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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2006, 02:27 PM
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Well the 194 is really too small to do much with. I could make it louder but 3k rpm at freeway speeds is a bit much for a daily driver. I guess I could try a 250 but I need the oil pan and pick up tube. And then what guarantee do I have that I can finally use my overdrive with it? (That's another story) I'd really rather be certain that I have enough power to move a 3000 lb car with 3:36 gears, 25.3" diameter tires at 65-70mph and get around 20 mpg.


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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2006, 02:43 PM
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There are several good engine shops in the Bay Area. Rebuilding engines is still done and will continue to be done. I personally build my own engines, you vcan't always get what you want in a crate. If you are looking for a stock style rebuild, then talk to you local "REAL" parts store, many of them have machine shops and if not sell parts to the local engine builders and can point you in the right direction.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2006, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by farna
Go with a known good builder for a crate replacement engine. Someone like Jasper. Sure, you'll hear a few horror stories about Jasper engines. Fact is that they build thousands of engines a year -- there will be an occasional problem with ANYTHING built in large numbers. Percentages work in your favor -- that loud complaint is likely one in several thousand that had a problem. It's a known fact that pleased people won't say a thing, but tick someone off...

If were just a few percent of what they (Jasper and others), even that would mean dozens or hundreds of problems a month.........

Those in the know (I count my self as one of them) would say that the production engine rebuilder failure rate is more in the 12-18 percent range. Which greatly increases the odds of getting an engine that will be a problem. If that happens, then one has to go through the warrantee process.

We quit selling crates and remans because we were having problems with way too many to justify the time we had in processing warrantees, not to mention the PO'd customers.

Even crate engines by "reputable" builders such as Bill Mitchell can be questionable, I've seen bad ones myself.

If one can't do the work oneself, it may pay to find a car club nearby and talk to the members. Chances are there is somebody who is more than willing and able to help a guy out.


Last edited by machine shop tom; 12-13-2006 at 02:57 PM.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2006, 03:49 PM
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I have personally seen 2 new Jasper ford 4.6s drop the exact same exhaust valve within a 1 month time. Less than 2 weeks per motor.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2006, 06:14 PM
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We only do custom builds at my shop. In my opinion, "crate" engines are a compromise. You can't build one engine that will work in a 3,000 lb car with 4.xx gears and a 4000 lb car with 2.xx gears. There are too many variables. My customers tell me what their goals are and we meet or exceed them. Anyone who thinks that a single engine combination will work in all or most applications is kidding themselves. Just say "NO" to crate engines.

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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 12-14-2006, 09:09 AM
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well, for performance use, anything but a mild hop-up, the Jasper and such isn't a good idea, I'll have to admit that. I've only dealt with buying a long block (but not a complete engine), and then double checked the bearing clearances (well, one rod and one main -- since they were correct the others SHOULD be...) and retorqued the bottom end and the heads. Didn't have any problems with it, but it was a stock rebuild w/a factory performance cam. 350 w/Edel Performer intake and 650 cfm carb. So it was a mild engine, and the guy didn't run it hard either.

If I were buying an engine to drop in and run I'd get one of the OEM crate engines. I haven't heard of any of them failing. The production rebuilds I would have to check as I did before. I've seen one that a rod bolt failed on. Most likely wasn't torqued properly, though no guarantees that's what it was. I'm just not comfortable running an engine that I haven't at least checked the torque on the rods/mains/heads. I prefer to get short block so the heads don't need to come off to check bore and piston clearances before installing.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 12-14-2006, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by johnsongrass1
I would miss your rather pleasurable post's. Please don't die.
Thank you for the sentiment. I'll sure try to stick it out.

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