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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 10-23-2007, 06:40 PM
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Engine Mount Advice

Hi,

I'm in the process of installing a Small Block Chev Engine into a J3 Bedford Truck (a long ago defunct British manufacturer). This transplant has been done before so I have an aftermarket front engine mount solution that makes use of the factory mounting point on the front cross member.

But this front cross member mount point was always designed to be used with an engine that has been coupled to the standard 4 speed Bedford transmission that featured additional mounts on either side of the bell housing to a cross member. These bell housing mounts provided the necessary resistance to the engine's natural desire to twist around the crankshaft's axis..

I, however, am using a TH400 transmission which only has a small mounting point right in the middle, at the back and consequently I'm concerned that the combination of the front mount and the transmission mount arent going to provide the necessary stability for the engine.. I have no concerns about the weight being adequately supported.

Some photos might help give you the picture (questions follow):







I am considering adding a brace to the engine, from the left hand head down to the chassis rail with rubber bushings (much like the ends of a shock absorber) at each end. There's are three bolt holes in the end of the head for mounting pulley assemblies etc that I dont need. Would it be OK to brace the engine from the head? It wont be weight bearing, just taking up the worst of the twist that the front mount and the transmission mount dont cope with.

Does anyone have any thoughts? Any help, ideas or concerns much appreciated.


Cheers, Duncan

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Old 10-23-2007, 07:04 PM
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I would do away with that cantilevered front mount that you have and come off the side frame rails with a traditional side mount. That setup just doesn't look right IMO.

Vince
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Old 10-23-2007, 07:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 302 Z28
I would do away with that cantilevered front mount that you have and come off the side frame rails with a traditional side mount. That setup just doesn't look right IMO.

Vince

Hi,

That would mean fabricating up mounts?.. and I'm not entirely sure my skill level is up there yet.. Would that be a difficult process? I'd need to ensure the engine is at the right level etc..

Are there some kind of generic kits that would make this easier?

Thanks!

Dunc.
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Old 10-23-2007, 07:12 PM
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The ideal method would be to fabricate an additional cross member under the front of the oil pan and then have side engine mounts come off it like a traditional car. A cross member could be fabricated from square tubing.

Vince
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Old 10-23-2007, 07:14 PM
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I just had another look at the chassis and on the right in the place where the side mount would have to go is the steering box.. I cant put a side mount there . I may be stuck with the cantilevered mount..

Here's the same model truck with the original engine in place.. you can see how the front mount works for that:



Dunc
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Old 10-23-2007, 07:33 PM
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Hi Duncan,
I don't see a problem with
what your trying to do, I/we
over here have been using them
for years, (heads as an anchoring point)
we put a bolt in with a length of chain on
the head & bolted the other end to the frame to
control the torque rolling of the engine.
Good luck,
rich
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Old 10-23-2007, 07:51 PM
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Ugh.
That steering box is going to cause issues, alright.
Does anyone make a RH drive Rack and Pinion that might fit?

TransDapt makes a few "universal swap" engine (and transmission) mounts.

Maybe poke around in their catalog, and see if that gives you any ideas.
They have a tubular cross-member style that would surely provide the basics ... it's just a matter of getting creative and having to fab up a way to hang it on that steering box side.

Could you take a few more pictures from the front and RH sides?

The last idea that I might suggest is to fab up some "outriggers" using rectangular tubing, and run that over to the frame on the "torque" side at least ... if not both.

That SBC looks stock, and I doubt that you plan on driving this truck "like you stole it" but if it was 400+ HP or something ... I would have some frame stiffening suggestions. It looks like a long way between that front and second cross-member?
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Old 10-23-2007, 07:51 PM
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Could you possibly give us a shot of the right side frame rail with the steering box?

Vince
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Old 10-23-2007, 08:01 PM
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Steering Box Photos

Sure.. 2 shots of the steering box..



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Old 10-23-2007, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 66GMC
Could you take a few more pictures from the front and RH sides?

The last idea that I might suggest is to fab up some "outriggers" using rectangular tubing, and run that over to the frame on the "torque" side at least ... if not both.

That SBC looks stock, and I doubt that you plan on driving this truck "like you stole it" but if it was 400+ HP or something ... I would have some frame stiffening suggestions. It looks like a long way between that front and second cross-member?
The gap between the first and second cross members is 40 inches (the second cross member provides the original bell housing mount points

Thanks, I'll check those links out and the outrigger idea is also a good idea.. perhaps combined with the gusset down from the head to frame rail it'll be enough.

The SBC is a reasonably stock 383:

Dart Hi-Flow cylinder heads
ARP Head Kit. Fully Balanced,
Edelbrock intake, Eagle Conrods
600 HP rated,Eagle Crankshaft, Romac Balancer
Rollmaster Timing Chain & Gear Set fitted.
Torque Grind Camshaft.
9.7:1 Compression Speed pro Pistons

The truck is never going to be carrying any significant load.. nor is it going to be doing burnouts or anything
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Old 10-23-2007, 08:40 PM
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Yep the steering box is an issue. Throw in some headers and it really gets complicated. Are you going to fab some headers or buy some off the shelf. If you are going to use some off the shelf that will pretty much dictate how you will fab up the engine mount on the right side.

Vince
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Old 10-23-2007, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 302 Z28
Yep the steering box is an issue. Throw in some headers and it really gets complicated. Are you going to fab some headers or buy some off the shelf. If you are going to use some off the shelf that will pretty much dictate how you will fab up the engine mount on the right side.

Vince
I have off the shelf headers that suit.. thanks for the warning on the headers, I probably would have forgotten to consider them when fabricating something

Cheers, Duncan
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Old 10-23-2007, 08:52 PM
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It's getting late over here and I have to work tomorrow. I will check back tomorrow morning.

Vince
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Old 10-23-2007, 09:26 PM
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Engine mount advice

Here's a thought...just forward of the oil pan sump, tie a yoke type crossmember ( maybe 1 1/4" dia. round tube )to the frame rails with the dropped part of the yoke angled toward the front. Make up a 1/4" plate that will bolt up to the stock Chevy mount bosses on the block. Make the plate long enough to bolt a stock motor mount to it using the rear boss to accept the front bolt in the motor mount and drill 2 holes in the plate for the back 2 motor mount holes. That would move the stock mount back 3'' or more. Next put a piece of tubing on the cross bolt in the motor mount. Adjust the angle of the yoke so it is under the motor mount and weld a piece of tubing between the yoke and the mount tube. A second piece of tubing or a gusset should make it sound enough. Try to keep the spot where the yoke is attached to the frame as close to the center line of the stock mount as you can. Hope this helps in some way.

Youngster
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Old 10-23-2007, 09:57 PM
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Look at this thing! That happens to be a motor plate for an Eagle Sprint chassis..they are fairly easy to make your own from 0.120 plate..they bolt in between the block and the bellhousing and you them bolt the motor plate to the chassis..one can use a rubber type insulator n the mounting..Doing this would replicate the original mounting system in that truck..I would continue to use the rear mount for the trans..

Sam
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