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  #76 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-2012, 10:11 PM
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Well the big majority of people will come around and say "nice car" as most of them either won't know..and the real car guys will appreciate what has been done to make the car run well and be driveable..

Sam...
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  #77 (permalink)  
Old 08-07-2012, 08:56 AM
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I still say it depends on what your expectations are and what you have right now as far as condition. I have seen soooooooo many times were people get an old car and the motor doesn't run, so they swap it out to a motor they know better. We all know that motor, you know the one that starts with a "small" and ends with a "Chevy". I have seen it, literally the old flat head Plymouth in the car is running poorly or won't start and the guy does a whole drive train swap on the car selling the Plymouth stuff and the new owner sticks it in his car and changes the points, fires it up and drives off! I remember my brother buying a hot little 322 Buick out of an old hot rod like that. My brother asked him "How did it run" he responded with "Never got it running" and my brother fired it up when he got it home and it ran great. The guy could have been out on the road having fun in a unique vintage hot rod a LOT faster than it took to swap out all the old stuff for new to build a catalog car.

I still have to wonder, if this car was "restored" (a VERY subjective term) and doesn't have that many miles on it, why not keep it going as is. Ok, they have the very "troublesome" drive train, what exactly is troublesome? Can THAT be fixed? If it's those hubs, would it make sense to swap over some modern hubs and knuckles? It just seems that modifying what you have to make it better makes a lot more sense than throwing the baby out with the bath water.

It's funny, when I bought my Rambler (similar type car in that few people know a thing about it) I was told over and over how I need to replace the front knuckles as they break. You can be driving down the highway and the knuckle breaks. Well after a little education getting deeper into the Rambler community I learned that this was common with the next generation American because they took the bearings out the knuckle and put bushings! Those bushings without a lot of greasing and really staying on top of it WILL fail and the knuckle ends up breaking in half. The earlier ones like mine which will swap with the later ones to correct the problem have roller bearings in them and I pulled mine apart to find them full of grease though on the outside they looked like friggin crusty rocks that hadn't had grease in years.

I was told over and over to replace them, the front end on these cars are like nothing you have ever seen on a Ford, Chevy or Mopar with a very odd design. It scares people, it's so odd they run from it. Yet, for my expectations driving every day to work five miles it's just fine.

How hard would it be to correct the design flaws in the Cord as opposed to rebuilding the entire design of the drivetrain?

Brian
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  #78 (permalink)  
Old 08-07-2012, 01:16 PM
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If the OP wants more power also, the swap is the only way to go.

If however the only reason is the hubs, a machine shop could probably carve a pair of those babies out of solid stock.
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  #79 (permalink)  
Old 08-07-2012, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by OneMoreTime View Post
Well the big majority of people will come around and say "nice car" as most of them either won't know..and the real car guys will appreciate what has been done to make the car run well and be driveable..

Sam...
hi sam, thanks,you're right on the money! regards,jerry
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  #80 (permalink)  
Old 08-07-2012, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
I still say it depends on what your expectations are and what you have right now as far as condition. I have seen soooooooo many times were people get an old car and the motor doesn't run, so they swap it out to a motor they know better. We all know that motor, you know the one that starts with a "small" and ends with a "Chevy". I have seen it, literally the old flat head Plymouth in the car is running poorly or won't start and the guy does a whole drive train swap on the car selling the Plymouth stuff and the new owner sticks it in his car and changes the points, fires it up and drives off! I remember my brother buying a hot little 322 Buick out of an old hot rod like that. My brother asked him "How did it run" he responded with "Never got it running" and my brother fired it up when he got it home and it ran great. The guy could have been out on the road having fun in a unique vintage hot rod a LOT faster than it took to swap out all the old stuff for new to build a catalog car.

I still have to wonder, if this car was "restored" (a VERY subjective term) and doesn't have that many miles on it, why not keep it going as is. Ok, they have the very "troublesome" drive train, what exactly is troublesome? Can THAT be fixed? If it's those hubs, would it make sense to swap over some modern hubs and knuckles? It just seems that modifying what you have to make it better makes a lot more sense than throwing the baby out with the bath water.

It's funny, when I bought my Rambler (similar type car in that few people know a thing about it) I was told over and over how I need to replace the front knuckles as they break. You can be driving down the highway and the knuckle breaks. Well after a little education getting deeper into the Rambler community I learned that this was common with the next generation American because they took the bearings out the knuckle and put bushings! Those bushings without a lot of greasing and really staying on top of it WILL fail and the knuckle ends up breaking in half. The earlier ones like mine which will swap with the later ones to correct the problem have roller bearings in them and I pulled mine apart to find them full of grease though on the outside they looked like friggin crusty rocks that hadn't had grease in years.

I was told over and over to replace them, the front end on these cars are like nothing you have ever seen on a Ford, Chevy or Mopar with a very odd design. It scares people, it's so odd they run from it. Yet, for my expectations driving every day to work five miles it's just fine.

How hard would it be to correct the design flaws in the Cord as opposed to rebuilding the entire design of the drivetrain?

