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Engine Choices

2K views 18 replies 9 participants last post by  ZipZ28 
#1 ·
well I'm looking for some information and ideas on engine. At this moment i have two ideas for a engine for my 72 Chevelle.

The First is to buy a newer 6 Liter from a Chevy truck for about 400-600 bucks. This includes all the wiring and computer etc, but i believe that it is all shot because the truck was a total loss because it went for a swim in the dugout. I know that the motor is good because i know the guy that owned the truck. So because the computer and stuff is shot i was thinking to get the edelbrock conversion for the LS1 to make it a carb because it will fit on the 6 liter no problem and the matching cam to go along with it. From what i have read the stock engine made about 325hp and would like to keep it at about the same hp level.

The second is getting a 454 big block from a early 90's truck for about 700. Once again this motor is fuel injected ( God only knows where the computer and wiring harness is). The question for this one is can i put on any 454 intake to make it a carb. I believe that there is still a spot on this motor for a distributor( I have not seen this motor yet and just going on what was told to a friend of a friend of a friend). I would like to change the cam to try and get some more hp.

Right at this moment I'm feeling that the 6 Liter is the engine of my choice because i have latched on to a article that has done the same to the LS1 and the made the same numbers as stock injected motor. But on the other hand a 454 is a 454 and i know that big power can be made. Any one that has any ideas, suggestions, experience for these 2 ideas hearing them would be excellent. I need some others input before i put out the money.

Thanks, John
 
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#2 ·
As for the 454 you would have a peanut port engine and a computer cam that would work with a carb but combined would be a basic dog... The 6.0 ltr on the other hand with a carb setup is fast becoming an good option these days everywhere I read... I have an on going project of putting a 5.3 ltr in my 69 C10 but will be going all computer controlled but the carb setup is an option too... My vote is for the 6.0 ltr :thumbup:
 
#5 ·
A 454 BBC is a gas mileage pig. I'm still amazed how bad my mileage is just driving down the highway with no load. My 4000lb, 1970 c10 gets 8 to 9 mpg in the city and 11 to 12 on the highway with a 3.08 gear, th400, very mild rv roller cam, 2000 stall, no headers. With headers and a tighter shall the mpg should go up 1 or 2 mpg. Power is enough for 7.0 second 0-60, and high 14's at 96 mph.

Sure the 454 is powerful and can pull strong only using a 3.08 gear with a 3 speed automatic trans. But the new 6.0 liter with od trans can do the same if you use a 3.55 gear plus get 50% better mileage and do it in a much quieter.

I would go for the newer engine. BBC's are heavy and suck fuel like crazy.

You should get the complete engine and trans from a later model 6.0 truck. Spend the money now to get the complete engine and forget the incomplete engine. Auto recycle'rs sell them from fan to trans tail shaft complete with belts, accessories, and computer for around 2500. Then you will need another 500 to modify the factory wiring and a few more hundred for drive shaft mods and a speedometer change (need electrical speedometer for new OD trans).

The edelbrock kit for efi conversion to carb is also a pretty good idea. But efi is nice.
 
#6 ·
How deep was the water that the 6.0 truck was in? These are somewhat water proof (only to a certain extent) so don't count it out completely. I would say go with the fuel injection if you can. Soooo much better drivability than a carb (over the long term). So my say would be to stick with the 6.0 but stay fuel infected.

Steve :welcome:
 
#7 ·
Thanks for the ideas. From what I see i think that i'm going to go get that 6 liter and start with that. To be Honest I wasn't thinking about putting on fuel injection, but what would that take? I'm open to trying different things. Can i use the stock system and it just plugs in the Accel or edelbrock computer? i don't have any clue about fuel injection. But one for sure thing is the 6 liter sounds to be a good starting point. And my funds are not very large, but whose are?

Steve the truck was right in the water, but it didn't go in running it was shut off. They were trying to pull up some old equipment that was parked on the embankment and they used the truck as a place to hook the come-along to. It was wet (Blah blah blah) so the truck slid down the embankment and right in to the water. so i'm not to worried about the motor. Pull it apart and check everything and fix what is needed. The truck only had 85,000 KM so not to high.

Thanks again
John
 
#8 ·
you said 72 chevelle correct?
whats wrong with a 70's big block? isn't that whats its supposed to have? I say scrap both those ideas and put a real motor in it. the only computor part you will need is a 6AL box and I bet you can easily find a double pumper Holley for it. and by the way, 500+ horsepower is easily obtainable.
 
#9 ·
projectjohn said:
Thanks for the ideas. From what I see i think that i'm going to go get that 6 liter and start with that. To be Honest I wasn't thinking about putting on fuel injection, but what would that take? I'm open to trying different things. Can i use the stock system and it just plugs in the Accel or edelbrock computer? i don't have any clue about fuel injection. But one for sure thing is the 6 liter sounds to be a good starting point.

