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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 02-12-2010, 04:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickracer
All I'm saying is timing may have a little to do with the chamber getting hot enough to create hot spots, but it's usually retarded timing that causes that kind of heat, not too advanced, either way, once you turn the key off, timing is completely out of the picture, because there is no timing with the key off.
I agree.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 02-12-2010, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airboat
raw water pump was meant to suck cold water from the lake. I don't know if it's going to handle 180 degrees F, Boats use a normal waterpump to circulate the hot water.
I'm still working on the issue. I'm trying to get the system to work with just the high flow water pump because I've asked numerous guys with a rear radiator setup and it seems what I have should work. It's just a matter of bleeding the system properly. I'm trying some of there advice and will see how it all goes.
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Old 02-12-2010, 05:14 PM
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You need a burp tank to be above the highest part of your cooling system. The bottom of the burp tank must run into the inlet side of your water pump. Thus when an air bubble runs by the void it will be filled with water from the burp tank. Then the highest part of your cooling system needs to bleed off into the top of your burp tank. Thus all air will be separated from the water and only water will exit your burp tank.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 02-12-2010, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickracer
Remember the idle speed solenoids of the late 70s and 80?
Sure do. I had one toggled, set to hold my launch RPM because I didn't want to spend for a box.

Had a Subaru w/the anti run-on valve. Removed it and it did do a couple 'chugs' before dying- I ended up putting it back in.

But yeah- no fuely, no runny.
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Old 02-12-2010, 05:35 PM
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This isn't too likely to be an issue, but you will obviously want to avoid cavitation by turning the pump w/too much RPM- like overdrive pulleys.

All in all, the entire distance involved seems like a lot for a water pump to handle by itself. Do you suppose smaller ID tubing going to and from might help?
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 02-12-2010, 05:42 PM
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I would not really think the raw water pump for a boat motor will move enough water to cool the engine. Like it was said, marine engines use a normal circulating pump to move cooling water around, and the raw water pump supplies enough cold lake water to control the engine temperature. The engine water temperature is actually controlled by exchanging hot water for cold. Also, the impeller in a marine raw water pump was designed to run cold water, and it will lose a lot of its pumping ability if you made it pump 200 degree water.
I believe the raw water pump on my boat should move about 20 gallons of water a minute, at 3000 engine RPM. Maybe one of you Ford gurus knows about how much water the circulating pump on a 5.7, or 5.8 V8 actually moves. I suspect it is more than 20 gallons a minute, but I could be wrong.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 02-12-2010, 06:28 PM
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FWIW- Someone said the stock water pump flows about 10 gall/min/1000 RPM- give or take- and obviously the engine output, radiator type, design and location, ambient temp and airflow will all have something to do w/the efficiency of the system.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2010, 08:15 AM
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I wasn't talking about replacing the regular pump with a raw water pump, just putting it inline. It uses a rubber impeller, but all the hoses are rubber too,
The raw water pump supplies ALL the cooling water to the circulating pump, then it goes out the exhaust, at least on Chevy based marine engines. It may go through the exhaust manifold first to preheat it, then through the regular cooling system, then out the elbows on top of the manifolds, I don't remember the specifics off the top of my head, but the point is that the raw water pump supplies ALL of the cooling water to the system, pulling it UP from the body of water, through the lower unit, to the motor. I'm certain it would move enough volume for a closed cooling system, but I think, like V8 Super Beetle, that the stock, or high volume, regular circulating pump should do the job without any help. I have modified a pump by tacking a steel disc on the back of the impeller, and double gasketing the rear cover, much like the "Flow Cooler" mod sold by the company of the same name. It worked VERY well.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2010, 10:19 AM
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I also think the stock pump should do the job. Steam from hot spots in the head can be created so it's not just initial air removal that you need to worry about with a more complex cooling system like rear mount or like on an airboat. burp tanks WORK!
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Old 02-13-2010, 10:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
This isn't too likely to be an issue, but you will obviously want to avoid cavitation by turning the pump w/too much RPM- like overdrive pulleys.

All in all, the entire distance involved seems like a lot for a water pump to handle by itself. Do you suppose smaller ID tubing going to and from might help?
I agree. The size I have now is 1.5". Maybe even 1" would help, but I've already invested so much time and money in the setup the way it is now. Hopefully I'm able to resolve the problems I'm having. We'll see...
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2010, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airboat
I also think the stock pump should do the job. Steam from hot spots in the head can be created so it's not just initial air removal that you need to worry about with a more complex cooling system like rear mount or like on an airboat. burp tanks WORK!
I hope so. I'll look into the burp tank(s).
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2010, 11:16 PM
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No chance you have a reverse rotation WP?

Some are more omnidirectional than others, but some are down right one way or no decent flow at all.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2010, 07:52 PM
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years ago a friend of mine put a mild 350 in an imported pickup.
i don't remember the make, but the engine compartment was pretty small, and even with moving the firewall back a little there wasn't enough room for the radiator.
so he mounted the radiator in the bed with an electric fan.
he was going to use 1 1/2 inch rubber hoses, but i felt like it would cause too much of a restriction with such long runs.
he took it to an exhaust shop and they were able to bend some exhaust pipe and run it along the frame up into the bed.
he went with either 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 inch pipe from the water pump to the radiator and back. the shop made up some reducers for the ends of the pipe and he connected them to the radiator and motor with standard radiator hoses. the pipe to pipe joints were all slip fitted and brazed.
each pipe was 2 pieces with radiator hose joining them about mid way between the motor and radiator. the exhaust shop put a bubble flare on all the ends where radiator hose was going to be used.
it came out looking really good.
he didn't have any problems with it overheating.
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