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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 07-25-2013, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northern Chevy View Post
The coolant solution sounds good then. What sort of temp gauge is this as I would suggest getting your hands on a infra red heat gun and when its running at this high heat, check what the top of the rad/hose/thermostat housing readings are and also the bottom rad hose. Its worth checking into before pulling heads !.

About the thermo clutch fan assembly, do you hear it kick in and howl when it gets this hot or is it not locking up ?. I find they don't set the clutch kick in point low enough even on a brand new unit and I did some toying with the bi metal spring on my 95 chev to lower the engagement temp. Mechanical fans just don't work well in hot climates and low engine speed/ground speed, thats where electric fans shine.
Is there any way to lock the clutch on these kinds of fans ? If there is can you unlock it later ? Kind of a test ?

BTW; nice outside and the truck is running at 210 degrees. Figure that.

OTG

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Old 07-25-2013, 02:37 PM
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I haven't tried it myself to lock it up permanently and its been a number of years since I manipulated my bi metal spring that I can't recall which direction, more loose or winding it up tighter caused the shaft in the center to turn the proper direction to restrict the clutch fluid. Someone had made a comment a few years ago about themselves having a heating issue while pulling a trailer in the mountains and their claim was they had unhooked the end of the bi metal spring and that caused it to lock up permanently but I won't swear that works because I haven't tried it myself.

The trick I would use is to unbolt the unit from the truck and take a BBQ lighter or hair dryer as a heat source and make a note of where the center shaft is and then start heating it up and you will see it rotate. You want that shaft to be locked to the end of travel in the direction you saw it rotate. Now if the clutch seems no different in how it feels resistance wise to turn when its in its engaged position, that to me would suggest its failed internally.

When you start the engine cold and are not driving yet, try revving it up slowly to 1500 then 2000, 2500 and get a feel for how the fan air flow sounds ( assuming your exhaust isn't too loud ) as typically the clutch will be engaged when its first started and then unlocks when it reaches a certain RPM. At some point as you manipulate the RPM it should unlock and then the sound changes a lot with reduced air flow.

A friend of mine had a mid 80s chev half ton with a 350 and his clutch seized on him and there was no mistaking that sound as it just roared at 4000 RPM when descending a steep hill with the foot off the throttle.

Just remember, if you buy a replacement thermo clutch unit to match it to the fan you have because for instance if you placed a standard light duty fan blade onto a heavy duty clutch, the fan won't take enough power in turning to disengage the clutch .... it would cool good but rob your power all the time !.

Last edited by Northern Chevy; 07-25-2013 at 02:43 PM.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 07-25-2013, 06:38 PM
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Check the temperature difference from the top of the radiator to the bottom. Should be at least 30*. Your issue sounds like a basic cooling issue. If the temerature difference is good on teh radiator then you may have a incorrect gasket issue that is hindering the cooler water from the radiator from circulating through the engine. Where is your temp sender.
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Old 07-30-2013, 05:09 AM
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I cleaned the condenser and noticed that there is a trans cooler covering 1/3 of the radiator. Just had the trans rebuilt and it was loaded with synthetic oil. Maybe the synthetic gets hotter than standard trans fluid ?

I am going to move the trans cooler out of the way and see what happens.

Now that it is cooler out .. just watch and the temp goes back to normal...
Just my luck.

OTG
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Old 07-30-2013, 08:04 AM
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As I was reading your last post it reminded me that a full size truck with a smaller engine and a standard trans can use a much thinner rad and still do the job vs one that has a big block, auto trans, air conditioning all added. Thats why a good fan to keep the air flow up is even more critical for a vehicle that has all the other coolers plunked in front of the rad.

From my understanding the synthetic oil should ether run at the same or a lower temperature given the same application so I doubt that is your problem. The torque converter you have would make a difference and those on here versed in the performance high stall units vs a stock OEM unit could add thoughts on how much more generated heat would be expected ( only if you had installed a non OEM unit ) and of course the lock up converters are better when locked at highway speed but unlocked they sure seem to slip and cause more heat issues I find such as climbing hills or pulling a load.

I don't have the various core thicknesses in my head in what GM typically used but perhaps you could measure the actual core thickness and list it here as that may help if a thicker rad is available. To measure it depending on how its designed, it may be the easiest to slip a small wire through the fins to get the true core thickness. Because some rads are copper, others are aluminum there seem to be variables on how many rows of cores there is so that doesn't always compute ether.
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Old 08-01-2013, 07:32 PM
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The radiator is a heavy duty unit with I believe are 3 rows. There isn't any more room on the end caps for any more. The TC is an RV type but come to think about it this has been running hot ever since I got the trans rebuilt.
With a huge cooler like I have one would think the trans couldn't over heat the engine. How do you check to see if it is the TC ?

OTG
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Old 08-01-2013, 07:52 PM
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I'll leave the technicals of the TC to others on here although will make a suggestion of installing a transmission temp gauge ( even if its only temporary ) in the line before the cooler so that way you can see what the temperature really is of the oil and how much heat would then be rejected into the air flow of the engine rad. Does the transmission shift crisp and no notice of slippage ? . If the trans temp is high that could be a warning sign of something amiss.

It would appear you have a proper rad although it wouldn't hurt to check to see where your rad falls into the lineup, if it indeed is the largest one typically available.
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