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Old 12-23-2008, 04:23 PM
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Engine movement limiter f to r

When you guys use mid plate and front plates where do you put the 2 parallel to crankshaft, engine movement limiters?

I am mocking up now for .093 moly plates going down low enough from the motor mout hole bosses, on a KB hemi, to run heim jointed 3/8 inch moly tubes forward to attach directly to the front k member.

Sound right or should I go larger moly?

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Old 12-23-2008, 06:13 PM
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Way lager plates. Like 1/4 aluminum or 3/8 steel. No forward to backward limiting devices needed.
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Old 12-23-2008, 06:21 PM
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Unless it is a dragster I use a .090" steel midplate and 1/4" front plate. On a dragster you use a 1/4" midplate also.

All of the engine limiters I have made in the past are 1/2" .058 CM tubing with R&L 3/8" tube ends and I try to attach them to the engine mounting bosses as level as possible, as far as front or rear direction I install them where they will be out of the way when servicing anything and out of the way of the diaper.

I have always tried to get customers to install them, you have to figure when a fast car leaves the starting line you are trying to move about 800 pounds of engine and trans instantly.
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Old 12-23-2008, 06:43 PM
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I am going straight down from the stock mtr mt bosses, under the oil pump on drivers side and about level with the oil pan rail, to get a 100% straight shot forward to the side/bottom of the K frame. I am using r&L heims, so one step up in cm tube size to .5 won't be a problem. I am going to stud/nut the plates on the block.

This to keep the engine/trans combo from trying to stay, while I am trying to go... ...and also helps the man trans shift more better.

My front plate is .375 AL and rear plate is .093-5 CM. The heim joints will be real close to directly below the roll cage front bar frame attachments just inboard so the tie up, should be real solid. Further more, my fabbed poly trans mount ties in not only to the side frame rails also but goes back to the ladder bars....with heims for adjustment. (I use it for a towel rack, in the winter, when the trans is out. Dual purpose. )

When we scale the car, the more adjustment the better, to get the weight ratios f/b & s/s correct.

Last edited by OHD; 12-23-2008 at 07:01 PM.
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Old 12-23-2008, 06:56 PM
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"I have always tried to get customers to install them, you have to figure when a fast car leaves the starting line you are trying to move about 800 pounds of engine and trans instantly."

Not when they are mostly Aluminum, titanium, and and magnesium.. closer to 6-640.......
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Old 12-23-2008, 08:16 PM
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That should work, Locktight the bolts on the block or they will come loose. I have chased that issue on every car I have had or worked on in the past 15 years unless it is a dragster and they are from the rear of the trans to the third member on a hard tail or from the trans to the drive shaft loop on a suspended car.

The last dragster I had the PO was not up on keeping an eye on the bolts and the midplate was broken as well as the upper mounts when I bought the car.
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Old 12-24-2008, 05:19 AM
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I 272 red locktite the studs to hold them in the block and use real small head 12 pt aircraft lock nuts on them, to hold the stuff together.

Sometimes the little stuff makes a big difference.
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Old 12-24-2008, 09:29 AM
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That should work fine, check them each trip to the track and you will be OK.

The ones on both my Chevy II and my dragster would come loose if you werent on top of them.
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Old 12-24-2008, 09:39 AM
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For making the heim jointed rods use DOM Hydraulic tubing that is the ID for tapping with L&R hand taps of the size your interested in, I just buy the L&R taps and nuts and tap the tubing on both ends. Saves welding on a critical component and with a small machined flat on the sides can be adjusted with a wrench.

Lots of wall thicknesses to choose from, use the seamless if you can. This stuff is Grade 2 bolt quality cold drawn 1010-1018 mild steel so size accordingly.

Hydraulic Line Tubing Size Chart

McMaster Carr sells in small quantities.
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