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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 11-09-2012, 03:29 PM
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I'm going with Duplicolor "Cast Aluminum" on my aluminum LS and 6L60. I know. It seems redundant!

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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 12-03-2012, 08:24 PM
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327NUT What size is you cadillac engine ,I am looking at a 1970 500 to go in 1950 Chevy pu i will leave close to stock exept aluminum heads and intake ,from what i have read it only weighs 70lbs more than small block chevy so head $ intake shoukd balance out ,any tricks you know I should look out for Thanks
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 12-04-2012, 12:16 AM
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Mine is a '75 500 bored .030 making it a 507, you don't need aluminum heads, besides they are $3500. The '70 500 engine had 76 cc combustion chambers and around 10.1 compression. A good rebuild with the Edelbrock 2115 intake, a Holley or Quick Fuel Tech carb and a #10 cam from "Maximum Torque Specialties" will really set that engine free. Take a look at their website at Index and also look at Cadillac Forum, join the forum and see all kinds of big Cadillac engine builds.
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  #64 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2013, 10:21 PM
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engine painting

Remember , with rattlecan paint oil and gas will strip it faster than you can yell a curse word ! Ive found that urethane clear with hardener will cover any rattlecan paint ,ANY , and youll end up with a super shiney , long lasting , solvent protected finish that will make you want to open the hood . I paint a lot , many parts , so I keep it around but a Qt. of clear and Pt. of hardener will run you maybe 50 bucks and youll be surprised how often youll use it ! Wheels , hood bottom sides , engine compartments and the list goes on and on . If you dont have a compressor , you probably dont do paint at all anyway . Wear a respirator !
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  #65 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2013, 12:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vothtrucks View Post
Remember , with rattlecan paint oil and gas will strip it faster than you can yell a curse word ! Ive found that urethane clear with hardener will cover any rattlecan paint ,ANY , and youll end up with a super shiney , long lasting , solvent protected finish that will make you want to open the hood . I paint a lot , many parts , so I keep it around but a Qt. of clear and Pt. of hardener will run you maybe 50 bucks and youll be surprised how often youll use it ! Wheels , hood bottom sides , engine compartments and the list goes on and on . If you dont have a compressor , you probably dont do paint at all anyway . Wear a respirator !
You got it! Next best thing to powder coating. I even paint some of my my wood carvings w/ clear urethane when I want a slick porcelain look.
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Old 01-20-2013, 10:08 PM
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i have used dupla color it lasts for about two years and then dulls . would like to try the eastwood stuf its abit pricey but cleaning a block is a lot of work . back in the good old days oven cleaner would take off all the old paint grease grime. but they took all the good stuf out of it.
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  #67 (permalink)  
Old 01-20-2013, 10:10 PM
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How long will the eastwood paint last?
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  #68 (permalink)  
Old 01-20-2013, 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by lowhirod View Post
i have used dupla color it lasts for about two years and then dulls .
Is this Dupli-Color that you used a spray can enamel? I painted my accessories with a spray can enamel : Rust-Oleum “Gloss Protective Enamel” 7747 Sunburst Yellow and they look bright and shiny. I'm still restoring the frame and body so I'm in no hurry.

Since these parts are subject to getting fuel and grease on them I'm trying to figure out how to protect them.I started another thread asking about this and everybody says that urethane will lift the enamel coat.

Does gas and oil mess up your Dupli-color paint?
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  #69 (permalink)  
Old 01-21-2013, 01:30 PM
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Engine paint

You can spray urethane over rattlecan paint if you leave the catalyst out. Try it on a small part first to ensure it will not lift. Just use clear and the hardener 1to 1. I have used this "trick" over old style enamel pin stripping and it works fine.
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  #70 (permalink)  
Old 01-21-2013, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PRHeloPilot View Post
Is this Dupli-Color that you used a spray can enamel? I painted my accessories with a spray can enamel : Rust-Oleum “Gloss Protective Enamel” 7747 Sunburst Yellow and they look bright and shiny. I'm still restoring the frame and body so I'm in no hurry.

Since these parts are subject to getting fuel and grease on them I'm trying to figure out how to protect them.I started another thread asking about this and everybody says that urethane will lift the enamel coat.

Does gas and oil mess up your Dupli-color paint?
I have sprayed catalyzed urethane over most everything and have never had a problem. I even put a drip of urethane hardener in my Testors model enamel to harden it and that works great. Try it on a test piece, I think you will have no problems. That is the only thing that will preserve your rattle can paint job.
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  #71 (permalink)  
Old 01-21-2013, 03:23 PM
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Thanks guys. I copied your info to give to the body shop when I talk to them later. Thanks again.
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  #72 (permalink)  
Old 01-21-2013, 05:37 PM
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Paint

OPPS I must apologize I meant to say leave the thinner out and only use the hardener. It works very well.
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  #73 (permalink)  
Old 01-21-2013, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by dbrow6272 View Post
OPPS I must apologize I meant to say leave the thinner out and only use the hardener. It works very well.
I'll change that word in my copy & paste.
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  #74 (permalink)  
Old 01-22-2013, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbrow6272 View Post
OPPS I must apologize I meant to say leave the thinner out and only use the hardener. It works very well.
Good, you had me worried!!
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  #75 (permalink)  
Old 01-22-2013, 02:07 PM
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Engine paint

I really must apologize. It has been a number of years since I have painted urethane over enamel and I plain got mixed up. The reducer used in the urethane paint is much stronger than enamel or old lacquer for that matter, it will eat through the underpaint and lift---bad! So use 1 part clear and 1 part hardener and you will be ok. Remember do a small test panel first to ensure the paint will not lift. No if memory serves me, I'm in the middle side of 60, you can really pour on or I should say heavy coat the clear mixed this way and it should not run. I have intentionally orange peeled the paint and it flows together nice. Takes a long time to cure unless you use heated lamps, then paint it like normal don't lay it on really thick. Medium coats will work fine. And the finish is smooth like glass.
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