Originally Posted by inkfreak1976
no i dont have a return line ok yea ill check on that in the morning and see if the oil has fuel in it.
if i have to much psi will i be able to see it in the site glass has more gas than where i have it set at or is it forcing it self into the motor. i did rebuild the carb not to long ago i bought a demon rebuild kit. also whats it mean when i turn the idle mixture screws in and it doesnt kill the motor? i also have a holley 850 carb that is brand new that a friend let me barrow do you think i shud try that out and see if there is a difference with the idle mixture screws.
can you also tell me if i am correct on my timing knowledge. I have a pertronix billet dist for a small block chevy which also has vacuum advance but i dont use that. im not sure how much mechanical advance the dist has with out any advance stoppers but i think its 24 deg. so lets say i have my initial timing set at 20 deg. then i take the 20 + 24 mechanical advance to give me a total of 42 degrees total. and depending on where all that advance comes in at RPM range has to do with the springs you use. Is this correct. So this is what i am running 20 degress initial at idle and i have a 12 degree mechanical advance stopper that only lets the advance go to 12 degrees. so then with 20 + 12 i get a total timing of 32. Is this Correct? Do you think that Is a good starting point for timing with all the engine specs i gave you?
this is what i would do, i would take your timeing back to 0 deg on your cam, get your fuel issues fixed. and see how you run. once you have a couple hundred miles on the engine. slowly advance your timeing to get the tune you want. and i would also invest in a spark advance mod like a msd or pertronics box. and run high octain fuel. i was noticing what you posted about your valve and cam deg. and your exhaust is not bleeding off at all for that high of compression. i know its a pain in the *** but take it to zero match the marks at 0 and then tune you carb. i know that the car runs but, with the headers glowing hot and the problems with the rpm and carb. youd be better off sstarting from a factory seting then seeing how you run, then advance your tune in slow incraments sometimes going full blast when building a block can bite you in the *** and leave you with big head achs.
this is how i build my stuff, and run it. unless you have a dyno and some one that knows hoow to tune. setting your timeing that far advanced then putting it in the car and hopeing that who ever gave you the advice is right is a huge gamble. youve done alot of work on this engine and invested alot of money take it in steps and go slow. and remember what works for one builder doesnt always work for another. good luck and keep me up to dat of what you plan on doing and be very detailed how you do things i or someone else can help easyer.