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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2009, 11:49 AM
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roller blocks can be had from 87 up. trucks didn't always use roller lifters, but the blocks are cast to use em.
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2009, 11:53 AM
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Having experienced a flat-tappet cam failure during engine break-in was a real good education.
Post-failure, I had "decided" that a roller cam was the eay to go ... until I priced one out. Yikes! So I "re-decided" to try another flat-tappet cam ... and just break it in right this time. I mean after all ... flat-tappet cams have been around virtually forever, right?

So here are a few things that I (IMO) have learned ... the hard way.

1.) Shell "Rotella T" 15w40 no longer has sufficient levels of ZDDP ... probably due to the fact that many diesel engines now have catalytic convertors on them and ZDDP is poison to a convertor.

Valvoline is one mfr that does make a specific ZDDP additive. Add a full bottle for the first run. and then just an ounce or two with regular oil changes.

2.) "Priming the oil pump" is not sufficient. The phrase "It wil get instant oil pressure as soon as it starts" is complete hogwash! Pressure ... YES, but lubrication for pushrods and rocker arms ... definitely NO.

As someone else said, prelube the engine before firing it until you have oil coming out every pushrod. Make note of how long that takes ... even at 60 PSI. I had a conversation with an ag mechanic regarding pre-oiling, and he has built a pressurized reservoir that he uses, rather than mess around with a high-torque drill on an oil pump.

BTW ... no, your Black & Decker cordless drill won't spin that oil pump with 15w40 (or 30W) oil in the pan. I used a 3/8" air-powered drill ... which was JUST enough for the job.

3.) "Static -time" the engine to around 8 BTDC, and leave the dist just loose enough to move it by hand.

4.) IMMEDIATELY bring the engine up to 2500 RPM. DO NOT fiddle with carb and timing ajustments or idle the engine for ANY REASON. If it ain't right, shut it off and make it right.

5.) I'm sure I was in "overkill" mode, but I added the last 2 quarts of engine oil ... one quart on each side ... just before hitting the starter switch. I wanted oil up on the lifter valley, dripping down on the cam. Soaking wet.

The results of all of this were good, BTW. She's purring like a kitten now ... well maybe "roaring like a tiger" is a better description.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2009, 11:58 AM
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Thanks 66....good info....heres one for you guys since I"m going to start this thing in cold weather....I thought about not putting any regular in until right before the start and have it at room temperature or warmer before doing so.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2009, 12:00 PM
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sorry word missing was oil
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2009, 12:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmichaelre
Thanks 66....good info....heres one for you guys since I"m going to start this thing in cold weather....I thought about not putting any regular in until right before the start and have it at room temperature or warmer before doing so.
Not a bad idea at all. Cold, thick oil REALLY doesn't flow well at all.

What kind of temps do you mean by "cold weather"?
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2009, 12:06 PM
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Around here "Nebraska" you never know could be high 30s to high 40s or somewhere in between...I'm hoping it'll be closer to 50, but that never given here.
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Old 10-28-2009, 12:06 PM
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BTW TechInspector, that was a good tip on the cleaning of the anti-rust coating on the cam and lifters. I hadn't heard or thought about that one.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2009, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmichaelre
Oh I gotcha, guess I didnt realize it was as simple as that. If I come across a fuel injected motor would the heads still work with a carbureted manifold? I know someone with a 97 chevy 2500 that engine still starts, but the tranny went out. I'm sure I could get the whole thing pretty cheap.
Yep, just use the Vortec intake manifold of your choice.....
#7116 Edelbrock RPM Vortec for square bore carb.
#7104 Edelbrock RPM Vortec for spread bore carb. (Quadrajet)
#7516 Edelbrock RPM Vortec Air Gap for square bore carb.

Some of the heavier duty trucks/vans had 4-bolt main blocks. Rescue any pre-computer HEI from a boneyard and rebuild it, shimming the (gear to housing) clearance at +/- 0.010". There is no provision for a mechanical fuel pump, so an electric pump must be used. Here's a post I made recently on another thread about the fuel system.....

