I have been looking for a test stand for my enigine but they are so expensive. I have seen a few home built ones but I have looked on the internet and can't seem to find any plans or anything. Anyone have any ot sites with details on these?
I have seen some homemade ones using the front frame rails off of a Chevy pick up for Chevy engines or a Ford for ford engines. Just make you up a panel to mount a few guages on... and you got it. The ones I saw they left the front wheels on and fixed them stationary so they would not turn. Left the radiator support and radiator on the frame for cooling, and put a tongue and dolly wheel on it so you can roll it around.
You just want to run the engine to break it in and check for leaks, then run leak-down and compression....Right?
I used to build prototype engines. We ran every engine after build to run checks and verify they did not leak.
After build, the engines were placed on steel dollys with 4 casters. The dolly had vertical bar stock (1 1/2' x 1/2") that supported the engine between the oil pan bolts. The bars were notched on end with a gap of about 1/2" so you could straddle a bolt head with the bar. These bars were horizontally adjustable by use of T-nuts in slots on the 1/2" steel bed plate the casters mounted to.
We used cut off bell housings to mount the starter motor. The cooling and electrical support systems were mounted to the wall. This was an industrial set up but the concept can easily be copied for home use. The main thing to remember is DO NOT open the throttle quickly or you will torque the engine and the dolly on its side. I have also seen a tempory hill-billy setup (in West Virginia) that used 2x4's nailed together to support the engine with trans attached, jumper cables from a pickup truck to get it started, and a running garden hose duct-taped to the water pump intake for cooling. It can be as simple or as sophisticated as you care, or can afford to make it.
This is my first engine build up and want to break it in before installing it. This way if anything happens to break or fail. It's out of the car and easier to fix than having to pull the motor out again. That's why I don't want spend the money on buying one.
I was thinking of an engine cradle without the casters on it with an additional 12" mounted to the bottom created from angle iron. To support the motor and addtional clearance with headers? Then all I would need to do is create a control panel.
Have 'built' the ******* versions before when needed, but will build a real unit soon.
Saw a nice 'foldable' unit a SEMA that I took some pics of. They might give you some ideas.
Pics show the upright unit with an engine on it & a folded one next to it on the ground. Unit was adjustable for any standard BBF, BBC, SBF, SBC, although it could work for most any V8, at least.
Don't have the info in front of me, but it was about $1k, complete with fuel tank, rad, overflow tank, gauges, etc. You provide engine & battery.
This is my first engine build up and want to break it in before installing it. This way if anything happens to break or fail. It's out of the car and easier to fix than having to pull the motor out again. That's why I don't want spend the money on buying one.
I was thinking of an engine cradle without the casters on it with an additional 12" mounted to the bottom created from angle iron. To support the motor and addtional clearance with headers? Then all I would need to do is create a control panel.
here are a few of my death trap i made. Its not as sexy as the one above but it did what I needed it to do. Its all adjustable and collaposable to fit whatever engine i may need it for .
Glad i did cause I had a rear freeze plug leak and a warped flexplate
Looks like you can make one out of about any size tubing you can find. I used 3" x 1-1/2" for mine.Trays for fuel and battery,some old gages and you're all set.
As mentioned the stand doesn't have to be real fancy. Bascially a rectangular frame with an attachment points for the engine and radiator.
Personally, I like to keep mine low to the ground, and put 4 castors on it (the largest I can find and preferably all 4 swivel type). I also usually strap an old box fan to the front of the radiator rahter than bolting up the fan to the front pully. A stand on the back to mount an oil pressure and water temp guage to and that's about it.
For big blocks and Hemis I will often also make a smaller version, just a cradle actually. I'll ovten built the shortblock on a regular engine stand then attach it to the cradle to put the heads on. It's a lot easier on the back and I don't have to worry about it tipping over when I have to move it. Although I never have the engine could be started on this for a few minuets it it needed to be.
Depending on what I have laying around, I doubt if I have $25 tied up any of them.
Thanks for all the pics!!!! It is very much appreciated!
I have an idea of what I would like to do which what is similar to what gilby246 has.
I was thinking of using an two engine cradles and cut one in half and weld that one on to the front of the other for a raditor support and attach another cross bar for stability. Now one thing I have an issue I think would be torque. I plan on putting a throttle on the control panel using a lawn mower throttle. Do you think it would be able to handle it. It's not a 400 hp motor more like 300 if that.
I think that a fellow would want a good wide base if he is going to rev the engine much to keep it from rolling over as previously mentioned..Other than that some way to easily fasten the engine to the stand..
I don't know if I'll run mine on this stand , but I crank it over to circulate oil plus the wheels have a lock and steer option that makes moving it around a one man operation.
Whatever you do , make sure your engine hoist can roll under it easily so you have no problems lining it up and setting it down. This never occurred to me and I had to lift my stand up with blocks of wood to drop the engine on.
It's totally self contained with place for battery, gauges, fuel tank and radiator...I built mine out of wood. If you have a bunch of 2x4's and a chop saw, you're good to go. I made mine large enough to also hold the transmission. I intend on using this stand for engine/ trans storage when it's not in the car. Pugsy had a real good point about hoist access. Make sure you can get it off the stand without too much trouble.
Hope this helps,
Having a lot of expierence running engines on test stands, and dyno's PLEASE do not mount your controls so that you're on the side of the engine. When things fly out that is the way they come!
I'm gonna revive an old post. I have my motor all finished and now looking into build the test stand. I check out Ebay and and only seen one set of plans and it's build from a engine stand which is not what I'm looking for. Does any here know where else I can get them OR if someone was kind enough to measure their's and get the dimensions for me.
That one Pete built is about 36" wide and about 4' 6" long from my looks at the picture..Like BGtech said mount your controls on the end where the radiator is so if it does come apart it hopefully just scares you..When you blow one up that is..
The base on Petes test stand looks to be 2x2 tube..probably some stuff from the scrap pile..Course you will need motor mounts and those you might have in the scrap pile somewhere..Other than that a simple ignition switch a water temp and oil pressure guage and maybe a tach and you are good to go..Mount the engine fairly low so it will not tip so easy as well..
Awesome thread - thanks for photo's from me too! Wondering if anyone could list the wiring coonections needed to start it on the stand. I'm all ready to go, but want to double check everything. Also, how would I hook up a key-start, or is it easier just to hook up a bump button to starter? I'm guessing with the bump button I'd need a power source to distributor & coil right?
Sorry for the dumb questions, electrical is my weak spot!
I use this to set up carbs and break in and check engines for leaks, timing, and all that good stuff. I have set up 4 engines so far and even though the stand is very high (55 inches at top of carb) no tipping or torque problems. When you have resistance such as a transmission and driveline then you have the torque.
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