Engine running hot!! 210-230 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 09-08-2006, 02:59 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 4
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Engine running hot!! 210-230

Hello - I'm having a little problem with my new (old) 72 Chevy El Camino (350 8 cylinder). I've only had it a couple weeks and the temp gage shows the engine running sometimes over 230 degrees. I had the thermostat replaced today and that didn't make any difference. I live in South Florida and it is pretty hot here. The engine is not boiling over - no steam, stalls sometimes and the HOT light comes on. Any comments/advise? Thanks much.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 09-08-2006, 04:36 PM
fat50chevy's Avatar
New Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisville, Ky.
Age: 64
Posts: 26
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Not being smart here, but have you done a search on the engine forum yet. A little reading of the old post will more than likely answer more questions for you than waiting for someone to jump in. Your problem could be caused by many things.

1. Old radiator (blocked)
2. Air in system
3. Pump
4. Collapsed Hose
5. ON and ON

Again , not being smart but this topic is all over the engine section so you would be way ahead doing a seach. Good Luck
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 09-08-2006, 04:40 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 4
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Not dumb either

Sorry for the question - I am new to this forum and had trouble searching. As you suggested I will find the answer from a previous posting.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 09-08-2006, 05:37 PM
steve t's Avatar
ex biker, now hotrodder
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NC
Age: 64
Posts: 863
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
try some water wetter, it suppose to help,is your fan ok
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 09-08-2006, 05:46 PM
fat50chevy's Avatar
New Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisville, Ky.
Age: 64
Posts: 26
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by pwilcox
Sorry for the question - I am new to this forum and had trouble searching. As you suggested I will find the answer from a previous posting.

No need to be sorry, we all have question???? Just go to the engine forum, click on search, type in any words, ie. hot, over heating , high temp, and click Go. You will get the post that have those words in them.. This is most of the time the best and fastest way to get your answer. I am just trying to help. And welcome to HR.Com
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 09-08-2006, 05:53 PM
Classix_Lover's Avatar
Music soothes the soul
 

Last journal entry: Wiring finished finally
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: League City, TX
Age: 25
Posts: 584
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Multiple things to check for as fat has pointed out. Did you inspect the fan clutch visually/manually to see if it's still good? Check to see if you see any black fluid leaking past the seal and if it is, buy a new one. Manually check it by letting everything warm up properly, take your elky on a short cruise around the neighborhood for about sayyy, 10 minutes. Shut the engine off and go to grab the fan and attempt to turn it. It should be fairly resistant to you turning it but if it slips, chances are the clutch is worn down and needs replacing.

Another thing to check for is the shroud and if you even have one on there. Fan shrouds helps direct air flow through the radiator more efficiently thus providing better cooling. If you don't have a shroud, the fan is basically just blowing air wildly around without any real type of suction effect from the front of the radiator.

Condition of the actual radiator. A couple of tubes could be gummed and filled up with crap and rust over the years, especially if this is a stock radiator. Generally whenever your dealing with the stock radiator, you could take it to a radiator shop to have them clean it out (hot tanking is the term I believe?? Haven't tried this before but a couple of members on here have suggested that.) orrr you could go with buying a replacement aluminum radiator that will drop right into your stock location so you won't have to worry about modifying things drastically to make it fit. Only thing that's bad about this is that direct replacement radiators tend to be a bit on the pricey side but in all fairness, aluminum radiators tend to cool much better than a stock copper radiator so you should see cooling improvements there.

That's just the tip of the iceberg and I wouldn't immediately assume that you need to replace the radiator with a more efficient aluminum one since it's a bit pricey and it might not even be the problem even though it's a large possibility. Do simple checks like the lower radiator hose sucking itself shut at higher rpms or something as simple as burping the system of air bubbles like fat50 mentioned. Those big blocks aren't exactly easy to keep cool.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 09-08-2006, 05:53 PM
runn141's Avatar
SB S10
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location:
Posts: 1,252
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 17
Thanked 13 Times in 13 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by pwilcox
Hello - I'm having a little problem with my new (old) 72 Chevy El Camino (350 8 cylinder). I've only had it a couple weeks and the temp gage shows the engine running sometimes over 230 degrees. I had the thermostat replaced today and that didn't make any difference. I live in South Florida and it is pretty hot here. The engine is not boiling over - no steam, stalls sometimes and the HOT light comes on. Any comments/advise? Thanks much.
high volume waterpump and highflow thermostat and electric fan. and make sure you have atleast a 16lb. radiater cap.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 09-08-2006, 05:56 PM
Classix_Lover's Avatar
Music soothes the soul
 

