I currently have my engine out & am getting ready to paint it. It's been cleaned and its down to bare metal in some places. Do I need to prime it with high temp. primer or just go ahead & shoot it with regular hi temp. engine paint?
Duplicolor makes a rattle can system that has primer, color and clear. All high temp engine paint. I like it close to the Eastwood stuff that you have to spray with a gun. Just depends on how pretty you want it.
Just painted my Cadillac block with DupliColor engine primer and enamel. The inside red color is Glyptal, not really necessary but I had a can of it so why not.
I did mine today, as a matter of fact. I used the Eastwood stuff, with hardener, sprayed with touch up gun. Did aluminium intake as well as the rest of the motor, No primer.
I would suggest you use aerosol stripper to get all of the old paint off.
I have had the best luck with catalyzed auto body enamel in terms of durability. I have not seen the rattle can stuff stay on more than a year or 3.
The "rattle can stuff" stays on just fine ....if you use a good quality paint made for the application and do the proper prep work before painting. Not eveyone has a compressor and spray gun to paint a block and related parts.
I just bought a can of Rust Oleum engine spray paint at Walmart to learn a little about painting an engine. I have to start somewhere and figure it's the easiest and cheapest way in case I mess up.
heres your best answer i would just ad dp-90 let it set 30 minutes then lay your epoxy color. it will be there longer than rattle can.although as was said her earlier/ engine paint doesn't need to be heat proof paint. But non of it stays nice. believe this i know after half my 20 some builds bob s
I just recently stripped my block of all the chevy orange. It was Aervoe engine enamel. I used the Jasco Premium Paint and Epoxy remover (from home depot) with wire brushes and steel wool and it took all day to strip the block and heads....and there was no primer. It was on there.
When I repainted I used Duplicolor engine primer first and then Aervoe again. Important thing is to make sure the parts are clean clean clean. Dont touch them with your fingers after you clean clean clean.
If you decide to use primer first, put it on SPARINGLY...almost semi translucent...just enough to cover. Regards.
Like 4 jaw said, you dont NEED it......as described in my previous post that paint was on there due to the rough surface and good prep work with no primer.
If you decide you are more comfortable with primer first use high temp engine primer but dont cake it on there as I previously decsribed.
I used it this time to see if there would be any difference. So far so good. Seems the color coat went on a little smoother and the 'high spots', like the pointy tips of the rough parts of the casting didn't pop thru the color coat like they did before with no primer.
Thanks for all your replies. Very reassuring to get this much feedback so quickly. That being said, my son still felt more comfortable using primer so we went with the hi temp primer & then painted. Looks great. Now its time for reass'y.
Thanks for all your replies. Very reassuring to get this much feedback so quickly. That being said, my son still felt more comfortable using primer so we went with the hi temp primer & then painted. Looks great. Now its time for reass'y.
Surprised no one mentioned POR paints. I brushed on POR Chevy orange on my 350 and it's holding up great. I was able to get the thickness of coverage I wanted and it really didn't take that long.
Last time I did a small block chevy, I used Imron orange. Man that stuff is the shizzznit!!!! Get any dirt or grease on it and it just wipes off, and shines.
Last time I did a small block chevy, I used Imron orange. Man that stuff is the shizzznit!!!! Get any dirt or grease on it and it just wipes off, and shines.
I used Imron once years ago on a hot rod motor, worked great. I m thinking its much the same as the Eastwood with the hardner. If that holds up as good as the Imron Ill be thrilled!
I'm not sure what the original color was, but I'm painting the Chevy engine in my Terraplane using "Stove bright" spray rattle cans. Right now I'm leaning toward a very dark green body color, so their " metallic forest green" , on the small amount of the block that will show, looks like a winner to me. I've used Stove bright several times on jobs as a house painter with great results. No primer, just make sure everything's clean.
Just painted my Cadillac block with DupliColor engine primer and enamel. The inside red color is Glyptal, not really necessary but I had a can of it so why not.
I would get that paint out of the enginethats not a good thing!It will evntually break down,and may travel to the oil pump; via the lifter vally drain holes etc. I just would not do this. You've never seen a engine painted inside have you.? This is definetely for this reason. looks good now ... no-run tomorrow :nono:
I would get that paint out of the enginethats not a good thing!It will evntually break down,and may travel to the oil pump; via the lifter vally drain holes etc. I just would not do this. You've never seen a engine painted inside have you.? This is definetely for this reason. looks good now ... no-run tomorrow :nono:
That's what that glytol is made for,sealing the inside of electric motors.
People have been using it inside lifter galleys to aid oil return since long before I was around without problems,they also use it to seal the inside of those porous *** Harley Davidson engine/trans castings
I would get that paint out of the enginethats not a good thing!It will evntually break down,and may travel to the oil pump; via the lifter vally drain holes etc. I just would not do this. You've never seen a engine painted inside have you.? This is definetely for this reason. looks good now ... no-run tomorrow :nono:
That inside is painted with Glyptal, thats painted for oil control. Used extensively in racing applications. There are a couple of threads here on it. Don't worry, it's not coming off.!!
I Know this is an OLD post but as you said to the above post I also paint the inside valley with Glyptal Gray designed for electric motor after gringing valley smooth and chamfering drain backs and I useepoxy to hold in drain back screens to catch any debris,,needlebearing from roller rockers or broken studs or pushrods ,metal chips in oil pump not good ,,as do all racers in this area,
just a side not after cleaning the block as clean as possible I use a heat gun and a hand held propane torch to remove ALL signs of grease ,oil or FINGERPRINTS before painting POR 15 is a great choice there is not a chemical that I have found that will remove it, one of my recent builds
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