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Old 12-20-2002, 08:51 AM
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Post engine sludge!!

what is the proper way to flush a motor? ive heard kerosene or diesel can be used. if so, how much should i use, and how long should i keep it in my motor?

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Old 12-20-2002, 08:56 AM
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"Gunk" makes a 5 minuite motor flush that you can get at Wal-Mart. I've used it and seen clumps fall out of my oil drain so I guess it works. The directions says that it works in 1 use but if your motor is extremely dirty than it might take 2 uses, like if you use Penzoil.

[ December 20, 2002: Message edited by: 5.0Towncar ]</p>
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Old 12-20-2002, 09:12 AM
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The only thing to be aware of when using that stuff is that many times the engine will begin smoking heavily afterwards. The sludge is generally filling the valve guide clearance, or making nice valve seals(etc). As with anything your engine might not be that worn and you could use it and have no problems, but then again....
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Old 12-20-2002, 09:14 AM
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Used it 4 times and never seen smoke or anything wrong.
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Old 12-20-2002, 09:15 AM
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years ago and in another life, i drained the oil changed filter, put 3 qts of a cheap oil in along with a gallon of mineral spirits or kerosene. then i cranked the eng up and let it idle for 15 min drained, changed filters, added new oil and filter and was on my way. i over filled because that way the crankshaft really gets into the picture and does a good job washing it down. beware , these methods may also cause the eng to start using oil.
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Old 12-20-2002, 10:02 AM
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My father in law changes his oil every 50,000 miles or 10 years, which ever comes first. He uses thes kerosene flush method. The only time I watched him do this, he ran it for 3 minutes and shut it off. The engine began to deisel with the keroses as fuel and if he hadn't thrown a plastic bag over the carb, it would have blown up from over speeding.

Here are my recommendations for what they're worth.

On a new or rebuilt engine, run good synthetic or detergent oil and change it religiously every 3000 miles. This will result in an engine that will never fail in oyur lifetime due to bad lubrication and never gets dirty inside thus needs no "flushing". Another thought, you spend a lot of time and money insuring you circulate only the best oil past your bearings. Why would you even consider turning the engine over 1 turn with solvent in the oil system!?!

On old, tired, abused engines, run good synthetic or detergent oil and change it religiously every 3000 miles. I took exception to this advice on my 235 6 in my '53 puckup because it used so much oil, about 1 qt./week, that I virtually changed the oil every couple of months! I would NEVER flush an engine like this. There is way too much danger of busting sludge and carbon scale loose and circulation it thru the engine. Leave it alone until you rebuild and clean it out then.

In short, I think it is a bad idea to 'flush' an engine any time.
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Old 12-20-2002, 10:10 AM
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[quote]Originally posted by willys36@aol.com:
<strong>Why would you even consider turning the engine over 1 turn with solvent in the oil system!?!
</strong><hr></blockquote>

I agree. The potential for damage seems high. Who wants to spin a bearing? Besides, a little sludge is good for ya!



Derrick,

What kind of engine do you have and why do you think it needs to be flushed?
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Old 12-20-2002, 10:26 AM
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Are you trying to cure your ticking sound (that we talked about in your "Mystery Noise" question below) on that 283 with the new heads by using a motor flush? If so, did you see a lot of gunk under the valve covers before the head job? If not, then I'll bet your poor oil flow aint due to clogged oil passages. If it's the same motor, I would isolate the trouble first before risking the motor flush......
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Old 12-20-2002, 12:12 PM
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[quote]Originally posted by JunkYardFrog:
<strong>

I agree. The potential for damage seems high. Who wants to spin a bearing? Besides, a little sludge is good for ya!



Derrick,

What kind of engine do you have and why do you think it needs to be flushed?</strong><hr></blockquote>

i have a 1962 283, i changed the heads, and found about 1/4" of sludge in the "lifter valley". this engine is completly stock, i was the first to pull the heads off. local chevy guy said it still had the original head gaskets.(extremely thin, flimsy, metal,,,reminds me of tin)
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Old 12-20-2002, 12:14 PM
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[quote]Originally posted by Steve B:
<strong>Are you trying to cure your ticking sound (that we talked about in your "Mystery Noise" question below) on that 283 with the new heads by using a motor flush? If so, did you see a lot of gunk under the valve covers before the head job? If not, then I'll bet your poor oil flow aint due to clogged oil passages. If it's the same motor, I would isolate the trouble first before risking the motor flush......</strong><hr></blockquote>


yes i am, i read a troubleshooting article on the net, it described my problem to a T, it suggested improperly adj valves, collapsed lifters, dirty or clogged lifters. valves are adjusted properly, so im leaning towards dirty or clogged lifters because of the fact that when i wiped out the "lifter valley", My dumb a#* probably got that thick, gritty sludge, in my lifters. Not too smart, guess i had my head on backwards at the time!! Anyway, i got some new lifters today, gonna see if that does it! ill keep you posted

[ December 20, 2002: Message edited by: derrick1977 ]</p>
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Old 12-20-2002, 01:27 PM
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If you plan on installing new lifters on an old camshaft, be advised that there is potential for damage to your camshaft lobes. The reason for this is that the lifters and lobes develop a wear pattern into each other, and when you install a new set of lifters, the new surface is not mated to the wear pattern on the cam. Worst case could result in flattened lobes on the cam.

Having said this, I have installed new lifters on an old cam more than once without problems on other motors (never a Chevy though which are notorious for wiping out cam lobes), but used plenty of good assembly lube, and was sure to run the engine in as if it were new- pre oiled then about 20 minutes running at about 2,000 rpm.

Didn't you say that it made noise before the head job, and that it only does it when fully warmed up? Before spending the time and money on replacing only the lifters on an old motor, and if your climate allows it, why not try a 20/50 oil and see if it stops the ticking? If that doesn't do it then I guess replacing the lifters may be worth a try. Its a bit of a gamble, but it sounds like the motor could use an overhaul anyway.
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Old 12-20-2002, 06:25 PM
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I add one litre of transmission oil (dextron, type F doesn't matter) and drive the car for 30 minutes before I drain. The trans oil is very high in detergents compared to motor oil and works well to remove light deposits or unstick a lifter. This is the only method I recommend.
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Old 12-20-2002, 06:40 PM
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found the problem, i need a new cam, its pretty wore, lifters were also shot, didnt backfire though, now that ive got new heads, p-rods, lifters, and a cam, i migt as well dig into the bottom end.

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Old 12-20-2002, 09:55 PM
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Better start looking at short blocks. With the wear problems you are describing with all the components you have replaced, the bottom end is trash too.

You should be able to come up with a production shop engine for around $400 with at least a years waranty. Then an oil pump and pickup and you are a player for the next ten years or so.

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Old 12-20-2002, 10:32 PM
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Derrick; you almost made a very common and expensive mistake. Don't ever freshen up the top end of a tired motor and not do the same for the bottom end! The tight new top end will inevitebly over power the worn out bottom end and blow it up. Bite the bullet and rebuild the whole thing. You'll be $$$$ ahead.
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