Last journal entry: Wiring finished finally
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: League City, TX
Age: 25
Posts: 584
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by runn141
high volume waterpump and highflow thermostat and electric fan. and make sure you have atleast a 16lb. radiater cap.
That will do nothing but harm his cooling more than it has already. I cannot stress enough how badly aftermarket electric fans flow. Use a mechanical fan every time unless you simply just cannot fit one in there due to clearance issues and stop listening to the rumors on tv, a proper clutch driven fan setup will not make you lose nearly 20 hp.. Even if it did, I'd still sacrifice the horsepower if I could actually idle in traffic for 40 minutes without worrying about my engine overheating.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 09-08-2006, 06:00 PM
runn141's Avatar
SB S10
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location:
Posts: 1,252
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 17
Thanked 13 Times in 13 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Classix_Lover
That will do nothing but harm his cooling more than it has already. I cannot stress enough how badly aftermarket electric fans flow. Use a mechanical fan every time unless you simply just cannot fit one in there due to clearance issues and stop listening to the rumors on tv, a proper clutch driven fan setup will not make you lose nearly 20 hp.. Even if it did, I'd still sacrifice the horsepower if I could actually idle in traffic for 40 minutes without worrying about my engine overheating.
ive never used one yet i figured it would help having the fan run faster than the engine at low speed. now the water pump and everything else i posted i dont know how it could hurt.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 09-08-2006, 06:14 PM
Classix_Lover's Avatar
Music soothes the soul
 

Last journal entry: Wiring finished finally
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: League City, TX
Age: 25
Posts: 584
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by runn141
ive never used one yet i figured it would help having the fan run faster than the engine at low speed. now the water pump and everything else i posted i dont know how it could hurt.
No the other suggestions are fine, just pointing out the electric fan part. The high flowing water pump and thermostat might help to some extent but won't solve the overheating problem he's been having. It's almost like putting a band aid on someone who's just been shot. But I'm well aware of how bad these aftermarket fans flow.

Before I knew any better (me, not knowing any better? BWAHA ) I was telling my friends a couple years back in auto tech about my overheating at idle problem in traffic since I was using those poopy mechanical flex fans. One of them suggested, "Ohhh yea man, just get some electric fans! They flow better and they're cheap, I've done it before!" I thought really? Thought about it some more and decided to try it out. Well his little "story" was full of holes. The thing that stuck out first was how expensive these little "high flowing" electric fans were! It was insane, 400 bucks just for a little 16 inch fan, it was ridiculous! Found 2 for relatively cheap but still getting a bit high in the dollar range, constructed my own custom mounting plate for them and they are no further than 1/8" away from the radiator. I get excited, rig my switch up to my guage cluster panel, test it, vroooommm! You can hear those fans kick on, awesome! Go to test drive it annnnddd... What do you know.. flows horrriibbllyyy.

I'm still kicking my own arse for wasting my money like that and I still need to get working sometime on my shroud for my new mechanical fan. You think about the blade design too, you look at one of those thin electric fan blades and compare it to a mechanical fan blade and there's no need for a debate on why the mechanical fans just slaughter electric fans in nearly every way. Also at my former job, one of my coworkers mentioned on how his mechanical fan could keep a towel up on the radiator from the immense suction while mine could probably keep no more than a piece of paper up.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 09-08-2006, 06:19 PM
runn141's Avatar
SB S10
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location:
Posts: 1,252
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 17
Thanked 13 Times in 13 Posts
ive always had v8 s10s and i always cutout behind the grill about a 4x6 inch piece a metal it helped it run 10 degrees cooler.other than that id have to look at it.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 09-08-2006, 06:22 PM
Henry Highrise's Avatar
Lost in the 60's
 
Last wiki edit: Removing stuck fasteners Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Dixieland
Age: 69
Posts: 15,182
Wiki Edits: 4

Thanks: 0
Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Sometimes high flow or high volume water pumps move the water through the radiator so fast that the radiator does not have time to cool it properly. Don't rule out a bad radiator cap......each pound of pressure the cap holds adds to the boiling point. A bad cap will cause one to run hot.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 09-08-2006, 06:26 PM
runn141's Avatar
SB S10
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location:
Posts: 1,252
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 17
Thanked 13 Times in 13 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Highrise
Sometimes high flow or high volume water pumps move the water through the radiator so fast that the radiator does not have time to cool it properly. Don't rule out a bad radiator cap......each pound of pressure the cap holds adds to the boiling point. A bad cap will cause one to run hot.
exactly, 3 degrees per pound
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 09-08-2006, 06:47 PM
The Maintenance Geek
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Edge of the earth Washington
Age: 54
Posts: 266
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Can you...

verify the accuracy of the guage??
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 09-08-2006, 08:47 PM
Bryan59EC's Avatar
Car? Truck? Who Cares
 

Last journal entry: First week of December
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Age: 53
Posts: 2,321
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 13 Times in 11 Posts
Tommy---were not you and I both having issues with cooling at about the same time???? And you know that I run electric in the 59. But, you may not know that I have run electric in my 454 C-10, and have done so since the 80's.
(not being a smartiepants, just my preference, I guess.)

Something that has not been suggested to this person is TIMING/ & possible lean condition.

After giving the car more advance and going rich one stage on the carb----
----the temp dropped close to 20*--no kidding.

If it under 100* out, the car will run @ 185-----down from 210 when I first got it licensed.

Last time out @ 101* out---with AC running and at 75mph---under 200*

Bryan
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
2004r's running hot ???? !72chevelless Transmission - Rearend 24 10-08-2006 06:47 AM
Is My 350 Running to hot? KFXrider88 Engine 11 09-09-2006 07:47 PM
Rebuilt SB running HOT mouseman Engine 12 07-10-2006 10:51 AM
breaking in engine, running hot Blob Engine 7 07-14-2005 12:52 PM
Dont waste your time hot rodding and engine unless it has 350 cubes or more? ?? Jim Weeks Engine 14 04-27-2002 11:28 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:49 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.