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Old 09-05-2005, 04:59 PM
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engine building

Well i am new at this stuff, and this is my first project ever so I have a lot of questions. So I would appreciate all the help I can get.

I plan on building a 350, probably .030 over and I have some ideas in mind, but not sure if they will all match up right. I am thinking about a rebuild kit from sealed power with 9:35:1 compression ratio with 64cc heads, a edelbrock performer RPM intake (1500-6500 RPM RANGE), holley 670 street avenger carb, comp magnum cam with 230 duration 480 lift (2000-6000 RPM RANGE), comp magnum roller tip rockers, hooker super comp headers, HEI distributor, msd ignition, and as far as the heads go not real sure maybe camel humps with 2.02, 1.60 valves, or either the gm performance vortec heads, or some summit heads that are like the camel humps they say, not sure if all these parts will work good together, well my intake, heads, and cam, is what I'm not sure about. I already see about $3500 in the motor and don't want to spend any or much more. I am shooting for the 350-400 horsepower range, but don't want to have to run premium gas too exspensive.

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Old 09-05-2005, 07:33 PM
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9:1 compression, you will likely have to run premium
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Old 09-05-2005, 07:44 PM
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72chevy, your combination sounds pretty good. I would recommend going with more modern up to date heads rather than the old camel humps. While they are good heads, you are dealing with 40 year old technology. The newer designs will have better ports and more efficient comb. chambers. Keep your primary header size to 1 5/8" to 1 3/4" with the larger size used on a lighter vehicle with more gear. Your compression isn't out of line depending on the type of vehicle it is going in. I will assume a 72 C10. If you stay conservative with timing and have a good (low) rear gear, you should be fine with the cheaper grades of fuel. Efficient comb. chambers will help here as well as aluminum heads, if they are in your budget. Just my .02 Any other questions?
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Old 09-05-2005, 11:46 PM
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other engine questions

Thanks topfuel, yea i have a few more questions, do know anything about the summit heads, and is the cam I plan on using ok for the street? Well I guess I should ask, will I be able to run my air conditioning? Also how loppy will it be ya think? I really want kina a fast hittin cam. Oh an I plan on using either a powertrax locker or eaton posi with 3:73 gears and 12 bolt rearend.
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Old 09-06-2005, 02:39 PM
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You have your cart in front of your horse. Pick a set of heads and intake. Then pick a cam. You have picked a cam and haven't decided between 3 sets of heads yet.

Do you have a manual or auto transmission. .480 lift is going to put you on the edge of a torque convertor. The Comp XE268H is (.477 lift) does not require a convertor. On the other hand. The Perf/Rpm cam (.488 lift) does require a torque convertor. So if you have to buy a convertor. I wouldn not use a cam that is not really going to take advantage of the extra money you spent.

You can use the xe274 or even xe284 with a decent set of heads.
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Old 09-06-2005, 06:32 PM
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heads?

what type of heads do you prefer, and I was thnking about maybe a Comp magnum cam with 470" of lift instead of 480" and it doesnt require a torque converter. As far as my intake I have my mind made up on a Edelbrock Performer RPM.
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Old 09-06-2005, 06:50 PM
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I use Edelbrock heads cuz its the best I can afford. AFR heads are better but pricier. If you already have a carb. Choose a head that will work with it. Don't go buying a set of 220 cc runners for a 600 cfm carb. With your choice of cam 170 cc runners is plenty. It is my opinion that the XE cams are better than the Magnums. Don't shy away from buying a convertor. A B&M 2800 Holeshot is about 250 dollars. Worth every penny. You can get up into a .500 lift cam with one.
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Old 09-06-2005, 07:06 PM
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Engine

Thanks man, do you mean the comp extreme energy cams? and I forgot to tell you that I will probably have a 700R4 with a B&M rebuild kit, yea I thought I should prob use a stall to get a good launch off the line. My carb will be a holley street avenger 670, and I really hate to spend so much money on aluminum heads so I was thinking about the summit heads with 2.02, 1.60 valves and 165cc runners. I should prob say this truck is just going to be a toy to drive on weekends and sometimes during the week, I'm only 18 years old so this is a project for me.
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Old 09-06-2005, 07:28 PM
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nice project, i have a 71 im working on. lemi know if you want some good sites and info ihave fond on these trucks. good luck.
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Old 09-06-2005, 09:33 PM
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If you run the 700R4 trans make sure your transmission builder knows what he is doing and also have him setup the detent cable and shift points. I went through three 700R4's using different builders and just couldn't get one to hold up in my truck with only about 350HP. I quit wasting my money on the 700R4's and installed a built TH350 which has held up just fine. Many of my friends have had similar failures with the 700, to me it's a poor design. JMO
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Old 09-06-2005, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 72chevyC/10
Thanks topfuel, yea i have a few more questions, do know anything about the summit heads, and is the cam I plan on using ok for the street? Well I guess I should ask, will I be able to run my air conditioning? Also how loppy will it be ya think? I really want kina a fast hittin cam. Oh an I plan on using either a powertrax locker or eaton posi with 3:73 gears and 12 bolt rearend.
I am not really familiar with the Summit heads. Most of the engines I build use Dart, World, AFR, etc. heads.
Bracketeer was correct when he said the induction has to match first, then you choose a cam. For your application I would stick with a dual pattern, high lift moderate duration cam. The duration and lobe separation are the determining factors as far as idle quality and ability to run accessories. The higher lift will add torque.
If you decide to go with the 700R4, heed baddbobs advice. Have it built right and make sure you use and properly adjust the throttle valve cable. Don't be afraid of a moderate stall converter. It will deliver max performance for the dollar.
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