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  #76 (permalink)  
Old 01-22-2013, 02:57 PM
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I copy & pasted this too so I can show my body shop guy. Been studying and haven't been able to go but I hope to go tomorrow and I appreciate everybody's posts.

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  #77 (permalink)  
Old 01-22-2013, 04:25 PM
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The body shop guy will more than likely tell you it can't be done. My dad was a fender bender for 40 years. I learned most of my skills from him. When I went to his shop to do my clear work he was fit to be tied. "that will never work" of course he said it in a much different manner, in any case I did what I did, and by the way the guy who told me how to do this is Jon Kosmoski, you may be familiar with his name, he had a shop that was called the House of Kolor in Minneapolis at 26th and 26th. Jon is a great guy and used to hand out information all the time. He had a layout/stripper named Dave Bell and they did killer paint in the late 60's and early 70's. I think the House of Kolor is still at the original place, but Jon sold his formulas to Valspar. So when you get HOK paint now it comes from Valspar. Still the same great product though. I was a lucky young man to be "taught" by the best custom painter of his time. So tell the body shop guy to give it a try on a test piece. Don't let him argue just tell him to try it.
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  #78 (permalink)  
Old 01-22-2013, 05:05 PM
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Never been in Minneapolis but I'll take your word for it . My body shop guy is pretty cool and is always willing to try new things.
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:32 PM
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I have been painting my engines with a brush for years.I just painted my 350 and turbo 350 for my T bucket with tractor supply enamel with hardener in it.It lays out very smooth and you have very little cleanup or wasted paint.I haven't used "engine enamel" in many years. Many of the guys on that"traditional" website agree with my method:
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 39 chev View Post
I have been painting my engines with a brush for years.I just painted my 350 and turbo 350 for my T bucket with tractor supply enamel with hardener in it.It lays out very smooth and you have very little cleanup or wasted paint.I haven't used "engine enamel" in many years. Many of the guys on that"traditional" website agree with my method:
What a coincidence. My neighbor is an older fellow and he just told me the same thing about Tractor Supply paint about an hour ago!
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:52 PM
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Engine painting

Brush painting works great also. As you know first you must have a very good brush to lay the paint on evenly and with out or with minimal brush marks. The paint will flow well enough to give you a nice smooth finish. You gotta have a slower drying paint so it flows and fills in the brush marks. I have also used brushes to touch up Harley Davidson frames where they get some abuse from road junk, and also where the older models would dump battery acid onto the frame from the overflow tube that was not installed properly. Sure it works very well.I still believe in spray painting my engine components. Some times you would do this to match the outside paint, the body paint.
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  #82 (permalink)  
Old 01-23-2013, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by dbrow6272 View Post
Brush painting works great also. As you know first you must have a very good brush to lay the paint on evenly and with out or with minimal brush marks. The paint will flow well enough to give you a nice smooth finish. You gotta have a slower drying paint so it flows and fills in the brush marks. I have also used brushes to touch up Harley Davidson frames where they get some abuse from road junk, and also where the older models would dump battery acid onto the frame from the overflow tube that was not installed properly. Sure it works very well.I still believe in spray painting my engine components. Some times you would do this to match the outside paint, the body paint.
Try a few drops of acrylic or urethane catalyst in the brush enamel. My experience is that it will harden any enamel that it is put into. Do a test patch first though.
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  #83 (permalink)  
Old 01-23-2013, 05:40 PM
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Always when you paint over rattlecan paint you want to test drive it first. You most certainly do not want to start painting the block, get half finished and see the paint you just meticulusly brushed on peeling the rattle can paint off of the block.
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  #84 (permalink)  
Old 03-02-2013, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by bsa_bob View Post
I would get that paint out of the enginethats not a good thing!It will evntually break down,and may travel to the oil pump; via the lifter vally drain holes etc. I just would not do this. You've never seen a engine painted inside have you.? This is definetely for this reason. looks good now ... no-run tomorrow
That's what that glytol is made for,sealing the inside of electric motors.
People have been using it inside lifter galleys to aid oil return since long before I was around without problems,they also use it to seal the inside of those porous *** Harley Davidson engine/trans castings
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  #85 (permalink)  
Old 03-02-2013, 03:35 PM
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What do you guys recommend for painting air cooled aluminum motorcycle engines that will last?
I like the wrinkle paint on engine cases but want something that lasts more than a season without having to be stripped and redone,The powder coating guy I use for stuff here locally says he can powder coat the cases to look that way but Im not sure how well it will hold up
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zmaxmotorsports View Post
That's what that glytol is made for,sealing the inside of electric motors.
People have been using it inside lifter galleys to aid oil return since long before I was around without problems,they also use it to seal the inside of those porous *** Harley Davidson engine/trans castings
GE glyptol red. I've used it for years, and it never breaks down if the engine is clean when you apply it.
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zmaxmotorsports View Post
What do you guys recommend for painting air cooled aluminum motorcycle engines that will last?
I like the wrinkle paint on engine cases but want something that lasts more than a season without having to be stripped and redone,The powder coating guy I use for stuff here locally says he can powder coat the cases to look that way but Im not sure how well it will hold up
I don't know about wrinkle, but I used Krylon satin black engine paint for the black parts of the engine on my CR480, and it held up well. The key is prep work! Needs to be super clean, and lightly sanded, then cleaned again. I spray the parts down with brake cleaner and let them sit overnight to dry well. Then spray them, and let them dry well before getting them near dirt or oil.
Engine parts get pretty warm on a bike, so need to use the proper paint or it will flake off.
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  #88 (permalink)  
Old 03-02-2013, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1971BB427 View Post
I don't know about wrinkle, but I used Krylon satin black engine paint for the black parts of the engine on my CR480, and it held up well. The key is prep work! Needs to be super clean, and lightly sanded, then cleaned again. I spray the parts down with brake cleaner and let them sit overnight to dry well. Then spray them, and let them dry well before getting them near dirt or oil.
Engine parts get pretty warm on a bike, so need to use the proper paint or it will flake off.
I used Harley krinkle paint on my Heritage not happy $38 per 16 oz spray bomb,as 71BB427 said i have used the GE electric motor paint for years in lifter vakkey and inside block above crank to help oil drainback IT works and stays on even with heat and abuse of dirt track racind
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  #89 (permalink)  
Old 03-03-2013, 05:23 PM
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I uses Eastwood High-temp-ceramic engine paint (Quart)-$34.99 I PAINT ALL MY ENGINES WITH IT-for about 6 years now.I paint mine with a brush it will paint 4 engines 2 coats -I want uses anything but this paint-I painted the 63 nova engine with it check it out
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Old 05-24-2013, 08:51 PM
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makes sure you have the block thoroughly cleaned of all dirt grease and grime. its good to either pressure wash it down with a strong engine degreaser first. I like to use carb cleaner after I do that with a stiff brush, then I wipe it down several times with a good prep solvent and let it air dry.
Personally I just use the dupli -color straight out the can, light coats until I get a smooth consistent color coat. Whether you like to use clear on top of the color I believe is personal choice. I never use the clear unless its a trailer queen.
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