Engine Hard To Start - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2007, 12:10 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Germanton, NC
Age: 76
Posts: 18
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Engine Hard To Start

My engine is Goodwrench 350. It is a replacement engine for models 1970 thur 1980 Chev. It has 260 HP. The engine starts very well when cold and even hot if it is started back within 2 to 3 minutes. If the car sits longer the engine will turn over 8 to 10 times before it will start. It always starts. I have been told this problem is called heat soak but I don't know. I have a 650 cfm Edelbrock carburator on it. I am using a 3/8 spacer under the carb. The manifold is a Holley Street Dominator, low rise dual plane. It has the EGR valve on it which I have blocked off. Would a thickner spacer under the carb. help? I don't know just guessing. The car has been like this for about 2 years and the engine has about 20,000 miles on it. I have had this problem every since day one. I have also moved the timing around but this does not seem to help. To begin with I am less than a shade tree mechanic. Any help on this problem would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2007, 12:34 PM
Jmark's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: phoenix
Age: 61
Posts: 4,808
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Heat soak is common and can be a real pain to overcome. My first suggestion is to lower the float level in the carb by about 1/16 inch. One of the causes is when the fuel in the carb gets hot, it expands a little and dribbles over into the nozzles and into the engine. Lowering the fuel level will give you a little more room for expansion before it spills over.

Other considerations are way too much heat causing the fuel to actually boil and spill over into the nozzles and into the engine. With your setup, I don't think this will be the main issue.

Fuel lines that are close to a real hot source will cause hot soak problems too. The fuel in the pump/line will expand and push more fuel into the carb, again, spilling over into the nozzles.

Try the float lowering first and see how it does. If it does not help, let us know and we'll suggest some other things.


Mark
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2007, 01:19 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 725
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Have you tried varying your starting routine? Maybe with your particular combo you have to hold the gas pedal to the floor to start it. Maybe you have to pump the gas once or maybe twice for it to start. I'm basically pretty cheap and lazy, so if all it took for my car to start would be for me to hold the pedal to the floor that's what I'd do. On my personal toy if I touch the gas with a hot engine it starts hard. If I leave the pedal alone it's starts up hot on the first or second crank.That's less expensive and easier than making adjustments and replacing parts. Not that there's anything wrong with that if you have the time and money.

Last edited by ernkazern; 11-02-2007 at 06:52 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2007, 01:54 PM
F&J F&J is offline
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: 32 Ford cabriolet conversion/windshield
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Connecticut
Age: 62
Posts: 1,571
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
I'd do the float lower like Jmark said. I've seen that there are many complaints on the Edelbrocks being set too high right out of the box.

I bought a near new looking one and it was too high; I assume whomever bought it new had replaced it due to it "not being a good carb". It's been too long to remember, but I think I used an old Motors manual from the 1960s to find a car that had the old AFB (which is what an Edelbrock is cloned from) and used the float specs on the one that had the "lowest" setting....and I think I should have gone a little lower. Mine originally would flood-out & stall if I parked it on a steep sidehill. (like a ditch on the side of the road)
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2007, 08:42 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Germanton, NC
Age: 76
Posts: 18
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks Mark, I will try lowering the float this weekend. I moved the gas line away from the engine last week and this did not seem to help. I have also try every combination there is trying to start the engine but nothing seems to work. The float might be the problem. It seems to me that it is harder to start when I park it on a hill. I will post the results after I lower the float. Thanks again.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2007, 08:09 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Germanton, NC
Age: 76
Posts: 18
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I lowered the floats almost 1/4 inch this weekend. I could not see any inprovement in the starting. The car still runs and performs well with the lower floats. Would an inch spacer under the carb. help? Also would a different intake help? Thanks
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2007, 08:34 AM
F-BIRD'88's Avatar
Yada Yada Yada
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 9,034
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 3
Thanked 359 Times in 355 Posts
Because the fuel is held within the carb body AFB carbs tend to be sensative to heat soak.

Some things that will reduce the carb body temp and help a lot.
Install a wooden carb spacer (Edelbrock). Wood is a very good heat isolator.
Install a heat isolator gasket kit on the mechanical fuel pump (Seals-it)
move the fuel lines and or wrap them to isolate from heat.
Remove the intake manifold and block off one or both of the exhaust heat riser passages with a metal shim on the intake gasket. I usually block one side and restrict the other side. These passages were designed for a cast iron manifold. A aluminum manifold heats up a lot faster only needing a little or no exhaust flow thru the under plenum heat passage.

Use a fuel pressure regulator to limit the fuel pressure to 5- 6PSI max. Any more is too much. Readjust the float height.
If the car is hot, open the throttle while cranking to clear the over rich fuel vapours in the manifold. Do not pump the throttle.

Seals-It
Edelbrock wood carb spacers

If you lower the float height setting too much you get fuel starvation at WOT at high rpm. regulating the fuel pressure to 5-6PSi is key.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 11-07-2007, 03:36 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Germanton, NC
Age: 76
Posts: 18
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks for the information. I will try these. Thanks again.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
setting points on sb chevy frackster66 Electrical 23 01-07-2014 05:50 PM
Starter won't start and fuel pump won't pump after engine reinstall Porschev Electrical 26 02-16-2007 04:43 PM
start my engine outside my car? nitsud08 Hotrodding Basics 13 06-14-2005 11:55 PM
Help! engine won't start Jeep'n Engine 9 11-13-2003 08:39 AM
how to start a sitting engine pete379 Engine 9 07-08-2003 01:07 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:58 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.