Brian
hi brian, thanks for thinking about my situation, but i gotta tell you,i've done a lot of research on this drivetrain,bought cord books,spent a LOT of time on the auburn/cord site(just submitted app. for membership) cord was losing money at a horrendous rate, the drivetrain woes,rzeppa joints,hubs not heat treated properly,transmissions constantly popping out of gear,transmission overheating, causing bearing failures, a gear preselector that was vaccum/electric operated caused trouble and tire rims that cracked and fell off at whim.these are just some of the issues popping up that cord was trying to deal with while being severly undercapitalized.they just did'nt have the time or the money to properly develop the drivetrain.it's one of the most beautiful auto designs of all time,wrapped around a lousy drive unit,i know the purists are going to scream,but that how it is. got some more pics to post shortly. regards,jerry
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  #81 (permalink)  
Old 08-07-2012, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
If the OP wants more power also, the swap is the only way to go.

If however the only reason is the hubs, a machine shop could probably carve a pair of those babies out of solid stock.
123pugsy, see my reply to martinsr. regards, jerry
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  #82 (permalink)  
Old 08-07-2012, 04:46 PM
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I would find a way to adapt the Lycoming engine. It would have to be mounted backwards compared to it's original placement, but machining/ making a bellhousing wouldn't be difficult, and it would work as long as the Lycoming spins the right way..


An idea would be to use the Transmission from a 1980's VW Fox ( 4spd ) or Audi Quattro ( 5spd ). There very small transmissions, the stock engines made about 100 hp so it should hold the Lycoming's power. There longitudinally mounted transaxles. They have a very short 'tail shaft' which is just the shift extension. That should be able to be adapted by 'adjusting' the transmission case at the bellhousing
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  #83 (permalink)  
Old 08-07-2012, 05:32 PM
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I would find a way to adapt the Lycoming engine. It would have to be mounted backwards compared to it's original placement, but machining/ making a bellhousing wouldn't be difficult, and it would work as long as the Lycoming spins the right way..


An idea would be to use the Transmission from a 1980's VW Fox ( 4spd ) or Audi Quattro ( 5spd ). There very small transmissions, the stock engines made about 100 hp so it should hold the Lycoming's power. There longitudinally mounted transaxles. They have a very short 'tail shaft' which is just the shift extension. That should be able to be adapted by 'adjusting' the transmission case at the bellhousing
hi matt167,i appreciate your input,but i'm really commited to the swap,see my reply to martinsr this page. regards,jerry
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  #84 (permalink)  
Old 08-07-2012, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Jerrycord View Post
123pugsy, see my reply to martinsr. regards, jerry
There's alot more than the hubs so that's good reason to proceed for sure.

Can't wait to see the progress.
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  #85 (permalink)  
Old 08-07-2012, 08:53 PM
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There's alot more than the hubs so that's good reason to proceed for sure.

Can't wait to see the progress.
thanks again 123pugsy, regards,jerry
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  #86 (permalink)  
Old 08-09-2012, 07:43 PM
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thanks again 123pugsy, regards,jerry
hi everybody, i did post the new pics, they're under general rodding tech todays posts,i'm no wiz with computers,still learning. regards,jerry
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  #87 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2012, 05:47 PM
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Jerry, I really admire your determination to do this.
It is really a question of what will fit into the available space.



From the picture it looks as though there is not much height or length available in front of the front axle centerline.

The front IFS diff from a four wheel drive may be possible, but most are either very large and heavy and wide, or do not have suitable gear ratios available.
The most suitable I can think of would be an aluminium diff from a Nissan Frontier. They are small and light, but still plenty strong enough for on road use
(with no low range and small diameter car sized wheels), and come with suitably tall ratios.
The diff at the top of the picture is the Frontier diff.



Previous poster "ScF" mentioned the Toranado engine and auto gearbox.
That would be my choice with the standard Toranado diff removed from the front of the Toranado gearbox, and replaced with a standard Chev transmission extension housing, slip yoke and tailshaft, it all becomes possible.



Here is a picture of a very unusual mid engined Hotrod using a Toranado transmission modified for a tailshaft in the way suggested.
It would be the most compact solution possible for the rather unusual requirements and space limitations that you have.



The Toranado gearbox modification is a straight spanner job using all standard GM parts.
And the Frontier diff sits way out in front of the engine as required.
And the diff rotation is correct for front wheel drive.

Last edited by Silver Shadow; 08-26-2012 at 06:10 PM. Reason: extra picture
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  #88 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2012, 06:00 PM
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Is that a V21 Olds?

Brian
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Old 08-26-2012, 06:20 PM
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Brian,

That motor is a gm engine from the big block v6 line up, its a 702 cubic inch v12 truck motor, putting down around 200hp, and a TON of torque, they were made in the late 60's.

Here is the whole story about that freaky mid engined torque monster project.
Don't want to hijack this thread, but that was the clearest picture I could find of what I am trying to suggest for the Cord.

Hot Rods rear-engine hot rod truck - THE H.A.M.B.
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  #90 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2012, 09:43 PM
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LOLOL, I meant V 12.

That's cool, where did you find it?

Brian
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