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Old 11-18-2010, 12:58 PM
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engine never started/malloryhyfire6al/nospark

I'm curios if there may be a suitable wiring diagram of sort which could tell me complete details of how I should properly wire my mallory hyfire 6al with procomp coil and billet dist. w/magnetic pickups, 100 amp alt (1 or 3 wire option). I am starting from scratch, my motor has never been fired, and I'm just wondering if there is anything I should be aware of and if there is a regultor or something within the wireup that I should know, etc,etc, so that I can either rule in or out weather or not I cooked the microprocessor, bad coil, this is my first time wiring something of this nature from scratch, also on a 454 is #1 piston driver or pass front, and should your rotor be pointing at the #1 @ tdc on a big block. any response is greatly appreciated....thanks....Eric

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Old 11-18-2010, 11:31 PM
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try this

I only use MSD but they have very good instruction manuals. You may glean the information you are looking for from them. Next #1 cylinder is front driver's side. I set my engine on 10 degrees before TDC. Then make a mark somewhere in which direction the rotor is pointing. Then place the cap on the distributor and aim the closest plug wire connector at the mark. This will be #1 cylinder. Install your plug wires and she should start first try. If you have a flat tappet cam, you don't want to be screwing around trying to get the motor fired.
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Old 11-18-2010, 11:49 PM
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love dem bbc

it may seem a little complicated but most of the time i wire up my dist befor i install it to prevent motor problems by testing it on a ground make shure that the cam and oil pump are in the corect positions for the plug wires /i take a metal plate wire dist to wires and plugs /lay plugs on grounded plate conect to msd box and spin the end of dist carfull not to get the crap knoked out of myself its beter to check the fire outside the motor than inside for the firsrt time no holes in new pistons? bent rods ect
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Old 11-19-2010, 12:29 PM
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Thanks for the replies, I think I have the mallory pretty close to being wired up correctly, the tdc is important I think because I was reading that if the dist. isnt set right I would not get any fire as well. However I was also wondering about the basic wiring end of things, like on my 3 or 1 wire 100 amp alt. is there an added voltage regulator I should run in between things or anything I should be concerned about or to look out for so that I dont fry my processor, and should I run 1 wire setup or the 3 wire with the main and the little wires you know labeled R and F? Also about the cam and the pistons, my builder degreed the cam and it has a brand new top as well as the bottom the only thing I did was put the intake and carb on, + headers, plugs wires exhst..etc.. I would have asked my builder about a few of these things but it has been a while throughout the process of the assy. of things due to financial difficulties, and he is very busy, so I dont want to constantly bug him about the small details ya know? I paid him to build my motor, not to be my babysitter, so to speak.

Last edited by '49studebaker; 11-19-2010 at 12:35 PM.
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Old 11-20-2010, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by '49studebaker
Thanks for the replies, I think I have the mallory pretty close to being wired up correctly, the tdc is important I think because I was reading that if the dist. isnt set right I would not get any fire as well. However I was also wondering about the basic wiring end of things, like on my 3 or 1 wire 100 amp alt. is there an added voltage regulator I should run in between things or anything I should be concerned about or to look out for so that I dont fry my processor, and should I run 1 wire setup or the 3 wire with the main and the little wires you know labeled R and F? Also about the cam and the pistons, my builder degreed the cam and it has a brand new top as well as the bottom the only thing I did was put the intake and carb on, + headers, plugs wires exhst..etc.. I would have asked my builder about a few of these things but it has been a while throughout the process of the assy. of things due to financial difficulties, and he is very busy, so I dont want to constantly bug him about the small details ya know? I paid him to build my motor, not to be my babysitter, so to speak.
You want a 3 wire alternator,
Large stud to Starter or battery #8 wire minimum, pin 1 goes to a switched source through the idiot light or a suitable resistor, pin 2 connects to a switched source close to the fuse panel.
Be very careful how you route the large wire for the alternator as it has full battery current potential at all times and can easily start a fire. If you can cut a 100A maxi fuse into it it would be recommended .
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Old 11-20-2010, 07:20 PM
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b sure #1 piston is on the compression cycle when lining up the dizzy.
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Old 11-25-2010, 01:55 AM
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call mallory and ask them if you need a ballast resistor.

I installed a used mallory distributor for a customer once.. downloaded the instructions from their website.. they were very *UN*clear about the use of a ballast resistor.. after talking it over with the guys.. we decided.. no resistor.. the module lasted for about 15 minutes before it melted down.
turns out it DID require one..
i was unimpressed with mallory products as a whole between the flimsy feel of the parts, and the poor documentation. (I run all MSD stuff in my own car, and MSD's docs are FAR FAR superior)
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Old 11-28-2010, 07:42 PM
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thanks for all the replies., however an unforseen complication arised when I took off the valve cover to check compression stroke for tdc. and what did i see?, coolant in the heads...back to the builder it goes, who I might have to take to court if he keeps this ***** up about he sees no coolant in the oil, theres nothing wrong with the head gaskets...ha ha, after I took the intake mnfld off to see if I had made an improbable error of putting on the intake gskts wrong or fudged the seal somehow, for which i hadn't., I proceed to pull the engine out and since my engine compartmnt. is tight I have to get a pretty steep angle to pull the motor past the oil pan and the frame and when doing so I saw coolant pouring out from between the head and the block from the intake valley side....to me it looks like either one or both the head and block surfaces were not surfaced
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