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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 04-15-2010, 08:20 AM
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Bas news this morning. I went out to take the kids to school. The Jeep started up ok and after starting to warm up it started to sputter and died. I looked at the single point I left in and saw a spark. I used a feeler guage and reset the gap and it fired right up and seemed to be ok but when I get on the road and start moving, it just bogs and sputters.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 04-15-2010, 08:39 AM
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The dual point setup is for the purpose of lengthening the dwell cycle thus increasing the saturation time of the coil. One point overlaps the other increasing the closed time. When you have only one of the other working or the adjustment of either is changed you effectively change the ignition timing as well as the coil saturation time so I would expect the car to run differently after one has been eliminated without some other adjustments being made.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 04-15-2010, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glennsea
Bas news this morning. I went out to take the kids to school. The Jeep started up ok and after starting to warm up it started to sputter and died. I looked at the single point I left in and saw a spark. I used a feeler guage and reset the gap and it fired right up and seemed to be ok but when I get on the road and start moving, it just bogs and sputters.
IIRC, to use one set of points in a dual point distributor, set the primary set of points (first ones to open when the distributor is rotated in the correct direction) to 30 degrees (0.018).

This changes the timing- you have to set the timing AFTER the points are adjusted (or readjusted). When the points are opened further (less dwell), the timing will be advanced from where it was.

G'luck!
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Old 04-15-2010, 10:15 AM
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Cobalt, I don't believe he has a timing light as he didn't have a test light.
If he sets the engine to around 10- perhaps 12 BTC in the timing indicator and then after setting the appropriate gap on the leading points rotates the distributor against the direction of rotation of course after having turned it so the points are closed until the points just open the car should run fairly well...... I think
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Old 04-15-2010, 10:21 AM
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I do having a timing light so this is a good idea. I believe the points I removed were the first to open. They were the ones shorting causing the problems. I will try the timing and let you know.
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Old 04-15-2010, 12:35 PM
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I played with the timing and got it running ok. It seems to be a lot more picking now. I have also not found a good setting as it feels underpower until I hit the upper RPMs. I am thinking that this is when I get through initial advance but maybe I don't know enough about this yet.

I am also trying to figure out what gap setting I should use. The docs for this distributor say .022 for dual and .018 for single. If I removed one then the .022 would have the inccorect dwell time now right? What should I be doing, a bigger gap?
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Old 04-15-2010, 12:42 PM
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Dwell is read as degrees of rotation, .018 is a gap in thousands of an inch. Thats what your looking for
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Old 04-15-2010, 12:50 PM
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This is new to me but it is my understanding that with both points dwell is 33 degrees so now I need to figure what the gap for the single would be to get me back to 33 degrees correct?
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Old 04-15-2010, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glennsea
This is new to me but it is my understanding that with both points dwell is 33 degrees so now I need to figure what the gap for the single would be to get me back to 33 degrees correct?
The single set of points will like 30, or 0.018" to get in the area of 30.
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Old 04-15-2010, 02:36 PM
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I gapp'ed to .018 and cannot seem to get the timing right to run good. I have advanced the dist but can't anymore as the wires are binding. I think I am going to increase the gap back to .022 which will advance the timing then I can retard via the cap and find the right setting. I think the only downside to this is smaller dwell time so not as hot a spark but I am not racing it.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 04-15-2010, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glennsea
I gapp'ed to .018 and cannot seem to get the timing right to run good. I have advanced the dist but can't anymore as the wires are binding. I think I am going to increase the gap back to .022 which will advance the timing then I can retard via the cap and find the right setting. I think the only downside to this is smaller dwell time so not as hot a spark but I am not racing it.
I see what you're saying. Have you tried the "good" set of points and condenser on the other point's position? Set at 0.018"/30?
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 04-15-2010, 02:49 PM
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Reason I ask, is the concern over the phasing of the rotor to the distributor cap terminal, being off.

To check it, you need a timing light and a "windowed" dist. cap (like an old, worn out one) that you use to actually see the relationship of the rotor to the terminal.

More HERE, page 2.
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Old 04-15-2010, 03:05 PM
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I ordered the electronic upgrade kit for it so when it gets here I am doing away with the points. I am trying to get it running good for the next couple of days until those parts get here.

I also called around trying to find replacement points yesterday but no one seems to carry them, mail order only. I don't like being in a situation where I can't get part like this.
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Old 04-16-2010, 08:51 AM
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Just a thought here. On these points the wire inside the dist is a flat band twisted around to fit. This band was rubbing on a screw causing a short. Could I remove this band and replace with a regular wire the same length or even shorter to get around this problem until my parts arrive?
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Old 04-16-2010, 08:55 AM
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But of course Christopher Robin
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