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Old 03-22-2002, 11:53 PM
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Question Engine dosen't seem to have the low rpm grunt the old one had

Ok, new engine. 350 chevy with about 9.5:1 compression, preformer intake and stock q-jet carb, with headers. the cam mild. It is said to be a RV cam. I'll try and find the specs on it soon.

I'm thinking my problem is in timing? the engine has a new HEI distributor on it, that might have a differt advance curve on it. the distributors advance was tested at the factory at. 14deg. @2200rpm and 10deg. at 11" vacuum. total 24@2200. the inital is set around 6-8deg. I think (it moved a 1deg.back and forth at Idle).
does the timeing seem right? It just dosent' seem to have the same pickup that the old one did untill the Rpm's clime high. The stock engine would toss me back in the seat pretty good when I punched it at a stoplight.

Should I advance the timming a bit and try it, and see if detonation occures? should I use the lighter advance springs given with the HEI unit? should I use the stiffer one's with more initial timing? <img src="confused.gif" border="0">

[ March 23, 2002: Message edited by: BadBowTie ]</p>

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Old 03-23-2002, 05:27 AM
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What's up BowTie, just that darn Ford guy guy again. Only thing I can say is I did take a peak at some old Camaro specs I have (yes I've owned Chevys too) and most base timing is around 8BTC. But from 1971 - 1973 the high output 350's call for 12BTC with a points system and auto trans. My Mustang factory spec is only 6BTC but with modifications I've made she runs great at 12BTC. If you play around with your timing just keep track of the changes, go 2 deg. at a time, and remember you can always go back as long as you keep track. Also make sure you're vacuum line to distributor is good and you're getting vacuum off idle. Sounds stupid but I actually forgot to hook mine back up once and was driving around wondering wy my car wasn't taking off right. Makes a big diff. not getting that extra advance off idle on moderate accelleration. Good-Luck!
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Old 03-23-2002, 08:21 PM
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well, timing seems to be the problem. my engine was acting retarded before(hehehe timing joke) but since I advanced it some it has helped. I'll keep working at it till it's right on. boy it's intresting to feel the new power band of this engine. once it hits 3000 you can feel the power come on strong. (old one had a constant acceleration)
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Old 03-24-2002, 06:25 AM
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Hi again BowTie, that's exactly why setting up your rear end is so critical. Lets say you have a radical cam that kicks in at about 3,500RPM. If your car doesn't reach 3,500RPM 'till you're doing 35MPH from 0 to 35MPH you're waiting for that powerband. Now go to a higher gearset in the back and you hit 3,500RPM at 20MPH in first, you just reached you're powerband quicker. These are just random numbers but you can see my point. Once you know where your engines power is you can use your rear end gearing to get it there.
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Old 03-24-2002, 07:59 PM
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the cam I have makes power just above idle. I see how you could have been confused with the power coming in at 3000.

With the timming set better @about 12deg. BTDC. the engine is very strong at low rpm's now! I just can feel an increse in power once it hits around 3000, not too big of one but enough to feel it.

This engine will cherp the 9" wide tires a bit with a stock auto trans when I punch it at a stoplight. Now all I need to do is rebuild the trans, put a shiftkit and a higher stall speed converter in it; and then watch out.
This car will never be a real dragracer, but enough to blow away any ricerockets that pull up next to it at a stop light.

Thanks again for all the help!
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Old 03-25-2002, 03:52 AM
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Was just using made up numbers, but you see what I mean. Glad to here she's running good.
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