engine break-in - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2002, 08:15 PM
E.T. divided by $ spent= Speed
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: NYS america's unwiped butt
Age: 35
Posts: 1,858
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Post engine break-in

I'm getting ready to drop in my new 350(literally last motor homemade-hoist broke). I'm hearing that to break in the cam your supposed to hold the car at 2000rpm for 15min. Whenever I've installed a cam befor I never did this and the other motors ran fine.Is this really nessisary on a hydraulic street cam??

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2002, 06:10 AM
New Member
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Cloquet ,MN.
Posts: 23
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post

Yes,and use plenty of cam break-in lube on all the valve-train pieces,change oil and filter after about 100 miles or so...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2002, 10:54 AM
F-1Rodder's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Seattle
Posts: 517
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post

The most critical issue is the cam lubrication. Use plenty of cam lube provided by the supplier or assembly lube. Really slop it on. Next, fill the engine with oil and get a pre-lube shaft that inserts in the distributor mounting and put an electric drill on the pre-luber and run it until you see oil coming out of your rocker arms on both sides. This will indicate that oil pressure is present throught the engine and that your pump is working. Re-install your distributor and start the engine. Be sure your rockers are not too tight. They should clatter a little at this point and run the engine for a half hour at 2000 rpm. Note that the cylinder walls are lubricated by crankshaft splash, so this is why you do not want to idle the motor, it needs to splash the rings. Watch your temperature and oil pressure. Now adjust your pre-load on your rocker arms to the desired load. Clean up the mess in your engine bay, put your valve covers on, change oil and change filter. Now drive it. Vary you engine speeds and do not let it idle a lot. Just a nice country drive. After you have 500 miles on it drive it like you have just stolen it.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2002, 04:41 PM
E.T. divided by $ spent= Speed
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: NYS america's unwiped butt
Age: 35
Posts: 1,858
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Post

When I installed cams befor I always soaked the lifters in oil, put cam lube on and primed the motor for 5min or so.Fired it and adjusted the lifters.Then changed the oil after 100,500 & 2000mi. But had never ran the motor at 2000R's for 30min. I always just let it idle wile i set timing and adjusted the air/fuel.On the rings I used to oil the cylindr bores.Smoked like hell for 5min. but seemed to work.?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2002, 05:45 PM
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Mopar tapered axle rear brake conversion
Last journal entry: What I'm doing now...
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,267
Wiki Edits: 49

Thanks: 0
Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Post

Next time read the break in procedures that come with your cam. Almost all manufacturers recommend running the cam at 1500 - 2000 RPM for 15-20 minutes at initial startup. This is the break in. If you don't follow their recommendations you may have premature lifter wear or even flatten a lobe on the cam. If you havenít had a problem so far, youíve been very lucky.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2002, 06:09 PM
F-1Rodder's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Seattle
Posts: 517
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post

Follow the mfr. recommendations. But if you are assembling a stock motor, the spring pressure is not usually as high as with a performance cam and may not be as critical. I read about a lot of guys that do it wrong and end up paying for another cam and more lifters.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:38 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.