[dasyhard]

Originally Posted by topwrench

To my knowledge the dizzy gear should be brass,check it,i think thats where your problem is!

Aloha and thanks, you were correct and so were the others on this thread. I should have made this attempt first hand but I didn't until it was too late. I even emailed the tech at Comp Cams to ask if I needed a bronze gear and he quoted:

You wont have to have a bronze gear but you will need a iron
melonized dist gear. These are available from AC Delco for around $5.

Thanks



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[dasyhard]

These are the "crying" findings of the bottom half, OMG!:
1- crankshaft is scored #1&2 journal
2- con rod #1 nuts were not tightened
3-#1 crank journal burned (spun bearing)
4-#1 and #2 cyl piston skirt damage from hitting the crankshaft counterweights
5-cyl walls damaged
6-pistons damaged
7-valves damaged
8-lifter bores possibly out of round
9-damage back of cam geard and on block
10-cam bearings worn (2nd to last journal badly damaged)

Its off to see the wizard for a new BBC and trash this motor. My preference is a high compression, tunnel ram and a high lift roller cam. Any suggestions anyone?

@bigblockragtop....The 572 sure sounds awesome but with only 640hp which still is a lot of ponies though I'm still contemplating as previously mentioned buying the 496 11:5 to 1 compression w/AFR heads generating 725hp. I keep on looking at this video below and that 572 sure packs alot of punch.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ge6YvRdnJ0I

[dasyhard]

Originally Posted by dasyhard

These are the "crying" findings of the bottom half, OMG!:
1- crankshaft is scored #1&2 journal
2- con rod #1 nuts were not tightened
3-#1 crank journal burned (spun bearing)
4-#1 and #2 cyl piston skirt damage from hitting the crankshaft counterweights
5-cyl walls damaged
6-pistons damaged
7-valves damaged
8-lifter bores possibly out of round
9-damage back of cam geard and on block
10-cam bearings worn (2nd to last journal badly damaged)

Its off to see the wizard for a new BBC and trash this motor. My preference is a high compression, tunnel ram and a high lift roller cam. Any suggestions anyone?

@bigblockragtop....The 572 sure sounds awesome but with only 640hp which still is a lot of ponies though I'm still contemplating as previously mentioned buying the 496 11:5 to 1 compression w/AFR heads generating 725hp. I keep on looking at this video below and that 572 sure packs alot of punch.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ge6YvRdnJ0I

After reading thread "to tunnel ram or not to tunnel ram" on this site, I'd better check the stall size on my ford also, I don't think its enough to handle a high compression motor with a big cam. I know my gearing is 3:9 ring and pinion but I don't know if a posi trac is there.

[bigblockragtop]

That is just to sad, I am sorry to hear that. The 572 is a stout motor and the "race" version can be run on the street. I am not sure which magazine did it but I have heard of it being done. I think they just backed off on the timing a little. I think if I had the money I would think about it. It is easy enough to check for posi. Even with the power you had before you would not be able to move without spinning one tire so I doubt it's a non posi. With the 572 the torque numbers must be insane I have not looked them up but they have to be with all those cubes. What car is this going into and how heavy is it? You really need to think out what it is you will be doing most with the car, race track, cruising, to town and back with no cruising. All this matters you want to match the engine to what you do with the car.

[bigblockragtop]

Just watched the video. Which goes to what do you want to do with the car. He apparently has deep pockets for tires. That is the mellow 572.

[dasyhard]

Thanks, the block is going into my '34 ford which weighed around 2800lbs with the 454. I only plan on cruising which would probably make 600hp appropriate to attend Cruise Nights. But I'm still debating on which side to take. The CME long block 496 which has 2 high compression versions of their 496 or the 572 turn key versions.

[bigblockragtop]

I am all for pulling up to the pump but I love the smell of race gas.But at $7 a gallon I will have to smell 91 octane.I don't know which motor I would get, GM is a lot more expensive then typical engine builders but you know what you got. Millions of dollars in engineering to back it up, they don't want to do it right the second time. If you do get a high compression motor you can always cheat with water methanol injection, that's what I do with my procharger 8-1 at cruise 13-1 at wot weeeeeeeeeee. Hope you get what you want. That is a light car I am surprised you don't want an ls motor. All aluminum easy 500 hp for a reasonable price, fuel injected. Just dreamin here.

