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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2010, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glennsea
On these points the wire inside the dist is a flat band twisted around to fit.
Ahhh- this MAY point (haaa) to them being a Mercury Marine (#391-5090) or GLM (70060) piece, as opposed to the actual Mallory piece.

Crosses to the Mallory 25042(X) used in the 24, 25, 26, 27 Series points-type distributors.

Also GLM # 70060 and Mallory #9-29005 used in marine apps- marine apps have the solid copper strap instead of a wire.


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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2010, 09:37 AM
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Does the length matter? Do I need to math it or would shorter be fine?
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2010, 09:43 AM
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The length from the set screw to the pivot point are important. If the solid electrical lead attaches to a post then it will also be important to match.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2010, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glennsea
Does the length matter? Do I need to math it or would shorter be fine?
If you're talking about the electrical lead- and NOT the steel spring that controls the points' closing, then it doesn't matter if you change the length to a shorter one. Even longer will be OK, just so it's not so long as to alter the resistance significantly.
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Old 04-19-2010, 12:05 PM
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So I never really got it running well with the single point so I installed a second point, re-gapped, adjusted timing, everything was running great. About 2 hours of driving and it started to sputter, etc. and ran like crap.

I checked the point that I installed and it was burned up, almost gone, so timing was changing as I was driving and I could not get it right. I removed that new point and got it running ok.

So what would be causing this one point to go bad like this? It is the same spot that went bad originally. I now have the Electronic conversion kit to do away with the points but I am concerned that something else is going on that should be fixed as well.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 04-19-2010, 12:38 PM
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The first thing that comes to mind is the condenser.

Also, if there should be a resistor wire or ballast resistor- and itís missing, if the key is left on and the points are closed (engine OFF), points adjusted too close (too much dwell).
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Old 04-22-2010, 08:06 PM
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I converted from points to elect, rewired and it runs smooth as a kitten. No issues, stable timing, etc. I'll only go back if there is an EMP event!
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