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Old 07-01-2006, 03:51 PM
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engine run-on

I have turned the idle down to 400RPM and moved the timing back to 5* BTDC, but it didn't seem to stop the run on after the key is turned off. This engine has about 8K miles and all new parts 350ci Chevy Aluminum heads and 10:0 cr mild cam Holley 600.
I don't think the carbon has had time too build because of all the WOT runs!! What am I overlooking?
Thanks

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Old 07-01-2006, 04:04 PM
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Woaaa bump your idle back up to the appropriate setting, 400 is wayyy too low. Timing seems pretty low as well. What octane gas are you using?
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Old 07-01-2006, 04:09 PM
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I only turned the idle down to 400 too see that the butterflies were closed, I have it set to 750 and no changes. I have been running mid grade fuel, I will try the good stuff, how about a couple ounces of Acetone with a tank full!!
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Old 07-01-2006, 04:15 PM
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I assume by mid grade you mean 89? I had the same problem on mine, I got away with running 89 octane since my block is relatively low compression, didn't ping but the downside is that it would act like a diesal once in a while after I would shut it off, running on for nearly 15 seconds at one time Kind of a helpless feeling really just waiting for your motor to finally just stop. Stepping up to 93 octane should cure your problem.
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Old 07-01-2006, 07:13 PM
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Switching off the ignition while the transmission is still in gear will stop the engine instantly.
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Old 07-01-2006, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xntrik
Switching off the ignition while the transmission is still in gear will stop the engine instantly.
how good is this for the engine though?
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Old 07-02-2006, 09:50 AM
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I tried to stop the engine by turning off the key while in gear with my foot on the brake but it sounds and jerks like there is more damage being done that just letting it run on !!!
I changed the fuel and only had a few stops to make yesterday with the air on and the ambient 103* it did not diesel. I will try today and see how it reacts to the 93 octane, so far so good, if it works I will add a little more lead to the distributor.
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Old 07-02-2006, 12:59 PM
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How are you cooling your engine? Are you using after market electric fans?

I installed a couple of electric fans on my truck and developed the same problem. I could turn the key off, remove it, and exit the truck before it would finally shut off.

My problem was that I hooked the power feed for the primary fan to ignition power....so when I turned the key off there was just enough juice being produced by the fan still turning to keep the distributor firing for a short time.

I added a relay into the equation and the problem stopped.
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Old 07-02-2006, 01:56 PM
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re engine run on

Just use 1/2 regular & 1/2 premium in your tank & not only well your problem go away but you'll have raised your octane above 93 & it's cheaper than running just good stuff all by it self It's an old trick but if you can't find 102 octane or higher this doe's for a lot less $ and than racing fuel. This trick has been written about a lot of car magazine's Good luck and don't be afraid to play around with the mix it doesn't always have to be a 50/50 mix Tell us how you do
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Old 07-02-2006, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe350s10
How are you cooling your engine? Are you using after market electric fans?

I installed a couple of electric fans on my truck and developed the same problem. I could turn the key off, remove it, and exit the truck before it would finally shut off.

My problem was that I hooked the power feed for the primary fan to ignition power....so when I turned the key off there was just enough juice being produced by the fan still turning to keep the distributor firing for a short time.

I added a relay into the equation and the problem stopped.

Excellent JOE, thanks. I had forgotten about that, saw it before.

ChevelleSS =
Turning the engine off while still in gear should do nothing to harm the engine or transmission. It should turn off cleanly and instantly.

Solidaxel = If you is experiencing any unusual noise or vibrations at shut off in gear you should seek the source of that problem.

SNICK= mixing half regular (87) and half premium (93) will NOT make your octane above 93. At exact proportions it will make it 90. Just because it has been written about does not make it true. Do some research with the gas engineers and you will see that this belief is false. They don't make 93 octane by putting LESS additive into it, so diluting it further will not make the octane higher.

No extra charge for these

Octane additives= If you read the verbage very very carefully on the containers (it is written by lawyers), you will see that the maximum dose of octane booster will raise 91 octane gasoline to 91.8 octane. Hardly worth several dollars per tankful.

Rhetorical question for the masses: You can build a 420 hp engine with a fuel problem or a 400 hp engine that will run on 87 octane swill, why would you want to push the detonation limits at these ever escalating gasoline prices?...... $ 4 per gallon is only months away in 2009 after the elections.
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Old 07-02-2006, 02:41 PM
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Classix Lover, I guess you get the prize!!!
I sure hate it when these youngsters (18 ) come up with the right answer !!!!!
After playing with Chevys for over 50 years why didn't I think if that first!!!
I have been out most of the day long trips short trips in and out 6 or 7 times, the ambient is a little cooler 95 but the engine has been staying in the same temp 190* same as last week. I know everything is the same except the advance, will work on that later. The engine did not diesel once! I guess I will just have too step up for the 3.00 gal fuel, the price you pay to have fun. Yes it does have two electric fans Condenser and Rad and both are on relays, I know that electric motor trick, thanks for reminding me.
Thanks for all the help guys, and keep up the good work !!
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Old 07-02-2006, 02:48 PM
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Sooo when are you gonna mail me this prize?? It might diesal for like 1 second after a while of flawless shut downs but that's just it working out the rest of the lower octane so run on 93 for about 2 weeks and if it doesn't diesal anymore, than it's safe to say that was your problem. I felt pretty dumb after something as simple as a lower octane was causing my diesal run on problem but live and learn. Paying about 10 cents more isn't a big deal really. I'm just wondering when fuel will go down again but doubtful unless they build more oil rigs! Ahhh I hate our ignorant government.
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Old 07-02-2006, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solidaxel
I have turned the idle down to 400RPM and moved the timing back to 5* BTDC, but it didn't seem to stop the run on after the key is turned off. This engine has about 8K miles and all new parts 350ci Chevy Aluminum heads and 10:0 cr mild cam Holley 600.
I don't think the carbon has had time too build because of all the WOT runs!! What am I overlooking?
Thanks

So you have been running a high compression engine with a mild cam on low octane fuel.. hhhmmmmmm

K.I.S.S.,,,,,,, never overlook the obvious.
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Old 07-02-2006, 04:08 PM
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re engine run on

your probably right.I'm not the smartest guy on the planet but I know this works surprisingly well with my own Riggs & race cars(I prefer run racing fuel in the later)Sorry to wast your time with my stupid idea.It's just it's alway's worked for my friend's & I better than premium witch is only 92 up here I hope you can find some good help with this being I don't seam to know what I'm talking about. Good luck & Please let me know what you come up with
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Old 07-02-2006, 05:19 PM
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re engine run on

Look I was just trying to help like everyone eles. If your trying to run above 9.5 compression on pump gas than you truly need help : there are many way's to get that hp and more with lower compression. Oh and yes I've built many in my day not only for myself but for other's & none have died like your's will if you don't correct this problem soon. Good luck I hope your day get's better
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