[dasyhard]

Oval or rectangular ports? Which is better? The long block I'm considering comes standard with oval ports and my tunnel ram has square ports. CME informed me that they can redo the heads to rectangular ports at an extra charge. But if the ovals are better than I'll just purchase another T/R with oval ports. My T/R is a 3 piece Weiand and when I called them they informed me that this T/R is one of first ones they produced back in the 70s. Since the rebuilt block is practically new per say, maybe I should go this route instead of keeping the old T/R. But I need to know which ports are the best in overall performance.

[bigblockragtop]

The higher the carb sits the higher the rpm If you plan on running 6-8000 rpm that is better power with square ports and tunnel ram. If you plan on running under 6000 rpm oval ports are better for the street. With the square ports the velocity of the are at low rpm will not give the torque that the oval ports would. I think someone with more knowledge than me could help you set up a tunnel ram for street driving. I am sure it works I have seen street cars with it. That Chevelle with the 572 had a single 4 barrel so... Like I said you have to decide what you do most with the car. Where will the engine live most above 6000rpm or below.

[dasyhard]

Thanks, since this car is a cruiser, it will live under the 6000rpm range so I guess the oval ports would be better suited for my application. The only reason why I wanted to stick with my old T/R is because I had it sand blasted inside out and powder coated to a nice silver finish. Attached is a photo of the T/R before I powder coated and changed the carbs.

[dasyhard]

Originally Posted by dasyhard

Thanks, since this car is a cruiser, it will live under the 6000rpm range so I guess the oval ports would be better suited for my application. The only reason why I wanted to stick with my old T/R is because I had it sand blasted inside out and powder coated to a nice silver finish. Attached is a photo of the T/R before I powder coated and changed the carbs.

Another issue of concern is my Turbo 400 3 speed trans. Will it be able to handle 725hp and a 3500 stall converter?

[bigblockragtop]

Turbo 400's are tough tranny's but I am no expert. I run a stock zf6 speed and don't want to jinks myself but so far so good. Was the tranny rebuilt you could ask the builder. The worst that could happen is it blows which is not near as expensive as a motor. If it's not rebuilt maybe have it freshened up by someone who can build it to handle the power. There are a lot of trannys aftermarket out there that are reasonable even with overdrives. My dream if my tranny ever went was to get an auto 6 sspeed with paddle shifter. That tunnel ram is a thing of beauty. I am not sure about sandblasting the inside though. From what I have heard and read you do not want to smooth out the runners on the heads or intake, like I said I am no pro, just like to listen to the pros. They say it causes the gas to run down the runner walls instead of evaporating quickly and can hurt performance. You can ask the engine builder if he can somehow use it with your build or just hold onto it for another day or toy.

[dasyhard]

Thanks for the info, besides overhauling the trans, the whole drive train will be either replaced or refurbished and I've decided to go the cheaper route by sending my 454 block which I think is serviceable to a local machine shop to have it bored to a 496. And purchase new AFR heads with 13:1 compression dome pistons to include a new crankshaft and other components that will balance the whole motor. I don't want to come across this malfunction miserys again. I'm having a very reputable machine shop do the work and they have a warranty period of 1 year.

[F-BIRD'88]

I thought you said this was a cruiser. No shop is going to warranty a 13:1 cr motor that got run on pump gas.

10:1 is good for 92 octane unleaded.

[dasyhard]

Aloha Sir,

It's always great to read your input but the cam you suggested failed and I mean in terms of the installation process, not your fault. I knew sooner or later you were going to comment of my post the way things have been going for me and what my crazy plans are. Yes this motor is a cruiser and I plan to run race gas mixed with 92 octane. This is my wish list for now but I want to be on the safe side too with no heartbreaks long term. By the same token, I want high compression with a large roller cam, even larger than the one you recommended. I know the owner of the machine shop because he already made a 540 for my chevy so he guarantees his work providing I don't F/U. I just have to think in terms of consequences with high compression ratios from now till I deliver my block next week. Thanks for your continous feedback throughout my ordeal.