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Old 07-19-2006, 10:46 PM
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Engine Storage, while working on the rest of the car?

I did a search and a lot of folks have different opinions on how to store the engine.

OK, I'm getting at that point of removing my engine and body, so I can work on the chassis then the body. I figure a couple of years. Engine currently runs and is complete, intake to pan.

I'm planning on making a roll away stand so I can just push the engine under my workbench.

My garage is well insulated, I use a small space heater in the winter (location=Ontario, it's cold).

What is "FOGGING an Engine"?
Do I leave the tranny attached?
What do I do with the upper/lower rad hoses?
Drain the coolant or Clamp and leave the coolant in?

Some say wrap it up in a bag with decedent pellets others say wrap in a blanket, dry or soaked in oil?

Any and all input would be very helpful.

ThanX
Frank

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Last edited by 58Chev; 07-19-2006 at 10:48 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 07-19-2006, 11:20 PM
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Me personally, I would drain the coolant completely, if the hoses are rubber, you can fold them over like pinching a garden hose. I would leave the tranny attached and cover the tip with a plastic bag.

As for "fogging" I searched up a nice article on boat engines, which might be more likely to have rust problems.
http://www.boatmotors.com/winterization/
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Old 07-20-2006, 06:13 AM
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If the engine has been sitting for a while fire it up and let it get up to temp. Change the oil to a non-detergent oil, fire it up and let it come back up to temp. Doing this will bake any latent moisture out of the block.
If it's a carbed engine, let it cool down a bit, disconnect the fuel line at the pump, fire it up and run it out of gas.
You can drain the coolant before you pull it.
Leave the trans on if you want.
Once it's out, an easy way to make it mobile is to screw some casters to a small pallet and set the engine on the pallet.
Wrap it in plastic to keep to keep the junk off.
If you want to pressure wash it before you yank it do that while you are prepping it...
Mark
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Old 07-20-2006, 09:18 AM
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I would pull out the spark plugs and put a once of engine oil in each clyinders and reinstall plugs and turn it over a couple of revelotions. And every month or so turn the engine over a couple of turns so the crank & pistons dont sit in the same spot. Fogging oil works the best.
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Old 07-20-2006, 05:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 35chev/302gmc
Fogging oil works the best.
This is where I get , Is there a fogging oil and a fogging spray? Or is it the same thing others have mentioned?

Can this fogging oil be had anywhere or just boat shops?

As for the coolant, should I remove the water pump also?
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Old 07-21-2006, 07:02 AM
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Any oil will work, don't buy anything special... If there are a lot of miles on the motor I doubt you would really need to oil it up or rotate it during storage.
No need to remove the water pump. If your coolant mix is correct I doubt it will get cold enough to freeze inside your garage. If you want to keep the motor warm with a heat tape you could do that but I don't think it will be necessary if you can keep the garage above 32*...
Mark
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Old 07-21-2006, 07:33 AM
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Yep high milage engine.

ThanX astroracer..

Just thought.....

Do I tape the holes from the exhaust manifolds and carb intale? I most likely will remove the carb as it needs to be rebuilt.
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Old 07-21-2006, 07:53 AM
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It all depends how much you care about your engine. If you dont care, dont do anything, if you care about it look after it! Fogging oil come's in a spray can. Regular engine oil will also do the job.
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Old 07-21-2006, 11:16 AM
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What hapens when I'm ready to drop the engine back in?

How would I get the oil out from the spark plug holes?
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Old 07-21-2006, 11:31 AM
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You can crank the engine over with the starter to blow the oil out, but it will make a mess. I would put in the plugs and crank it over and the excess will go out the exhaust. Change to fresh plugs to start the engine and it will burn off any excess oil left in the cylinders. It will smoke until the excess oil is gone.
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Old 07-21-2006, 12:30 PM
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No need to remove the oil, it is such a small amount you are putting in the clyinder, just start it up. All you want is a oil film on the clyinder walls to prevent rust from forming
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Old 07-24-2006, 12:16 PM
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I fog my motor every year at the end of the season. I have an old 307 sbc with a lot of miles on it. Before I fog the motor I check the coolant to be sure it is not more than 3 years old. If it is due, I change it. I check the tranny fluid too. Bring it up to normal full if it isn't there. I add Stabil to the tank. Normally I don't leave a lot of fuel in the tank. Just a few gallons. I have a SS tank, so I'm not worried about rust. I fog it by starting it cold, let it warm for about a minute. Shut it off and pinch off the fuel line. Restart the motor and then spray the fogging oil into the carb throat gassing it just a little until the motor eventually stalls. This will drain the carb and fog the cylinders at the same time. Next I change the oil and filter. I'm set for the winter. Once or twice during the winter I will hand crank the motor a few rotations if I'm in the mood. I have not noticed any differance if I did this step or not. Good luck on the rebuild. Post some pics. We like to see those winter builds in progress.
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