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Old 06-02-2010, 12:35 PM
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Engine wants to die when making sharp corner or braking hard and fast

I just got done building a fresh 355 for 4x4 Chevy and it runs and drives great;however, yesterday there were to instances that have me baffled and I'm hoping you guys can help.

I have a 4bl Holley 600cfm carburetor and I'm using a stock HEI setup. I have the initial timing set to 12' and I'm all in at 36.

The problem is that when I made a sharp u turn yesterday my choke light flashed on and I thought it was going to die but I gave it gas and it pulled out of it. Also, I had to make a very abrupt stop and the same thing happened, but once again it didn't die.

Any ideas? I was thinking maybe a float level issue but I found out that with the model I have a Holley 80457s model 4160 carburetor and it does not allow external float adjustments and according to the tech on Holley's site it says that adjustments aren't needed due to some new design.
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Old 06-02-2010, 01:12 PM
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"The problem is that when I made a sharp u turn yesterday my choke light flashed on "

So with this statement i would suppose you have a electric choke. If the choke lamp came on then i would be checking those connections and the internal workings of the choke mechanism to make sure there is no issue with the choke engaging while you are driving.
I would have bet it was a float issue also, but may have a short that is causing this thing to drop off.
Thats my two cents, I'm not sure what year truck you have and if the choke type is OE, but I would check the electrical side of it out.
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Old 06-02-2010, 01:28 PM
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Sorry about the lack of info....it is an electric choke and i ran a brand new wire to the ignition when it was installed.

The truck is an 86 Chevy Silverado 4x4. I've checked for loose connections and haven't found any. I was also told that if you loose oil pressure that your ignition system will be shut off, but I checked the oil and I'm still full and I put a brand new oil pump on during the build. Also, I have been terribly paranoid about watching my gauges since installing the engine. Also, while we're talking about the oil thing. I put on a new sending unit when I put the engine in and that wire to my gauge is new also.
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Old 06-02-2010, 03:37 PM
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My money is on the choke. Disconnect/and or make it inoperable and see if you still have the prob. Look for a short.
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Old 06-02-2010, 03:47 PM
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thanks guys i'll try that...
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Old 06-02-2010, 06:28 PM
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Sounds like a float problem to me. A correction to another post: any change in wiring to the choke won't cause an instant choke change since it uses an element that requires temperature changes. The choke will take a minute or more to go open or closed based on electrical problems. If your dying problem is electrical (ignition, etc), normally it will either die or cut out (off and on abruptly even) but rarely will power "sag". If it truly "sags" as I read the complaint, I'd pick on the fuel level. Either the float (most likely), water in the carb sloshing (seen that personally), or ?? that's fuel related. If the choke light is tied to the oil pressure sender as I remember some were, it could be coming on simply due to low oil pressure as the engine is nearly stalled. With all that said, I can't say it's not electrical, but based on the description I'd look there second. Electrical wise, I'd pick on engine to frame to body grounds and such.
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Old 06-02-2010, 07:51 PM
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I am on the float to high side of this discussion .. choke is another or separate problem
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Old 06-03-2010, 10:03 AM
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I think KMatch may be on to it. Changing the engine and not having proper grounds. I had this happen to me when a ground was not good and tight.
I also think if my memory is correct that the choke is tied into low oil pressure on these models.
You can test the water in fuel theory by unplugging fuel line and pumping a clear bottle full of fuel. let it settle to see if water is at the bottom. Pull the carb and dump the fuel out if it.
Im not familiar with that model of carb, but it really sounds like a float problem, but I have seen after-market chokes having a ignition hot wire that starts the opening process when power is on have a short in the hot wire that does not let the choke open completely. This can cause a stall also.
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Old 06-04-2010, 09:35 AM
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I'm going to recheck all of my wiring. This truck has all of the original wiring and some of it looks pretty old and there are wires added in all over the place from the previous owner. Thanks for the ideas guys.
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Old 06-04-2010, 09:43 AM
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Check for a ground cable from the engine to the frame and battery to engine. The other option I've run into is power brakes and vacuum advance hooked to the same port via a tee of some sort. The vacuum advance should pull vacuum from above the throttle blades and power brakes from below the throttle blades. If they are both hooked on the same port, you're pulling full advance at idle and while running and then retards all the way when the brakes are applied or the throttle is released. These are my two guesses, the ground would be my first guess as to what to check though.
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Old 06-04-2010, 10:10 AM
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Will recheck all grounds.....I know the vacuum lines are hooked up right....as far as the possibilities of fuel issues......new stock mech pump and new filter and no water in fuel.....
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Old 06-04-2010, 11:00 AM
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First thing you should check is the float levels. If they are to low you will starve on hard corners. If it was an electrical issue (ground) stepping on the accelerator pedal would not help. I have seen fuel tank baffles also cause this but only in FI applications that require constant pressure.

Check you float levels, I will bet they are to low
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Old 06-04-2010, 01:25 PM
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Choke wasn't opening all the way all the time.....the culprit.....a piece of ***** fuse that was partially burned but still barely making a connection....It's running like a top now...
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