2Yr Old post still going strong. Restore must do something right. LOL!
I've used it in many engines from my 1939 Ford/Ferguson 9N tractor to my newest vehicle. The 9N tractor reqiured non detergent oil which is impossible to find so I started using detergent oil & it started smoking soon after. So I tried Restore and it stopped smoking. I've used it in my engines for at least 15yrs. I have found that if you add it to the oil and immediatly run the engine up to Operating Temp. Then let the Eng. cool & not use it for a week or 2 it works amazingly better. Why? The only reason I can think of is it adhears & penetrates the cylinder walls scratches more deeply. The 1st time I tried this with the 9N I let it sit for about 4 weeks after adding the blue goo. Damn thing hasn't smoked or used oil since. I haven't notice any gumming or sludge in my engines. They seem cleaner from less blowby. I say if it's a high mileage tired ride try it. If it doesn't work try a Rering kit.

SSedan64, if you need some non-detergent oil, I think most Fred's stores have some 40w on the shelf. They also have 30w, but it's high-detergent (rated SL), but the 40w at the stores where I work is all rated SA.

I suspect it's made by Warren Oil Co., the makers of Coastal products, but I can't be sure. I've been using the SL 30w in my vehicles for a few years now with no problems. Warren's site shows that they make ND 30w oil also.

302Z28 That last post you made is right on the money.They all work somewhat and very temporary.

Band-aid on a bullet hole, Stay Together Please

Shane

Mechanic in a can!!!!LOL

yes you can pour something from a can and replace worn iron and bearing material to provide for longer engine life. ????????????? If it does do anything its a bandaid for a gunshot. hello? think about what its supposed to be doing. Waste of money.

amazing!
2+ years and nobody posted what is actually in Engine Restore to explain how it can be a "helper" (not a fix or a cure just a helper).....for rings seal/bearing wear/piston slap/worn valve guides/etc.....

the 'magic' ingredient "CSL" is a small amount of 2 to 16 micron size particles of "C"opper (59%)-"S"ilver (1%) and "L"ead (40%) so it can pass thru the filter...(so do shake hell out of the can before opening and I say: add it to a hot motor that is running so bearing clearances etc are at max )

(this next part....I do wonder about...."but".... there are so many extreme pressure points in a running engine..."something"...will grind/compress them down even smaller to fill even smaller voids)
"the copper/silver/lead particles are loosely bound together in a consistency of a "malted milk ball"....so they can be compressed and broken down further to fill smaller and smaller voids"

can a very "mallable" copper/silver/lead particle be forced into a scratch or coat a worn surface to build it up with extreme pressures applied...YUP!

here's my latest testimonial/success because it is a little different:

Did EVERY normal test possible over the past year to pin down the source of a irratating clacking (to much clearance?) noise only at idle and only with the motor hot on my recent mild build....(next PIA test was going to be remove the windage tray to be sure one or more of floating pins wasn't starved for 15W-40 oil at 40psi idle...not likely/didn't test as a pin problem)

With the motor running and hot and clacking away....added a can of Engine Restore....clacking quit totally by the time the can was empty....hasn't come back at all in 2 months/500 miles

(So some of the CSL particles DID get thru the filter and stick to the problem part.....my guess is...it is behaving as a super duper "EP" additive for this problem....flat tappet motors "love" EP additives)

(Makes me wonder what the "magic" additive is in the new "High Mileage" oils)

there is no fix in a can for a worn out motor but this stuff can be a helper

It seems like a lot of people are missing the point of this product. It is a band aid product and there is NOTHING wrong with that! Just a quick example. Lets say your car starts smoking real bad, and you still have to drive 20 miles to work every day. You have no money or time to rebuild your engine right now but you still have to go to work. So you pour a $8 can of engine restorer in and your good for another month or so. Are you telling me its not worth the $8 to not get a ticket? Your buying time and I don't see how anyone could call that a waste of money.

Jordon

Copper and lead are wear metals that can, and do, show up on most any used oil analysis. Since those wear metals come off of bearings why would we think that adding more copper and lead via Restore will stick when the wear metals themselves don't reattach?

It's just as good as putting duct tape around a exhaust leak.LOL Just use 50wt oil.LOL I really don't think a $8.00 can is gone to save your motor. If that's the case they would have a lot of mechanic out of business.

I did this once, it lasted about a week!

The above statement, I would agree with. Time to give this thread the attention it deserves.

this is the kind of results they are getting in the uk:
http://www.americantechnology.co.uk...monials-4-w.asp

anyone in the USA or Canada brave enough to post before and after HC CO Co2 and compression results? thanks

altho this thread got dug up. I'll comment... I use engine restore in my '65 Rambler. the motor is worn out badly, and burns a quart per week.. with or without restore, the engine runs the same, I put it in, just because.. but I also dump Marvel mystery oil down the carb every once and a while, and that seems to do more- but that is because the valves are no good.. I also run no smoke ( which does not help ) and STP. so I cannot give you a compression test, as it wouldn't be accurate

what is high detergent and non detergent oil? what is detergent? (spell check)