Thanks again
John
If you get either one" accel or edelbrock? the wiring should come with it as a kit. also you will need two fuel lines-feed & return! you can use the existing harness that come with the engine but there will be allot of wires you cannot use and you will need some help if you have never done this before? at least with the aftermarket systems they are easy to install and are fully programmable by you!
 
#10 ·
You can use the stock engine, od trans, and efi. The stock efi system can be used with a special wiring harness. The transmission also needs to be used with the stock computer. So by the time you spend money on aftermarket computers for the engine and transmission it will cost more money.

I would not use a late model engine that has been under water. Even the edlebrock conversion kit uses the stock ignition coil that could be bad from the water. Check the prices for ignition coils because they are most likely more than the cost for the used engine.

Also the OD trans will require an aftermarket computer to control it. (1000.00). If you get the entire package (engine, trans, and computer) then it will cost less money in the long run. But buy a dry engine.
 
#11 ·
John, Are you getting the complete truck or just the engine? I still say stick with the fuel injected engine. With gas prices as high as they are the FI will get much better gas millage. Just the turn key and the engine is up and running is enough for me to stick with the FI set up. I know that some will say you can have that with a carb, yes you can but more than likely not 2 years later with no carb work. If you can get the complete truck by all means stay FI, if you cant get all computers and all wire harness. Good luck

Steve :welcome:
 
#12 ·
Ok this is just me. I say get a carbed Big Block and a OD tranny, go with some fairly small gears, 3.08's or something.
Nothing against SBC love'em but a BBC... Besides this is a Chevelle a big heavy car.
Also because you asked I think this is specs on early 90's 454.
Compression Ratio 7.9 to 1 SAE Net Horsepower at RPM 230 @ 3600
SAE Net Torque (lb-ft) at RPM 385 @ 1600
7.4 Liter 255HP @ 4,000 rpm 405 Lb of torque @ 2400 rpm
 
#13 ·
I've had small block Chevy's since 1962 (except for one stock '67 396 SS Chevele) and soem have had great outpu. My last being a modified '70 LT! in a 70 Z-28. I now have a 468 inch BB in the same Z-28. The drawbacks: loud with 3-inch pipes; 7 mpg. On the plus side: loud sounds great and the powere is terrific. Do it right; go with the BB. If you don't your always gonna wish you did when that other guy pulls alongside with a car like yours but with a BB rumbling under the hood.
 
#14 ·
Well i went out to the junkyard and made the price with the guy of 600 for the complete truck (bumper to bumper). after that i scammed a different computer dropped the oil pulled the plugs checked the oil pressure, compression etc. and got it running in the yard ( could have drove it home) it runs like a top. the only thing that i hear is a little piston slap when it was cold, but that wont be a problem and had one bad coil. ( changed that out at the junkyard) so now that i have it at home i'll go into it a little deeper. going to be a shame to pull the motor out of the truck cause it is in really good condition. maybe part out what i have left and get some money back.

Now some other questions. I was looking at the gm website and found that the six liter is also in the ssr and that engine is making 390 horsepower and the one out of the truck makes 300 hp. What is the causing the difference in hp and can i make my truck motor put out 390? What would it take?

Just to let you know ronb i have enlisted the help of my dad who is a auto mechanic, but he is kinda out of the know cause he has been pushing paper running his own shop for about the last 10 years. hope we can figure it out.

Thanks for all the ideas
John
 
#15 ·
I know that a big block is a big block, but i want some thing that i can drive on a road trips and still turn some good numbers at the track. i saw a 2500 silverado at the track that was bone stock (other than a reprogram) making high 13 second runs consitently. I have a daily driver chevelle that has the 350 in it and it does good, but we can always do better. also have a 396 375hp put away, but it needs to be rebuilt. I cant afford to do that when i got the whole truck for only $600. and if i can push the 390 hp with it i will be happy.
 
#19 ·
Since you have the complete truck and have it running here's a suggestion or 2. Try starting it with the connector to the oil pressure sending unit disconnected. On some of the Gen 3 engines (maybe all??) if it loses oil pressure the engine will shut off or not start (might save alot of unnecessary searching for a problem when it won't start).

It probably has a vehicle anti theft system on it (the chip in the key). If it does you'll need to either have it edited out of the computer or you can get a VATS bypass module off ebay from Baker Electronics that just plugs into the harness. If you plan on putting headers on it you'll need to again either have the rear O2's removed from the computer, or get a set of O2 sims (Baker Electronics also has these, and FWIW I'm not associated in any way with Baker Electronics, LOL).
 
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