Run 1/2 inch line tank/cell to carb on a street/strip application. (3/8" line will work on a street motor).
Get this return style regulator.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAA-4309/

Mount a fuel filter close to the tank/cell where the supply line comes out. Immediately after the filter, mount the electric fuel pump of your choice. Immediately after the pump, mount the regulator. Run the supply line out of the pump and into one side of the regulator and out the other side of the regulator, then to another fuel filter in the engine bay and then on to the carburetor. Tee off at the carb inlet and install a fuel pressure gauge. Run a line out the bottom of the regulator as a fuel return line to the tank/cell. With the regulator mounted at the back of the car with the pump, it will only take a short piece of line to make the return line from regulator to tank. Scroll down to Figure 3B here to see the schematic....
http://go.mrgasket.com/pdf/4309.pdf
Adjust the regulator to 5 psi with motor running. Monitor fuel pressure as you clear the big end.

This will be easy on the pump because it will not have to push fuel "deadhead" against a restriction.
By the way, I always use the rubber off muffler hangers to mount the pump and use a short piece of quality fuel line hose just before the pump inlet and just after the pump outlet. This will isolate the pump and lines from vibrating against the pump mounts and transmitting a "droning" sound inside the car. This isn't so much a problem with a race-dedicated car, but on a street car or dual-purpose street/strip car, the droning will make you crazy pretty quickly. The black rubber muffler hangers I'm talking about look like they were cut from a tire, you can still see the white fabric cord in them, about 3/4 inch wide x 1 inch wide. Bolt or weld the hangers to the car, then bolt the pump to the hangers.

No modern 4-bbl needs more than 5 psi. It needs volume, but not excessive pressure which will overpower the needle and seat in the carb. Use a large needle/seat and large diameter line to facilitate volume and keep pressure at 5 psi.


Jim Rockford is right about '87-up cars using rollers, but the nice thing about the '96-'99 L31 motors from trucks is that many of the heavier duty ones used 4-bolt blocks and the fact that if you purchase at least a long block, you get the good L31 heads with it. It is said that the L31 heads will outflow any other production head ever produced by GM, including the double-hump heads. In my opinion, leaving the ports and valves alone and just putting a good 5-angle valve job on them and maybe cleaning up and blending the bowls a little will make as fine a set of heads as you could want on a street motor.

Last edited by techinspector1; 10-28-2009 at 12:40 PM.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2009, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
Yep, just use the Vortec intake manifold of your choice.....
#7116 Edelbrock RPM Vortec for square bore carb.
#7104 Edelbrock RPM Vortec for spread bore carb. (Quadrajet)
#7516 Edelbrock RPM Vortec Air Gap for square bore carb.

Some of the heavier duty trucks/vans had 4-bolt main blocks. Rescue any pre-computer HEI from a boneyard and rebuild it, shimming the (gear to housing) clearance at +/- 0.010". There is no provision for a mechanical fuel pump, so an electric pump must be used.

Jim Rockford is right about '87-up cars using rollers, but the nice thing about the '96-'99 L31 motors from trucks is that many of the heavier duty ones used 4-bolt blocks and the fact that if you purchase at least a long block, you get the good L31 heads with it.

If you get a good Vortec long block and rebuild it to a 383 there's no reason why you shouldn't be dancing on either side of the 500hp mark. And it'll cost you about $2500 to do it. Talk about a nice deal. Some decent port work and those heads are easily capable of over 500hp on a 383 with a cam that is relatively streetable.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2009, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmichaelre
Around here "Nebraska" you never know could be high 30s to high 40s or somewhere in between...I'm hoping it'll be closer to 50, but that never given here.
Nebraska must be a little like Alberta, then. It's been hovering around the 30 - 40 range here for the last week or so.

It would likely be best to have that thing indoors at closer to room temps if possible ... if for no other reason than having to mess around with the choke. Metal contracts when it's cold, too, but I guess it's not "sub-zero" temps that you'll be facing.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2009, 12:38 PM
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yeah 66 thats why i was talking about putting warm oil in it as far as the choke..thats one thing i know how to adjust to kick off right away
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2009, 12:42 PM
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How about plugging in the block heater to warm up that block a little?

I'm a little hesitant to suggest that, because one side (two cylinders specifically) will be quite a bit warmer than the rest.

Engine experts?
What do you think?
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2009, 12:53 PM
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A little foreplay might help warm it up!
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Old 10-28-2009, 01:02 PM
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Foreplay...lmao....
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2009, 01:06 PM
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yeah, me too. wiping the tear's right now!!!
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