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You need a vacuum advance.
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just read the whole topic again , dude i know how it feels . my bloody engine frustrates the hell out of me. but i am gettiing there,
ok i reckon from what you have said you would be better trying to get a working ( friends ? ) dizzy to douple check . you need a vacum line and it defo needs to adj the timing within the dizzy, also get that comp test done. are you getting excess oil pressure or blow out from the oil dipstick or cam covers ? i had a problem years ago and it was blowing through the rings and pressuring the enigne oil ways . so hopefully a comp test will be ok , my money is on a dodgy timing as i said at the begining. so either wiring of the dizzy . dodgy dizzy. a plug faulty ? anything to do with the ign circuit my money is on. if i was near you i would be there for the beers and bbq. chin up son !!
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just had a thought . not sure how yours works but my dizzy ( not being used now - only to drive oil pump ) has a helicol drive cog which locates off of the cam. if that is buggered or the spilt pin is screwed it may turn for a bit but then fire wrong due to the spilt pin or dodgy teeth on cog etc etc. put a rag around the cog and try to twist gently with the dizzy locked. or best still replace with a new pin to be on the safe side,
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| The Following User Says Thank You to mustang 671 For This Useful Post: | ||
cobalt327 (11-15-2012) | ||
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Good idea to double check the roll pin holding the gear on the distributor shaft. On Fords w/a gerotor oil pump this is also something to look out for.
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i had just pluged the vac to see what the initial timing was, did't matter the vac advance didnt work anyway, plus everything was out of adjustment, and gummed up, the weights were sticky opening and hung up when closing. I picked up a MSD pro billet, 6a box, blaster coil, and wires for a great price off a local craigslist find, it is in GREAT shape but it had the big 7445 pro-cap and rotor kit on it which was about 1/2 inch too big (not enough room with the firewall on the truck) soooo i am waiting on a new cap, rotor, and vac can, and weights/advance kit (he had it locked out) from summit. Even with all that i still got a good deal, everything looks barely used. Will try again on monday when the parts get here, but from the condition of the old distributor it really seems like that is the issue.
thanks for everyone's help and patience, hopefully this is the magic fix. anyone wanna buy a big MSD pro-cap kit, like new |
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Hi
I would like to thank all the guys here for helping me build me 350 TBI engine I had the same problem with you ![]() and it's comp cams fultI have set the timing on 0 and when I try to crank the engine it's backfire from the throttle.....I thought it's need a spcial degee or something.....but it's won't start ![]() ![]() finally I after 2 weeks of trying I found the problem...it's the comp cams timing gear #2100 it's give you a totally diffrent degree of the 350 engine usually when you matching the two points on the timing gear the piston #1 must be on TDC "new lesson to me " but with comp cams when you matching the points the piston #1 is going down with open intake ..or intake stroke and that's why it's back fire when you try to crank the enginecomp cams is junk is poeple say and now I belive they are junk it wasting me the money-time-work so you should match the old parts with the new ![]() see the diffrent between the comp cams gears"left" and other brand with a correct timing "right" I try the free host but won't work...so I upload the picture in my flickr account comp4re | Flickr - Photo Sharing! good luck and contact the comp cams....I think they replace it ...I,m not yet contact comp cams yet |
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I just installed the same set in my 350. The rounded keyway matches the stock straight up configuration.
The square keyway you circled is either 4* retarded or advanced, can't remember. |
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I have tow TBI engine.......1993 TBI and my orginal car engine which is 350 1990 caddy they are the same crank and the same parts and thier orginal gears are exactly the same....no diffrent comp cams offer two types of gear with the same # check them on ebay and you'll see the diffrent man I try all the key....as the comp cams instraction say......all keys should match the round on the round in the cam gear......but non match today I just put the gears on the right and the engine start great.......I have the orginal GM gears for the engine both I,m just in way to learn.......hemi engines usaully use the same cam.....maybe it's for a hemi engine...I don't know about them...but it's diffrent. ask comp and see....they offer two types maybe I,m on mistake....but the male on the crank allow me to use only one key which I put a round on maybe it's for an aftermarkiting crank? |
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That should be where you are having the issue, if you used the square keyway that you circled but lined it up with the round dot you installed the cam off by quite a bit, i have circled the marks that you use with each keyway ![]() stock would be the round dot with the round key way that is in basically the same position as the gear set on the right |
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![]() ![]() Ohhhhhyes....you all right man........I didn't understand that now I got it........ ![]() ![]() I missunderstand the instraction ![]() thanks a lot man.......I will try this in the second engine |
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