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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2009, 09:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sqzbox
When installing new lifter's, I've ALWAYS soaked the lifter's covered with oil prior to install. Does anybody still do that? I haven't heard it mentioned yet. Old theory was to fill the lifter's so they would have oil in them while waiting for pressure from the pump. I believe it was called "priming the lifter's". yes? no?
As far as firing it up to 2000rpm right away, I'm going to make darn sure my gauge is showing 40 or more lbs of pressure before I take it up that far!
These instructions are from Rhoads Lifters....
"Before installation, each Rhoads Lifter should be fully filled with oil. To fill with oil, completely submerge each lifter upright into a container of oil and compress the inner plunger with a pushrod or screwdriver until the plunger is driven to the bottom of the lifter. Hold several seconds and release slowly. Repeat several times until the lifter is fully filled. NOTE: Soaking lifters in oil will not fill them. Also, make sure to apply assembly lube to each cam lobe and lifter bottom."

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2009, 09:08 AM
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I kind of feel sorry for this guy. After all this, his gut's are going to be turning the first time he start's it! I think you need to sit down and make your own list while reading this thread of what you want to do and what procedure so you won't be confused trying to remember. It's easier to check off thing's in order than rely on memory!
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2009, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sqzbox
I kind of feel sorry for this guy. After all this, his gut's are going to be turning the first time he start's it!
Isn't that part of the excitement for initial start up?
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Old 10-28-2009, 09:14 AM
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Adrenalin is alway's better than re-regurgitation!
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Old 10-28-2009, 09:34 AM
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JMICHAELRE, There's a new thread started titled "fresh engine, low oil pressure" you might want to read. It'll really turn your stomach.
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Old 10-28-2009, 10:41 AM
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Thanks for all the good responses, I just picked up the crank and bearings and I crabbed two bottles of breakin oil, one for the inital run and one for the for the fresh oil right afterwards.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2009, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmichaelre
Thanks for all the good responses, I just picked up the crank and bearings and I crabbed two bottles of breakin oil, one for the inital run and one for the for the fresh oil right afterwards.
I'm sure you know this, but for the benefit of others reading this thread, all this monkey-motion break-in foolishness can be circumvented by using roller lifters. You just wash them with solvent, oil them, put them in, crank the motor and drive.
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Old 10-28-2009, 10:48 AM
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I'm not getting really paranoid on this one i've just had problems in the past. Two years ago I tore down an engine and only had money for bearings, rings, camshaft and timing chain. That motor gave me problems the whole time. I'll never just do just a rering job again. Going through all of this one I've had everything checked out and machined and I have more piece of mind that it'll work out. The only good thing I can say is with all the problems I had with the other one, it gave me a lot of hands on tuning and diagnosing problems and knowing what things should and shouldnt do when running correctly.
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Old 10-28-2009, 10:52 AM
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A roller setup would be sweet, but this project wouldn't fully utilize I don't think. Especially since I can't afford new heads right now. Though I have smaller heads, everything has been gone through and should be pretty reliable, but I do look forward to working on something down the road that uses a roller setup and is made for speed. But right now this is going into my 4x4 work horse.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2009, 11:02 AM
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Again, for others reading this, if you are just in the planning stages of a 350 or 383 Gen I build, for heaven's sake make plans to begin with a roller tappet block, such as the L31 5700 from a '96-'99 Chevy truck. You can, in most cases, re-use the stock lifters if you limit valve lift to around 0.525". If you use much more cam than that, you can pop the lifters out of their bores. But for a street or street/strip motor (+/- 6000 rpm's), it just makes sense to begin with a roller block.

In the past few months, I have seen 2 rebuildable short blocks on craigslist here in Phoenix for under 200 bucks, including lifters, dog bones and spider.
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Old 10-28-2009, 11:06 AM
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This truck is an 86, I thought I'd have more cost involved in putting a newer engine in. Is that the case or am I wrong? Also, I'm not using the computer at all and I'm not runnint a cat. I have straight full length dual exhaust on it with glaspacks.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2009, 11:14 AM
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I guess it depends on the depth of the build, but like I said, there were 2 short blocks for under 200 bucks. I've also seen long blocks less intake for around 400 bucks. This gets you the good heads (062 or 906). Of course, you have to be careful to magnaflux 'em for cracks, but you get the L31 heads.
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Old 10-28-2009, 11:17 AM
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I definitely think I'l go that route in the future. Is there a good place to read up on the newer stuff as far as ecm, sensors and such. All of that stuff seems pretty intimidating if you ask me.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2009, 11:24 AM
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I don't know squat about that stuff. I'm talking about an L31 with an Edelbrock RPM Vortec intake manifold and a 750 carb.
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Old 10-28-2009, 11:37 AM
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Oh I gotcha, guess I didnt realize it was as simple as that. If I come across a fuel injected motor would the heads still work with a carbureted manifold? I know someone with a 97 chevy 2500 that engine still starts, but the tranny went out. I'm sure I could get the whole thing pretty cheap.
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