Originally Posted by EOD Guy
If you are running an HEI, you don't need the resistance wire or the wire from the starter "I" terminal. So...... I would run a new wire from the HEI thru the fire wall (no splice, no bulk head connector) to the run/start position on the ing switch. Eliminate all the old wires and your troubles.
Yup ... EOD has explained the function and purpose of resistance wire and cranking bypass quite well here.
I'm not totally in favor of running an entirely new wire directly to the switch, though. I'd still like to maintain as much of the OE wiring as much as possible if it were mine.
Yes, you will have to eliminate the resistance wire portion, replacing it with standard 16 guage copper wire ... soldered and heat-shrinked. You'll know you have it right when you check the voltage at the coil connector with a multimeter and find a full 12V.
If you do decide to run this wire directly to the ignition switch, I'd suggest that you at least run it in such a way that it's not just some random-colored wire hanging out there in the breeze.
Try to keep it the same color (if possible) as the original, and to include it in your engine wiring harness ... wrapped in either asphalt or convoluted wire loom.
NAPA Echlin # KS-6533 for non-tilt (was there even a tilt option?)
If there is a connector that plugs into the switch, be sure to either splice/solder/shrink OR to remove and replace the terminal.