Originally Posted by 66GMC
I was going to give my $0.02 worth earlier, but IMO ... leave the timing light in your toolbox until after the break-in.
Just "static-time it" (I'd go at 8°) as you have described above. Turn the key on to the "run" position, stick a spark plug in lead #1 and ground it where you can see it. Rotate the distributor until the plug snaps, and tighten the dist clamp to the point where you can still adjust the dizzy with the engine running.
Well OK ... I suppose that you could use your timing light instead of the grounded spark plug.
Anyway, yes, you want to get that engine fired up on the first cranking attempt and get it up into that "splash oiling" RPM range and keep it there. You can always fiddle with the distributor if the engine is obviously laboring or getting too warm.
You'll want to vary that engine RPM occasionally to ensure that oil is getting splashed in all directions.
Good Luck. I can tell you first-hand that wiping out a cam during break-in is no fun at all.
I have it static timed at 8* now thanks for the tip
Originally Posted by cobalt327
If the mechanical advance springs are (God forbid) stock, or still aftermarket ones, 10 degrees initial is not going to be anywhere near enough timing.
If you don't have a dial back timing light, make a timing tape
and use a timing light to see what the timing is at 2000 rpm. If it's not high enough, give it some more timing. I'd use at least
36 degrees w/the engine running at 2000 rpm.
Once the cam is broken in, set up the advance curve
I do have a dial back timing light and after i do the valves and try to fire it up again in the AM i will see what it is at at 2k if i can get it to run at 2k with out sounding like there is a shoot out in my garage.
Im not looking for performance right now just what ever it takes to get it running at 2k-2500 to break in the cam, once it is broken in i will be trying to get it running perfect