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Old 04-16-2008, 12:04 AM
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Engine Build

Hey yall I'm new round here and had a few questions...

I have a 1970 Chevelle with a 350/350 Combo, The motor is the GMPP crate 290/350 HP. and after two years of questionable service the Rings have gone bad, also NINE months after I bought the Motor the Cam went flat(see where I'm goin?)

So now I plan to build my own motor, I have a solid block, and a good Set of Vortec heads, and I plan to build everything around that. I want to take the block out .030 over for a grand total of 355ci and run a 10:-10.5:1 CR and be able to spin it to 6000-6500 RPMS.

So my first question is, will the Comp Cams XR270hr grind cam work for the Vortecs? I have heard they will only take up to a .480 lift, will it be possible to machine them to work?

Also, are 882 or 824 heads anygood? and will either of these work for my build?

Thanks

Andrew

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Old 04-16-2008, 07:23 AM
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882 heads arent worth much, and no where close to a Vortec.
Any decent machine shop can clearence the valve guides so you can run your cam without issue, this is a common practice on vortec heads.
If this is a street engine, you will want to keep the compression in the 9:1 to 9.7:1 max unless you want to run race gas.
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Old 04-16-2008, 09:58 AM
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Do the Vortecs need to have the Self adjusting rockers? I have Comp Cams Cam Quest and it has a foot note saying it needs a special part for Selfadjusting Arms. Can I change that or am I stuck with 'em
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Old 04-16-2008, 10:07 AM
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No you you can tap those heads and put in screw in studs and guideplates its much stronger anyway 10:1 or more is a little much for iron heads get a kit 9.5:1
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Old 04-16-2008, 10:08 AM
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If you run a roller you should run a 270HR magnum and have the heads machined for the bigger springs
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Old 04-16-2008, 10:13 AM
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Yeah forget the 882's or 824's and go with the vortecs, you should be able to run 10:1 with those heads on premium gas. Flat top pistons with two small valve reliefs, decked to 0, and a decent .032 head gasket should bring you right into the range you need to achieve the 10:1. If you are going to be spending any time at all around 6500 rpm I would spend the extra money and get some nice 4340 forged rods, and make sure you have the entire assembly precision balanced and you should have a really nice setup. I also am a big fan of Gapless rings, so for an extra 100 bucks they are really worth it. Good Luck with the build, sounds like you are on the right track.
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Old 04-16-2008, 10:33 AM
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does anyone have any ideas along the lines of pistons? I lke the Keith Black Claimer series, but I dunno how well they will work
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Old 04-16-2008, 10:52 AM
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they work great if you plan to keep high rpm use though for a long period of time id think of going to forged
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Old 04-16-2008, 10:56 AM
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KB pistons will work fine. Pay close attention to the special top ring end gap requirements of these pistons. As long as you follow their specific directions you'll be fine.
find one with a 1.56" pin height spec and have the block "O decked" so the4 piston comes right to the top @ TDC.
stock GM Vortec heads will need valve train up grading to work with the cam you've chosen.
Spring seat dimensions, guide boss height , screw in rocker arm studs, guide plates all will need machining.
Summit sells upgraded high lift modified GM 062 vortecs.
RHS pro torker 906 vortec heads are a better choice.

Brodix IK200 is another very good entry level (Under $1200) cylinder head for your plans.

i would go a bit more on camshaft if you want power up to beyond 6000rpm.

Comp 8-432-8 CS XR282HR-10
Needs a high stall converter and a bit of rear gear.

882 and 624 heads are just as crappy or worse than the stock heads that came on your 350/290HP motor. Lets not go there.

Your stock GM rods (resized with new ARP bolts) and stock crank are fine.

Summit +.030 .010 .010 rebuild kit

Cool Summit Street/Strip Aluminum Heads

But GM 062 vortecs with proper valvetrain preparation will get the job done very well.
vortec beehive springs
more vortec stuff
440hp 350vortec

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 04-16-2008 at 11:21 AM.
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Old 04-16-2008, 11:13 AM
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I'd like to get new heads but my friend is giving me heads and a block for free so I want to reuse those.
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Old 04-16-2008, 11:22 AM
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I'd like to get new heads but my friend is giving me heads and a block for free so I want to reuse those.
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Old 04-16-2008, 11:25 AM
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double post please delete.
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Old 04-16-2008, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevyboy_0
I'd like to get new heads but my friend is giving me heads and a block for free so I want to reuse those.
If the vortecs are used, off a truck, check for cracks (magnaflux inspect) before machining.
The OEM L-31 350 trucks had common manifold coolant leak and overheating issues that often wrecked (over heated) the heads.
If they'll pass the mag test, you're good to go.
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Old 04-16-2008, 11:31 AM
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Thanks for everyones help and input. I'm only 18 and this is my first engine build.

By reusing the Rods what should I look for? I dunno how the rods are the motor spun a bearing, will I need to get new rods or just bearings?

Last edited by Chevyboy_0; 04-16-2008 at 12:14 PM.
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Old 04-16-2008, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevyboy_0
Thanks for everyones help and input. I'm only 18 and this is my first engine build.

By reusing the Rods what should I look for? I dunno how the rods are the motor spun a bearing, will I need to get new rods or just bearings?
Why is it everybody saves the best for last "the motor spun a bearing". This isn't just an aside event slightly worth the mention. A spun bearing means, depending on which bearing or bearings spun, the block is possibly damaged requiring expensive machine work to the main saddles and maybe replacement. Certainly the crank is damaged, not only on the journal of the spun bearing, but that junk circulates with the oil and has undoubtedly damaged other crank bearings and journals. If it was a rod bearing that spun, that rod is history and the others need to be looked at carefully by a trained eye for impending damage done to them as well. The cam bearings and cam journals probably also got a dose of chips.

The oil pump is probably toast, but the oil pump is the weak spot of the Vortec engine so getting that chunk of junk out of there is areal good idea. Minimalist oil pressure combined with energy saving oils and a bit of overheating and or a heavy foot are the cause of spun vortec bearings, which is a very common event.

I rather fear that this engine is likely to prove to be the proverbial Gift Horse, once you look in its mouth.

Bogie
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