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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 04-02-2012, 06:47 PM
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I just recently stripped my block of all the chevy orange. It was Aervoe engine enamel. I used the Jasco Premium Paint and Epoxy remover (from home depot) with wire brushes and steel wool and it took all day to strip the block and heads....and there was no primer. It was on there.

When I repainted I used Duplicolor engine primer first and then Aervoe again. Important thing is to make sure the parts are clean clean clean. Dont touch them with your fingers after you clean clean clean.

If you decide to use primer first, put it on SPARINGLY...almost semi translucent...just enough to cover. Regards.

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Old 04-02-2012, 08:45 PM
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You don't need primer, the porosity and roughness of cast iron provides plenty of tooth for the paint to adhere too.
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Old 04-02-2012, 09:29 PM
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Like 4 jaw said, you dont NEED it......as described in my previous post that paint was on there due to the rough surface and good prep work with no primer.

If you decide you are more comfortable with primer first use high temp engine primer but dont cake it on there as I previously decsribed.

I used it this time to see if there would be any difference. So far so good. Seems the color coat went on a little smoother and the 'high spots', like the pointy tips of the rough parts of the casting didn't pop thru the color coat like they did before with no primer.

Regards.
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Old 04-03-2012, 07:45 AM
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Thanks for all your replies. Very reassuring to get this much feedback so quickly. That being said, my son still felt more comfortable using primer so we went with the hi temp primer & then painted. Looks great. Now its time for reass'y.

Dave
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Old 04-03-2012, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big_wave_dav
Thanks for all your replies. Very reassuring to get this much feedback so quickly. That being said, my son still felt more comfortable using primer so we went with the hi temp primer & then painted. Looks great. Now its time for reass'y.
I like painting mine when they are done
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Old 04-04-2012, 10:07 AM
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engine paint

Surprised no one mentioned POR paints. I brushed on POR Chevy orange on my 350 and it's holding up great. I was able to get the thickness of coverage I wanted and it really didn't take that long.
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Old 04-04-2012, 07:35 PM
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Last time I did a small block chevy, I used Imron orange. Man that stuff is the shizzznit!!!! Get any dirt or grease on it and it just wipes off, and shines.

red
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 04-04-2012, 07:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dego_red
Last time I did a small block chevy, I used Imron orange. Man that stuff is the shizzznit!!!! Get any dirt or grease on it and it just wipes off, and shines.

red
I used Imron once years ago on a hot rod motor, worked great. I m thinking its much the same as the Eastwood with the hardner. If that holds up as good as the Imron Ill be thrilled!
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Old 04-05-2012, 12:12 AM
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Paint choices...

I'm not sure what the original color was, but I'm painting the Chevy engine in my Terraplane using "Stove bright" spray rattle cans. Right now I'm leaning toward a very dark green body color, so their " metallic forest green" , on the small amount of the block that will show, looks like a winner to me. I've used Stove bright several times on jobs as a house painter with great results. No primer, just make sure everything's clean.
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Old 04-05-2012, 05:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 327NUT
Just painted my Cadillac block with DupliColor engine primer and enamel. The inside red color is Glyptal, not really necessary but I had a can of it so why not.
I would get that paint out of the enginethats not a good thing!It will evntually break down,and may travel to the oil pump; via the lifter vally drain holes etc. I just would not do this. You've never seen a engine painted inside have you.? This is definetely for this reason. looks good now ... no-run tomorrow
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Old 04-05-2012, 05:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsa_bob
I would get that paint out of the enginethats not a good thing!It will evntually break down,and may travel to the oil pump; via the lifter vally drain holes etc. I just would not do this. You've never seen a engine painted inside have you.? This is definetely for this reason. looks good now ... no-run tomorrow
That inside is painted with Glyptal, thats painted for oil control. Used extensively in racing applications. There are a couple of threads here on it. Don't worry, it's not coming off.!!
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richiehd
That inside is painted with Glyptal, thats painted for oil control. Used extensively in racing applications. There are a couple of threads here on it. Don't worry, it's not coming off.!!

Ijust hope its the right thing to do.,i haven't raced in many years . must be a new thing aaayyy ?? bob s
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Old 04-05-2012, 10:12 AM
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glyptal

I have used it on 3 engines and never a problem... regularly driven. It not only sheds oil readily back into the pan, it also seals in microscopic metal particles and they never get into the oil flow.
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Old 04-05-2012, 04:45 PM
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Engine Paint

This is great stuff. Thank you. I have a 4 bolt 350 block that is going into a 1952 Chevy pickup that was me deceased sons truck. I managed to get it away from his "grieving widow" (facetious here all she wanted was his money) and plan to get it up and running soon. Gotta get the engine together first so I can do a switch out and start driving.
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:18 PM
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pablo Picasso is smiling somewhere

man, good looking paint getting laid over here.i try nice little sand out with 320 maybe 220, but thats a little harsh,i admit that.i like the rattle cans on well prepped surface.what you guys think bout header paint,or just wrap them.i wish there was a drying resin to wrap and set it with tie straps till the gloss resin dries.some of that 1500 degree paint needs the engine or headers to run and then it cures.Eastwood stuff is Boss,i got a free shipping credit with them.i wonder how that brush on looks. p.s when is everyone gonna get anodizing down pat to hit the pulleys,aluminum.maybe the rotating assembly ,that process is bulletproof.bye
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