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Old 09-25-2008, 07:09 PM
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Engine Masters Critique my 383 SBC Build

Well....actually its a 385 since its 0.040 over. Looking to run on pump gas. Maybe as low as 87 octane. This is for a street car. It may see the track once or twice in its life....maybe.

1987 caprice, 200-4R tranny, .500 boost valve, billet servo, 5500rpm shift governor. Right now it has a 9" 3000 stall converter(custom built Edge racing converters). I might tighten the stall to 2000-2500rpm. It is a lockup converter, Tranny cooler. 3.90 posi rear end. Approx 4000lbs

-Gen I SBC, 4-bolt splayed mains, 1 piece rear main seal, OE-Roller block, 0.040" Bore, 0.020 deck clearance.
-Canfield Aluminum 195cc, 65cc CNC chamber, 2.055/1.60
-1.6 Ratio Aluminum roller rockers
-0.041" thick Felpro Permatorque MLS head gasket 4.166" bore
-Cast steel 383 stroker crank. 3.750 stroke
-5.7" I-beam rods
-SRP Forged flat top pistons, -5cc dome, 1.425 compression distance, approx 10.5 static compression ratio, 8.13 dynamic compression ratio
-Balanced rotating assembly (External balance)
-Comp Magnum Hyd Roller 286HR cam, 230/230 dur@50, .596/.596 lift with 1.6 rocker. 110LSA, 106 intake centerline, approx power range 2500-6000.
-Edelbrock Performer RPM Q-jet with 1" 4 hole spacer. (dual plane intake)
-Cliffs Performance built Q-jet 780cfm, Heat insulating gaskets.
-1 3/4 ceramic coated headers (long tube)
-2.5" inlet/outlet 2-chamber Flowmasters
-2.5" Dual exhaust with X-pipe
-Spectre performance Dual cold air intake (carb hat with two 4" air inlets, draws cool air from front of car and traps hot air out of intake.
-Water pump fan delete. Electric fans on 4 core radiator.
-Standard flow oil pump with Milodon 7 Quart oil pan and windage tray.
-Still undecided Gear drive timing or just a double roller.
-FBO systems Built HEI distributor with MSD 6-AL ignition box (multi-spark) with 5800rpm rev limiter chip.
-Oil cooler with filter relocation kit (Dual large filters) Makes it about a 9 quart oil system.

I think I covered everything. I might have forgotten something. Let me know what you think. I was contemplating a 496 stroker but dont want to have to stop at each gas station I see and make the fat oil tycoons that much richer. Plus all of my current accessories with work with another small block.
Think i might need a vacuum resivoir or pump with that cam?

I think this build is gonna be a tire shredder!

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Old 09-25-2008, 07:17 PM
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Use a double roller timing set, but make sure you use one that has the needed clearence. If it contacts the upper oil galley`s above the cam and you run it you`ll be talking of the engine in the past tense. I like the package, looks good to me. I don`t think you`ll need a vacuum res.
It should be a nasty street machine. If the piston to deck clearence is .020, I would use a thinner head gasket to get a better quench action.
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Old 09-25-2008, 07:28 PM
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X2 gear drives on the street are for posers. The only suggestion I would have made is to build a 406" for the same money. Yes, 400" blocks are getting hard to find, but you are leaving 30hp on the table.

thnx, jack vines
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Old 09-25-2008, 07:39 PM
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Yeah I was leaning towards the double roller. A buddy of mine suggested gear drive but Ive never used one. I have always used a plain old double roller. Yea I think I will dial in the quench more. What do you think for a gasket thickness? Maybe I should decrease deck height a little. Where would you all suggest the deck height and gasket thickness be for optimal quench?

Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleVision
Use a double roller timing set, but make sure you use one that has the needed clearence. If it contacts the upper oil galley`s above the cam and you run it you`ll be talking of the engine in the past tense. I like the package, looks good to me. I don`t think you`ll need a vacuum res.
It should be a nasty street machine. If the piston to deck clearence is .020, I would use a thinner head gasket to get a better quench action.
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Old 09-25-2008, 07:40 PM
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Aside from some of your parts being a bit more "top-shelf", it's VERY similar specs (my lift is a bit less and dur.222/.234) to my 406 (in a '86 caprice/700r4/3.08). I like your taste and wish I'd have had your budget to have worked with. I'd say you indeed have a nice tourqey (torquey?) mill there, and still operable on pumpgas. Should run out very well. I'd guess it would be a real monster from about 2400,2500 thru about 5800 to maybe 6000, and taper-off from there. Even with a 2500 stall it should launch plenty hard, and that 3.90:1 gearset should be a great "all-around" ratio with being coupled to the od trans with lockup. From experience, I can tell you the lockup will be useless below about 2400 rpm, as any cruise/light-load situation less than that you'll be "lugging it". Does sound as though you've chosen a well-rounded package in MY opinion. -Jim
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Old 09-25-2008, 07:43 PM
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That was gonna be my original route. Finding a 400 block sucks. I want roller valve train...thats almost an extra 1000bucks for retrofit. I already have the 350 roller engine I scored from a police interceptor for $50 bucks complete. Its been rebuilt with a mild combo and in the car right now. Gettin ready to pull it and send it to the machine shop. The 400 wouldnt be quite as much of a budget build to get it where I want it. Thanks for the suggestion though.

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Originally Posted by Packard V8
X2 gear drives on the street are for posers. The only suggestion I would have made is to build a 406" for the same money. Yes, 400" blocks are getting hard to find, but you are leaving 30hp on the table.

thnx, jack vines
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Old 09-25-2008, 07:45 PM
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Here is a dyno program pic of the combo without dialing in the quench we just spoke about. Hopefully this works. Ive never attached a pic on here before. This is SAE corrected.

Maybe I should go 0 deck and a 0.039 gasket.
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File Type: bmp SBC385-Dyno-SAE1.bmp (298.6 KB, 311 views)
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Old 09-25-2008, 07:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 973kgt
Here is a dyno program pic of the combo without dialing in the quench we just spoke about. Hopefully this works. Ive never attached a pic on here before. This is SAE corrected.

Maybe I should go 0 deck and a 0.039 gasket.
Be cheaper to keep the 0.020" piston deck height and use a GM 10105117 composition gasket, 0.028" compressed.
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Old 09-25-2008, 08:28 PM
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Nice combo indeed, I agree that you should have torque by the bucket.

I especially like the induction; you probably paid a premium for the built Q-jet, and the Performer RPM Q-jet is a few bucks over the square bore version, but it will likely treat you right and hey - it's different. And cold air plumbing too, nice touch.
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Old 09-25-2008, 10:00 PM
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The machine shop is doin all the block prep work for free since they owe me some favors. So i guess in order to get the optimal quench which i think is 0.039 the best thing to do would be 0 deck the block and use a 0.039 compressed gasket right? Is there going to be a big diff between a 0.048 quench and a 0.039?
I got one shot at this so I wanna do it right.

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Originally Posted by techinspector1
Be cheaper to keep the 0.020" piston deck height and use a GM 10105117 composition gasket, 0.028" compressed.
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Old 09-25-2008, 10:02 PM
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Thanks, torque is what im after with this heavy pig of a car. Yea the Q-jet setup wasnt cheap but I believe will work very well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rustydawg
Nice combo indeed, I agree that you should have torque by the bucket.

I especially like the induction; you probably paid a premium for the built Q-jet, and the Performer RPM Q-jet is a few bucks over the square bore version, but it will likely treat you right and hey - it's different. And cold air plumbing too, nice touch.
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Old 09-27-2008, 11:24 PM
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You think the cam is good or should I go with an Xtreme energy cam like the XR282hr or the XR288hr?
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Old 09-28-2008, 12:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 973kgt
The machine shop is doin all the block prep work for free since they owe me some favors. So i guess in order to get the optimal quench which i think is 0.039 the best thing to do would be 0 deck the block and use a 0.039 compressed gasket right? Is there going to be a big diff between a 0.048 quench and a 0.039?
I got one shot at this so I wanna do it right.
Well, in the end, the important thing is to get what you want as long as it works well with other components. In other words, you have to have a warm, fuzzy feeling about the whole thing. So, if it makes you feel better to cut the decks, then go ahead. They're probably not square with the main bearing bores anyway.
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Old 09-28-2008, 11:59 AM
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Your engine requires a 106* LSA lobe separation angle.
At 110* you are throwing 20 lb/ft away, something you cannot afford to do with a 5800 rpm limit.
Run the existing stall to see what you need.... probably a true 3000.
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Old 09-28-2008, 12:05 PM
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I might also recommend a Wieand Air Strike because it has a true divided plenum compared to the Edel Air Gap.

For exhaust I would definitely look into a 4-2-1 header set up. It is worth another 20+ in the midrange.
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