engine stalls when hammered - Page 3 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #31 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2010, 08:51 AM
F-BIRD'88's Avatar
Yada Yada Yada
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 9,153
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 5
Thanked 374 Times in 368 Posts
Recurve the distributor for 22 to 26 initial at idle and 34-36 at max advance (2800-3200)
shorten/limit the advance curve to 10-12deg to allow this.

The 280H cam needs this modified curve with increased idle timing.

A stock converter will not work well. Get a 3000 to 3500 stall and 4.10's
The 280H cam likes to rev. Its dead below 2500rpm.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #32 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2010, 09:00 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Iowa
Posts: 120
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88
Recurve the distributor for 22 to 26 initial at idle and 34-36 at max advance (2800-3200)
shorten/limit the advance curve to 10-12deg to allow this.

The 280H cam needs this modified curve with increased idle timing.

A stock converter will not work well. Get a 3000 to 3500 stall and 4.10's
The 280H cam likes to rev. Its dead below 2500rpm.
Going to be upgrading the stall soon. so you are saying that i shoule set initial to 22* and get some stiff springs to keep mechanical lower in the degree range?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #33 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2010, 09:38 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Iowa
Posts: 120
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 69chvyc10
it sounds like we are having a similar problem. I installed a fuel pressure regulator and set it at 6psi (was around 10) set my timing at 14 deg btdc and that solved a good bit of my problem. I also changed my header gaskets and it solved my exhaust problem with popping. mine was when i accelerated then let off the gas though, not sure if that was the case for you.the only problem i have now tho is when i punch it it loads for a sec then takes off. have u checked what your fuel pressure is at? electric or mechanical pump?
it's a mechanical fuel pump and i have never checked it out to see what psi it is running. you need to buy a gauge right?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #34 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2010, 09:47 AM
F-BIRD'88's Avatar
Yada Yada Yada
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 9,153
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 5
Thanked 374 Times in 368 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by projectman69
Going to be upgrading the stall soon. so you are saying that i shoule set initial to 22* and get some stiff springs to keep mechanical lower in the degree range?
No. you must modify the mech advance stop to limit the advance travel to 10-12 deg so the timing will not exceed 36deg at max advance when set at 22-26 initial.

Takes more than just swapping springs to get this. Read the direction for your distributor. Sometimes you need to get creative, beyond what is commonly available to get the right timing curve depending on the distributor used.

From that point a combo of 1 light and 1 medium spring, or 2 medium tension springs from the advance curve kit will work. (once you have limited the travel of the advance.)
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #35 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2010, 09:49 AM
F-BIRD'88's Avatar
Yada Yada Yada
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 9,153
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 5
Thanked 374 Times in 368 Posts
First, determine how much timing is really required at idle (18-26deg) and how much is required at max advance. (32-38deg)
Then, limit the advance travel to allow this.

Some people lock out the advance system to help determine the best timing points
at the different rpm/load points.

To see the point:

Lock out the advance and set the locked timing at 34deg BTDC and go for a ride. (the timing does not move with rpm).

Now tear down the distributor and create the best curve.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #36 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2010, 05:11 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Iowa
Posts: 120
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88
First, determine how much timing is really required at idle (18-26deg) and how much is required at max advance. (32-38deg)
Then, limit the advance travel to allow this.

Some people lock out the advance system to help determine the best timing points
at the different rpm/load points.

To see the point:

Lock out the advance and set the locked timing at 34deg BTDC and go for a ride. (the timing does not move with rpm).

Now tear down the distributor and create the best curve.
Sounds a bit complicated, but doable. Would you by chance have any idea how to do this?, or if anyone else reads this you guys could help out too.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #37 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2010, 10:52 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: south carolina
Posts: 20
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
yea I picked up a fuel pressure gauge from jegs and an inline adapter and hooked it up midway from the fuel pump and the carb. I then bought a fuel pressure regulator and set it at 6psi bc I heard that whats holleys run best at but you said you have an eddie so im not sure what they should be running at. I wish I could help you understand the timing but im kinda in the same boat you are with that. good luck!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #38 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2010, 11:03 PM
techinspector1's Avatar
Senior Curmudgeon
 
Last wiki edit: DynoSim combinations Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Hemet, California, USA
Age: 72
Posts: 12,939
Wiki Edits: 326

Thanks: 759
Thanked 1,008 Times in 847 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 69chvyc10
yea I picked up a fuel pressure gauge from jegs and an inline adapter and hooked it up midway from the fuel pump and the carb. I then bought a fuel pressure regulator and set it at 6psi bc I heard that whats holleys run best at but you said you have an eddie so im not sure what they should be running at. I wish I could help you understand the timing but im kinda in the same boat you are with that. good luck!
5 1/2 max on an Edelbrock. 6 1/2 max on a Holley. There is no reason to run them right up against the limit though. Back off 1/2 psi as 69chvyc10 has done and leave yourself some room. 5 psi will work the best on a Performer/AFB carb.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #39 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2010, 08:45 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Iowa
Posts: 120
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 69chvyc10
yea I picked up a fuel pressure gauge from jegs and an inline adapter and hooked it up midway from the fuel pump and the carb. I then bought a fuel pressure regulator and set it at 6psi bc I heard that whats holleys run best at but you said you have an eddie so im not sure what they should be running at. I wish I could help you understand the timing but im kinda in the same boat you are with that. good luck!
Thanks for the info on the line setup and no problem i don't expect everyone to know everything because i sure don't.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #40 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2010, 08:54 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Iowa
Posts: 120
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
5 1/2 max on an Edelbrock. 6 1/2 max on a Holley. There is no reason to run them right up against the limit though. Back off 1/2 psi as 69chvyc10 has done and leave yourself some room. 5 psi will work the best on a Performer/AFB carb.
Okau thank you. when i do get a pressure regulator i will set it to 5 psi.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
the history of chevy v8's savman1 Hotrodders' Lounge 43 03-02-2012 06:57 PM
Valve Lash adjustment hiball Engine 36 05-11-2009 10:12 AM
Engine stalls when trans put into gear Sedan delivery dude Transmission - Rearend 5 11-25-2006 03:00 PM
Engine stalls off the line Pinko351 Engine 2 11-15-2006 06:12 AM
1997 Ford Thunderchicken....engine stalls... BillyBob1950 Engine 7 12-12-2002 06:32 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:08 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.