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Old 02-12-2011, 09:29 PM
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Engine test start

I finally got my engine built and mounted on a home made test stand. How do I wire the alternator? The original wires that are with it are two thick red ones, I quess 10 gage. And what looks to be a thin one which is brown I think. One of the red ones connects to the back of the Alt. the other two are on the plastic connector. What do I do with these so I can start this bad boy?

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Old 02-13-2011, 05:26 AM
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You do not need an alt to start and run your eng, a good charged batt will do it. I don't recommend running it for a long time, over 10 min for various reasons but a batt will work just fine.
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Old 02-13-2011, 06:05 AM
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didn't know that

Thanks, I didn't know that. I still will need to know how to hook it up in the car though. Someone did post a link to view with a wireing diagram but it's for a chevelle. I have a 62 Impala.
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Old 02-13-2011, 12:09 PM
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Is it the original alternator, or a newer one? The wiring sounds like the plugs for a GM 10si alternator with an integrated voltage regulator (came out in the 70's).

This is an article about 10si wiring. Pay attention to the terminal numbers (#1, #2 and BAT) and where they connect. Do not trust the color of the wires in your car, since they it have been wired with the wrong color.
http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/10si.htm

Bruce
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Old 02-13-2011, 03:59 PM
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Sounds easy, I'm sure it is. The battery wire must be the fat one that has a lug on the back and it's attached with a nut. The # 2 would tie in with it if I am reading this right.
As far as #1 that will hook to the volt meter I will be installing instaed of the light.
I did get a set of gages to get away from the idiot lights. temp, volt, oil presure to mount to the dash and a seperate tach that'll mount on the steering columb.

As far as the engine go's, she's just about ready to fire up. The guy from the engine machine shop will stop by to adjust the valves for me. I've never done it and don't trust myself. I did try myself but still have that uncertainty.

Once that's done I need to dig the car out of all the freekin snow we got here in CT. Yank out the old and drop in the new.

Still not sure if I need to replace the frame engine mounts.
I looked some up at year one and they sure look a lot like whats on the car. Hate to buy stuff I won't need.
The transmission too, I hope I don't have to replace too much.
Taking out the old 3 speed manual and installing 350TG. I got it might as well use it.
The old columb shift is a pain in the tush when they bind up. I'm certain you are all familiar with that delema. Hate when that happens.
Not sure if I will go with floor shift or columb. I know of someone who has the auto columb in a parts car I sold him.

Anyway, thanks again guy's/gal's all who are replying.
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Old 02-13-2011, 04:46 PM
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You can tie the #2 wire into the same BAT terminal and it will work fine. However, on the original installation it ran back into the wiring harness and connected at a junction farther back.

Why did OEM not tie it to the BAT terminal? - Since the #2 wire is what senses voltage drop and makes the alternator charge, having it sense voltage at a point farther away from the alternator (and closer to the voltage draw) will do a better job of measuring voltage drop as you turn accessories on, and then compensating by increasing the alternator output.

Bruce
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Old 02-13-2011, 05:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsandre
I finally got my engine built and mounted on a home made test stand. How do I wire the alternator? The original wires that are with it are two thick red ones, I quess 10 gage. And what looks to be a thin one which is brown I think. One of the red ones connects to the back of the Alt. the other two are on the plastic connector. What do I do with these so I can start this bad boy?
Good info so far
and correct as far as I see it
Now for the brown wire
it goes to your light in the dash (idiot light)
Or if you dont have a light in the dash you can ignor it or make your own warning light ( take a two wire socket feed it 12volt ign on the one end and hook your brown wire from the alternator to the other end. The light will light up when you turn your ign on and shut off when your engine starts and the alternator turns and sends 12volt back to light
Nothing to it.
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Old 02-13-2011, 06:34 PM
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I had a column shift in my car....... cut off the nub fill it in with JB weld, installed a Hurst ratchet shifter.... sweet.
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