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11-12-2012, 06:42 PM
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11-12-2012, 06:44 PM
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11-12-2012, 07:01 PM
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Well ... sort of. Depending on whose oil filter you have screwed on there, it probably doesn't have an anti-drainback valve. The one listed for a 350 does not. You can use a NAPA #1060 / WIX 51060 that does. It was intended for the the 6.2 diesel which required it. Other than the valve, its identical to a #1061/51061. I know that the valve isn't absoutely nessecary on an SBC because they are mounted vertically, so the filter itself cannot drain back. Just as an experiment though, Try priming that oil pump with a good drill (i.e gear reduction 3/8" or 1/2" electric corded drill or 3/8" air-powered drill) and see how long it takes for oil to come out of the pushrods. Perhaps it was paranoia, but I can tell you that I primed my 454 the second time until I had pumped at least a quart of it through. I wanted oil to be dripping into the lifter valley from above.  We used a 1/4" cordless drill on what I call "the round one disaster". It spun until the pumped sucked up oil, and my buddy assured me that it would have oil pressure as soon as it fired.  That valvetrain probably ran bone dry for a considerable time while it filled the filter and worked its way though all of the oil galleys, etc. 
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11-12-2012, 08:56 PM
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11-12-2012, 09:08 PM
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11-12-2012, 10:05 PM
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It won't run 180 out.
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11-12-2012, 11:00 PM
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ok, but since i have done the finger over the #1 spark plug hole to make sure it is on the compression stroke, lined up the timing mark at TDC, lifted the distributor and re-inserted it making sure that the rotor is pointing at the #1 cylinder and then installed the cap with the #1 wire on the post that the rotor is pointing toward, that should mean the distributor is in correct not 180* off right. If it was 180* off when the #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke the rotor would be pointing toward #6 not #1 right?
It didnt really go any better today i tried briefly to start it up and get it up to speed but it really ran like crap, would barely get up to 2k and then started the backfiring through the carb crap again so i shut it back down right away. now is where i feel stupid... I went to check the rotor again and when i lifted the cap i found out that one of the contacts had slipped off the wire in the cap end of the plug wire, so then i started taking a real close look at all the plug wires and saw that the wire seperators i used had actually cut the outer sleeve of some of the wires, so i am hoping that is the issue, that some wires were loose and had some cuts in them so they were arcing
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11-13-2012, 12:38 AM
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With your #1 cyl at TDC, & the distributor rotor is pointing correctly at the lug in the cap for the #1 spark plug, make sure both the intake & exh rocker arms are level.
If one rocker is lifting, you are 180 degress off on your distributor installation Also, make sure the wires on the cap run clockwise looking down 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
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11-13-2012, 12:04 PM
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Important! Be sure that #5 and #7 wires are correct at the cap and down at the head. The two are next to each other on the distributor cap and at the plugs so swapping them is easy to do- I have done it myself. The engine WILL run this way- but it'll be running like crap.
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11-13-2012, 12:15 PM
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11-13-2012, 03:10 PM
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One additional thought . . . Did you order your camshaft with a 4-7 swap?
Pat
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11-13-2012, 03:10 PM
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Depending on wire quality, it is easy for one wire to feed another if they are run parallel to each other and close together. Try to keep wires at least 1 inch from each other and where they have to cross, use an X junction.
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11-13-2012, 03:12 PM
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11-13-2012, 03:14 PM
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... They were cheap wires so maybe
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11-13-2012, 07:27 PM
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i want to cry right now...
i am so frusterated that i feel like i am going to lose my effing mind... i pulled the valve cover and watched the #1 exhaust valve open then close, then the intake open and then start to close while i had my thumb over the plug hole and felt air coming out while the wife turned it over untill it lined up with ... so i am pretty darn sure that i am on TDC for #1 on compression stroke, when i lift the cap the rotor is pointing toward #1 (looking at the top of the rotor the metal tab goes from the center to the out side, the out side with the metal is pointing toward #1) new cap, new rotor, new plug wires (made sure to start with #1 at the post near where the rotor was pointing and set the plug wires acording to the firing order and double checked with the picture in the old camaro chilton manual, new coil, new carb gaskets new carb seal plate, both mixture screws set to 2 turns out upon start up it had trouble starting, it started ran for a second and then died, it did this a few times then managed to start and idle but it did not want to come up above 1500-2000 and when it did get up to near 2k it started backfiring through the carb, while it was ideling for a second i checked the timing with a light, it was at like 15* before tdc i tried about 10* before TDC and same results with a barely running idle, i moved it the other way to like 30* btdc and it picked up rpm at idle but still didnt want to come up above 2k and backfired through the carb when it did and felt like it was missing bad below 2k. It also does not want to stop when the key is turned off... It really feels like the timing is off or fueling is jacked but i dont know what else to do... It is the same distributor and carb that was on it when it was running a few months ago. maybe the carb got jacked up and it is just running really lean for some reason, or the diszy is jacked, or i am jacked... I am lost and frusterated... dont suppose anyone that knows what they are doing and is in the NorCal East bay area and would want to come drink some beers and bbq and check this thing out 
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