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Old 11-06-2005, 12:19 PM
jbon64
 
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engine run-in stand

i'm building a engine run stand , i can do all the fab work no problem , but i'm not sure what i'll need in the way of wiring. here's what i'm thinking will work , let me know if i'm wrong or should add . battery - pos to starter neg to frame ,switched hot 12v to hei coil , momentary switch for starter , switch for an electric fan , neg. cable from engine to frame

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Old 11-06-2005, 03:15 PM
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I'm Guessing that you are planning to use this stand for break in?

if you will be running it for any amount of time you will need everything that you need under the hood
cooling system
starter & battery
fuel tank
exhaust with mufflers if you want to actually hear the engine

the stand really isn't that important
if you block up a motor so its flat on the oil pan as long as you dont rap the hell out of it ..it will sit right there

when you start applying torque to it via transmission rear end and tires to the ground with friction then it NEEDS to be mounted to something.


SR66
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Old 11-06-2005, 03:17 PM
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thanks rob , yeah , i already have the details sorted out ....cooling , fuel etc. i'm just not 100% sure how to tackle the wiring
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Old 11-06-2005, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff bonnell
battery - pos to starter neg to frame ,switched hot 12v to hei coil , momentary switch for starter , switch for an electric fan , neg. cable from engine to frame
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Old 11-06-2005, 06:50 PM
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Doc here,

Here's the best way to do this..assuming it's a GM with HEI you want to run..

Battery Positive cable to main solenoid Bolt on starter, Battery Negative Cable to Any handy bolt at or near the starter.

Get a couple of things at wally mart or the auto parts store, 1) a generic Ignition switch,



And 2) A set of real cheap water and oil gauges like $15.00 bucks or so..To match your system senders..

and 3) a 12 volt indicator lamp

Next get a Board, and some angle bracket and mount it to the side or rear of the stand ..well away from rotating parts and heat producing parts..

I'm Assuming you have electric senders and the new gauges to match, If mechanical the same applies..

Get a hole saw and install your gauges and switch, and lamp in the board (now firmly mounted to your stand)

Run a wire from the main terminal of the ignition switch to your battery terminal on the starter solenoid, (I'd use a fuse link here, but since it's test only, your choice..)

Next locate the "Start" terminal on the switch, and run and hook it to the "S" terminal on the starter.

From the solenoid, run a wire from the "R" or "I" terminal to the HEI Battery wire and parallel it in..(This is secondary Ignition) .

Finally the Run side of the switch, run 2 wires, one directly to the HEI battery terminal, the other will daisy chain to your indicator lamp, and the Power side of the gauges..

On the gauges they have, (most have today, some don't, some are 2 post) 3 posts marked S, G and I..stands for sender, Ignition and ground Hook all your I terminals to the indicator lamp 12 volts..

Next run a ground to the other side of the lamp and the "G" side of the gauges from the block..

Then hook up the senders..from the block to the gauge panel..(be sure they match the gauge resistance or the readings will be wrong or not at all)

On the fan circuit, run a wire from the Ignition switch to the fan...then one Back on the Fan ground to the engine block..

If this were for anything else but a short run in test stand, I 'd say use a relay, but in this case, you can run without it..(a main fuse link will cover it, if you install one) The fan will run anytime the key is on..

I didn't include the Alternator, cuz, most folks don't care if it charging or not on a test stand..just that It holds the belt in place...

Use 10 gauge (on the fan and start and HEI circuits) and 18 Gauge for the lamp and gauges..you can also add in-line fuses if you want..use proper crimp terminals for each wire..

I'm also assuming this is a one~Time shot stand..If it is to be a regular thing ... this is bare bones..you can add a lot more..for stability..and long term reliability..but this will get you through an engine break in..

Lastly make sure your battery is in a safe (and preferably covered ) location, so as not to drop tools on the posts, or expose it to header heat..ect..and cause an explosion..BE SAFE..make sure the stand is anchored well, and you have proper venting for the exhaust..

Doc
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Old 11-06-2005, 09:42 PM
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thanks much doc , thats what i needed , a nudge in the right direction .
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Old 11-07-2005, 06:19 AM
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ifm the fan is on the main curcuit as stated the engine will "run on" after the key is switched of. as doc said a relay {or diode} is needed to prevent this
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Old 11-07-2005, 10:15 AM
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Had the pleasure of using a well designed engine run stand for my crate Fastburn. It was setup exactly as Doc advised and was a joy to use. Had a battery tray, radiator, elec fan, gages and ignition switch, and it was on rollers.

Vince
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Old 11-07-2005, 05:51 PM
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nice work doc

what is a "ifm"?

jeff make sure the battery is away from any open flames or sparks ,they are very explosive.

Good luck & post some pictures of your project's project

SR66
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Old 11-07-2005, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Keller
nice work doc

what is a "ifm"?

jeff make sure the battery is away from any open flames or sparks ,they are very explosive.

Good luck & post some pictures of your project's project

SR66
will do , still collecting parts for the motor right now , maybe late this month or mid december i should have it done , i'll post pictures when it's finished
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Old 11-07-2005, 08:33 PM
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Im pretty sure you need some type of load behind the motor too dont you...like a torque converter on a tranny or one of them "water tanks" i think its called. I just remember asking a machine shop what happens if you just run the motor, and they told me it could totally destroy the block.
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Old 11-08-2005, 06:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airman_turtle
Im pretty sure you need some type of load behind the motor too dont you...like a torque converter on a tranny or one of them "water tanks" i think its called. I just remember asking a machine shop what happens if you just run the motor, and they told me it could totally destroy the block.
Absolute nonsense, it will not hurt the engine in the very least, unless you over rev it.

Vince
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Old 11-08-2005, 06:37 AM
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an old camaro clip makes a great stand. has all the mounts for rad and stuff. put a cross bar on the back with a ball hitch and it's portable
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Old 11-08-2005, 02:24 PM
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that is a great ides a sub frame from a old camero or a nova would work

a engine is balanced all by its self its not a good Idea to "free rev " or "RAP" any motor too much they are desinged to work under a load.

the transmission is technically a accessories just like a alternator of power steering pump

now would some one please tell me what the hell a "I F M "is ??????????

p p p lllllllleeeeeeeaaseeeeeeeeee

SR66
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Old 11-08-2005, 02:45 PM
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Just remove the "M", is that better!!
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