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Old 03-15-2004, 04:59 PM
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Wheels427 Wheels427 is offline
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Engine and tranny run in

I'm getting close to firing up the power train of my latest project, a '95 extended cab S10 350 w/ 350TH.
I did some porting and polishing on the heads and chose a cam w/ 447/447 lift to bump the 1.94 - 1. 60 stainless swirl polished valves.
The bottom end got a complete rebuild w/ .030 over forged floating flattops pinned to bushed Cat rods. Crank is at .010/.010 with chamfered oil holes. A Melling Hi Volume pump and welded pickup tube drinks from a new Summit pan.

T.C.I was my choice for a trans overhaul kit , manual shift kit, and a Saturday Nite Special converter (2000 stall). I went a step further and replaced all the bushings and thrust bearings that were not included in the kit.

Since I have never rebuilt a trans, my question is what do I need to do when I start the engine to run in the cam. Can I complete the cam run in then run the trans thru the gears while the tires are off the ground or will I have cooked the trans by then?
Since this concerns both engine and trans issues, I'm posting in this forum, but please move this if it is not in the right place.



Thanks for any insight,
Wheels427
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Old 03-15-2004, 05:24 PM
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Frisco Frisco is offline
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re: Engine and tranny run in

You will find yourself a little busy.

Be sure the crankcase is full of oil and that the filter is on. Check your fuel. I've seen more than one person forget to have fuel in the tank on a fresh rebuild.

Set your distributor as close to the correct position as you can. You want the engine to start quickly. Do not crank and crank and crank. Find the problem and fix it.

Be sure the coolant level is full. If you are running a clutch type fan, set a "box" house type fan in front of the radiator to assist with good air flow.

Since you have rebuilt the trans put 4 quarts in the trans before you start the engine.

Ok. Fire it up. Look for obvious leaks. Shut down if you have major leaks. Bring the RPM up to around 2000-2500. Set your Total mechanical timing with the vacuum advance hose disconnected from the vacuum cannister and plugged. Keep the engine in that RPM range.

Start filling the trans. Depending whether you have a separate trans cooler; you will end up putting in a total of 10-12 quarts to get to the 'Full' mark.

Watch the oil pressure and the coolant temp closely. Any problems, Shut it down.. Watch your headers. If they begin to 'glow' red, you are either retarded in the ignition or very lean mixture.

No leaks, temp good, oil pressure good; vary the engine RPM in the 2000-2500 range. Total run time should be in the neighborhood of 20-30 minutes. Shut it down. The cam is now broke in. Re-torque the head bolts, intake bolts and exhaust bolts. Change your oil and filter.

Restart the engine. Let it reach operating temp. Now you can adjust your carb. Once you are satisfied with the air/idle adjustment (use a vacuum gauge), set the idle RPM to what you prefer with the trans in Drive. Have someone stand on the brakes when you do this. Recheck all fluid levels.

You are ready for the first drive!!!

The trans does not require a 'break-in'.

A new rear does.

Watch the RPM's (don't go excessive yet).

Change the oil and filter after 100 miles & again at 500 miles. After around 2000 miles you can use synthetic if you wish.

Enjoy!!!

Forgot to mention to prime the oil pump before setting the distributor in place. This is very important! I use an old distributor with the gear removed and the upper end of the shaft turned down to fit an electric drill motor.

Last edited by Frisco : 03-16-2004 at 03:47 AM.
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Old 03-15-2004, 08:38 PM
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re: Engine and tranny run in

Frisco,
Thanks f0r the info, I'm really curious to see this trans go down the road. The engine has become second nature to me, starting a small-block Chevy up and taking it out on the shakedown cruise is one of life's great rewards that comes form putting your heart into doing a job right the first time.
I've still got some major rewiring to finish up before the fire up so it'll be a week or so, but I'll post the results.
Then it's on to body and paint...


Thanks,
Wheels427
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Old 03-15-2004, 10:03 PM
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Ghetto Jet Ghetto Jet is offline
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re: Engine and tranny run in

Hey Wheels I'm in the same boat you are, going to be breaking in a new motor and trans soon. I was not as brave as you, I had my trans (2004R) rebuilt by a friend of mine who does it for a living, and has for about 25 years. He suggested to me that after I get the motor done with its 30 minute break in and the trans is full of fluid, to leave the car off for a day. He said something about how it's better for some of the new parts to sit for a day and soak in the trans fluid.


Mike
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Old 03-16-2004, 03:51 AM
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re: Engine and tranny run in

Quote:
Originally posted by Ghetto Jet
He suggested to me that after I get the motor done with its 30 minute break in and the trans is full of fluid, to leave the car off for a day. He said something about how it's better for some of the new parts to sit for a day and soak in the trans fluid.


Mike


This is not required. Driving the vehicle will get the trans fluid circulated very well. Heat is the biggest concern with the trans. 'Normal' operating temps are in the 150-180 degree range. This takes about ten minutes or more to reach when driving.

Last edited by Frisco : 03-16-2004 at 04:06 AM.
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Old 03-16-2004, 08:22 AM
94lt19c1 94lt19c1 is offline
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re: Engine and tranny run in

Well, when it is rebuilt the clutches should be soaked in transmission fluid. If they weren't it would make sense to let them soak.
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Old 03-16-2004, 08:34 AM
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re: Engine and tranny run in

Thank you 94lt19c1.
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