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Old 12-15-2003, 12:36 PM
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Engine Oil Cooler

Hi, I'm a new member and would like to find out if anyone has had any luck getting their engine temp down using a good engine oil cooler with fan along with the radiator. I am just getting my 67 camaro back on the road after its been parked without a motor for a couple of years. I just put in a 454 and turbo 400. My goal is to make it quick and dependable and have air conditioning if I think the engine temp wont be a problem. I havent drove it much so far but on a hot day it gets up to 220 degrees and its not even summer. I know I could spend a lot of money on a custom radiator and get the temp down but if a oil cooler with a fan would do the job i'd rather do it that way. Hear are the motor specs. 454 bbc, .574 lift extreme energy cam, 12 to 1 compression that somehow runs on 93 octane fuel with the cam timing changed and the overlap of the bumpy cam, oval port closed chamber heads, and 850dp holley thats fixing to come off for a 750 vacuum secondary, timing is at 17 initial and 35 total. Radiator is a stock type 4 row. It has march performance pulleys that drive the waterpump and fan faster. It has a stock type fan with a derale clutch. I run a shroud. It has a 3000 stall convertor.

Thans, Kevin

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Old 12-15-2003, 12:56 PM
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I'm not sure that an oil cooler will fix the problem or crutch the cooling problem. A properly assembled engine should be able to run the compression ratio with out detonation but not with a penalty. 17 degree'a timing while isn't a lot, it does show me you are really pushing the limits of the fuel to prevent detonation. If this turns to be true enough an oil cooler will not help much. Especially while driving slow around town. The RPMs aren't high enough to induce heat into the oil. Higher oil temps will help in building power. I should think you may want to reconsider the cause of the high water temps at low speeds. IF a oil cooler is your only alternative then I've seen them decrease water temps by as much as 40 degree's.
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Old 12-15-2003, 05:37 PM
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Thanks johnsongrass1. I,m not saying I will put a oil cooler on, I just wanted to know if it has helped anyone with their cooling problem. I personaly dont know anybody who does it on the street but I feel theres people out there who have tried it. I had a blower motor in the car before this one and pulled it out for a race car because off the temp problem on the street. I could never get a handle on it.
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Old 12-15-2003, 11:17 PM
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I would have liked to have installed an oil cooler with separate fan, but finally gave up trying to find a place it would fit. I installed an oil cooler directly behind the radiator inside the shroud. It clears the fan by about a 1/2" and I can attribute about 10 degrees cooler running directly to it. This amount is just about the same as what the A/C was adding to the cooling system so I can now run it during the summer. Before, just about the time we needed the A/C, we would end up cutting it off because of climbing engine heat. The unit choosen was fairly large at 17x8x1.5", and was the manifold type where the oil passed through 4 tubes one-way to the other side for less restriction.
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Old 12-16-2003, 01:08 AM
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How many core rad are you running?are you sure those pulleys are turning the water pump more?
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Old 12-16-2003, 06:28 AM
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I am surprised that no one in this thread has mentioned it yet.

What (if any) temperature thermostat are you running in this engine?

Yes, an oil cooler will help but not if the rest of the combination has gone unchecked. An oil cooler certainly cannot hurt your engine.

Another thing I would check out extensively is a step cooler in the spark plug heat range.
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Old 12-16-2003, 07:24 AM
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Thanks lust4speed. Ten degrees could help a lot. What I was thinking about doing was putting a engine oil cooler in front of the radiator and my trans cooler where you put the lube oil cooler. I have enough room with my short water pump. As far as pulleys I have the larger march performance on the crank and the smaller on the water pump. I have a 160 degree thermostat and stock heat range plugs.
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Old 12-16-2003, 10:13 AM
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Rollers

I run 383 full roller motors for the extra torque and the lower heat temps. Rollers reduce the temp guage by about 10 degrees. Also, and please correct me if I am wrong, the termastat you are running should be about 180 min. The high degree allows the rad more time to dump the heat before the stat opens again. Always best to keep the oil cool and not try to cool it after the fact.

hr41pearl
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Old 12-16-2003, 11:21 AM
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I run an oil cooler with a thermostat at 180º, lets a small amount of oil through when cold and opens up at 180.My oil temp is measured at the cooler to filter fitting and is around 180 /190.
I have had a temp sender in the block and that showed the same.
Usually the block temp is lower than the head temp.I read that oil in this temp range gives up deposits better to the oil filter than very hot oil.
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Old 12-16-2003, 11:34 AM
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I still say get rid of those underdrive pulleys.
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Old 12-16-2003, 12:42 PM
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Dradee, look again at what I posted. I'm overdriving the pump and fan. Malc, did the lube oil cooler help out a cooling problem or did you have one. Thom, I'm 80 percent sure I have a 160 degree thermostat. I will be out of town for a week before I can check anything. I've read a lot of articles on the slowing the water flow down and I have to go with the ones that say its a old mechanic myth. Faster flowing water gets mixed better in the block and if it flows through the radiator twice as fast, that water also gets back to the radiator again twice as fast. It makes sense to me but a lot of people would argue with it.
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Old 12-16-2003, 01:16 PM
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I understand but just like too little overdrive too much is negative aswell. check your pulley speed,multiply the diam of the drive pulley by the engine rpm and divide that by the driven pulley diam.a ratio of 1.3 to 1.4 to 1 is all you want any more and it makes cooling more difficult any less than 1 to 1 is abviously no good.
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Old 12-16-2003, 01:29 PM
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I put the oil cooler on because I wanted to do it.It keeps the oil at a steady 180 before it went to 250.
My motor used to run too cool with a 180 water stat and a fan that came on at 180 and off at 160.Now the fan is switched at 210 and off at 180.Running the car cools to 160.Runs real good now on 95 octane and 10.1 : 1 comp.
I also run a trans cooler in front of the rad but neither are against the rad, they sit out front, seems to work.
I also got an underdrive crank pulley, but then had to enlarge the alternator pulley to get a decent idle charge.Going in circles it
seems.If water goes through the block quick it takes the heat away quick, if it stays longer it takes more with it so it has to stay in the rad longer.Both arguments work.
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Old 12-16-2003, 01:38 PM
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Time

Not sure I believe the in block longer takes more heat away theory. But engines need to heat up to 180 for todays gas. I guess you could run leanner if you want to run a lower thermostat. I spend the extra money to have a dyno-shop run my car on the gas I wanted to use. They set the temp and meter the flow of gas with jetting. Dyno people are great sources of temp control information.

hr41pearl
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Old 12-16-2003, 04:26 PM
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The only answer I have heard that makes any sense about restricting the water flow is that it might prevent some cavitation in the pump. This might also be why speeding up the water pump too much might decrease cooling. This would be engine specific and "results may vary" - some might get away with it and get a little extra cooling, while the next engine might run hotter speeding things up. I believe that one reason that we have a hard time agreeing on what works, is that each engine reacts differently to a fix. I have tested my GTO with a 160, a 180, a gutted thermostat, and no thermostat; and on a hot day, all will produce a 195 degree running temperature. No change for my car, but the next guy swears that one of the above is the ultimate answer.
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