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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2012, 09:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chunky
Really helpful from a seasoned rodder ???. I thought this forum was supposed to be a friendly place.

Asking a question is far easier and time saving than driving however long it takes to get to the parts store only to find out a simple answer.
You're first post on the forum is bashing someone else? Wow man. He was messing around anyway...

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2012, 08:46 AM
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If you decide on the rattle can route, be sure to use a good epoxy spray primer, especially for Chevy or Chrysler orange. Those colors don't cover very well. w/o primer they appear dark and sort of muddy, even with multiple cans of coverage. With a good white undercoat, they pop and are very bright with a couple light coats. black and other dark colors probably don't need the primer.

In fact that goes for the base coat/clear coat route as well.
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Old 06-24-2012, 05:20 PM
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painted my block with rustex grey primer from cloverdale paints,then top coated it with three coats of tremclad red.after doing some othe rstuff to the block,i decided to get the block recleaned to be sure.they had to leave it in the acid bath for a full week to get the paint off,and it was only a week old! its an industrial fast dry primer,that grips like crazy!
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Old 06-25-2012, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by painted jester
A lot of high end shops paint the inside of engines, no problems if its the right paint it wont come off !!! Ive been using this system for over 40 years

Jester
Ditto! Not only has Glyptol been used inside engines for years, but every hi performance engine manual or book has reccommended it for years. The key to using it is having the engine properly prepped, and use the real Glyptol. I've always done it to engines right after they come back from hot tanking and machine work. I give them a good hot soapy bath and rinse them off, then after thorough drying I paint with Glyptol. I also smooth all the casting flaws in the lifter valley before I send them out for maching, so oil return flow is improved.
Many people make the mistake of building the short block first and that creates oily surfaces where the paint wont adhere, which will cause huge problems. My engine in my Camaro has about 30,000 miles on the rebuild done in 1999, and it's painted this way.
I didn't do the valley on my 327 just because I couldn't guarantee it would be oil free when I had it apart.
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Old 06-26-2012, 12:13 AM
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Block Painting

I assembled SCCA V-8 & V-6 engines for a shop several years. We got away from painting for the same reasons listed below. The real way to speed oil return and get rid of any loose casting is to use a die grinder with carbide and sanding rolls.

The first return season of freshening engines that were painted had paint starting to flake from jet washing or hot tanking the blocks. I don't about you but I don't want any "electric motor" paint in my or customers engine bearings.

Look up Y112 photo gallery for 427 block prep picture. No overspray, just 4 hours max work for big block
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 07-21-2012, 08:10 PM
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I used the Dupli-Color paint on mine, hope it stay like it is now
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Old 08-13-2012, 11:09 AM
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i got some enamel primer and paint with a super wet look hardener. My paint guy told me no matter what i do with the rattle engine paint it will burn off.
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Old 08-13-2012, 01:16 PM
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in the past I've always used PPG 2part epoxy primers, PPG Auto basecoat and clearcoats, not cheap !
Now this build being my 1st after the stroke I'm using DupliColor Rattle can paint, I hope it stays on, ain't fired the motor yet
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 09-04-2012, 05:32 PM
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Candy paint jobs

Just a note on candy paint jobs. Basically, candy is an effect achieved by spraying notoriously thin (low coating) paints over very light color under coats like red and light green (like apples).

The under coats are most commonly white or silver metalic. That said, you can achieve the "candied effect" by lightly spraying any color that will have the "see through" factor over one of the undercolors I mentioned to get the effect. Add metalics at your own risk as the application becomes phenominally more difficult when you add pearl or metal flake.

Anyway, that's how you get a Candy paint job.
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Old 09-04-2012, 07:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertalive View Post
man, good looking paint getting laid over here.i try nice little sand out with 320 maybe 220, but thats a little harsh,i admit that.i like the rattle cans on well prepped surface.what you guys think bout header paint,or just wrap them.i wish there was a drying resin to wrap and set it with tie straps till the gloss resin dries.some of that 1500 degree paint needs the engine or headers to run and then it cures.Eastwood stuff is Boss,i got a free shipping credit with them.i wonder how that brush on looks. p.s when is everyone gonna get anodizing down pat to hit the pulleys,aluminum.maybe the rotating assembly ,that process is bulletproof.bye
Heat them up with a propane torch before painting. Hit them again while it drying. It will bubble up a little but will lay back down.
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 09-05-2012, 10:16 AM
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I use HItemp paint on my engine parts. Although I have seen custom Harley's with candy painted engines and transmissions. I have a good friend who owns a body shop and he paints these Harley components all the time. He uses regular urethane type paint systems on them and they hold up to the heat.

'
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Old 10-10-2012, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickman2k View Post
I used the Dupli-Color paint on mine, hope it stay like it is now
What Duplicolor paint is that? Looks like Metalcast with Anodized Blue over it...Looks sweet. I started painting some of my accessory items with it and hope it stays on.
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Old 10-14-2012, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by bondo View Post
Ayuh,... I paint my motors with rattlecan Rustoleum....

Never had any paint loss, except for the hot spot on the intake manifold, at the cross over...
I just bought a can of Rust Oleum engine spray paint at Walmart to learn a little about painting an engine. I have to start somewhere and figure it's the easiest and cheapest way in case I mess up.
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Old 10-24-2012, 11:06 AM
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new to forum and first car build in twenty years. I have been restoring motorcycles for the past 9 years. as I do not have a compressor to paint with, I have been using VHT engine paint with great success. I have been in contact with the owners of my rsetos who ride them regularly and they have not seen any issues. there were no mentions of VHT in this thread, anyone use VHT on car engines?
thnks
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2012, 12:54 AM
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Originally Posted by bondo View Post
Ayuh,... I paint my motors with rattlecan Rustoleum....

Never had any paint loss, except for the hot spot on the intake manifold, at the cross over...
I'm restoring my '49 and like most people have shortage of money laying around to throw away at this time. I was planning on just getting the mechanical and the fabrication out of the way then paint some things then when I'm ready to paint the cab then I'll paint the engine, etc.

Since the frame is going to sandblasting and paint by a professional shop, while I have the engine hanging there I was thinking a couple of dollars of Rustoleum spray cans won't break the budget.

I was thinking about using paint stripper then a really good cleaning with diesel a pressure washer and a wire brush on an air tool. After that a little more pressure washing with good soap, and that's when I got stumped.
1- Do I need to use a high temp primer or just spray it with high temp engine paint?

2- The headers have surface rust. After wire brushing them, do I just high temp spray them also and the same question, primer or direct paint?

Look at all the primers I saw and none of them say high temp.
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