Hi Kev and all the gang. recently a guy down under has been advertising and English wheel . a fairly professional unit
around $3000 i can profile the large G shape and make the stand and a large acrow prop with acme thread will provide adjustment my question is can anybody supply the dimensions/profiles of the small wheels use to work the metal ? i thought 4 jaw may be able to help. a quick search of the knowledge base drew a blank .I remember the wheel at tech school in body shop but never got to use it

I have just done a seach on yahoo
and got plenty of hits thanks guys well catch up soon
see ya ian

There are several dealers on Ebay selling the anvils for English wheel. Thats where I got mine.

Go to this site:

http://www.metalmeet.com/photopost/...t=506&password=

you will find more information on E wheels then you know what to do with. C U AL

Are you looking for a E wheel something like this one in the picture I attached?

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that sites great and the drawings look good i found a place that sells a box tubbing style wheel on yahoo
but if I can sort out the anvils I will build my own Bob I could not find any on ebay but i keep an eye out thanks again

Metalmeet has a member that sells them. Also, Kerry Pinkerton sells wheels. I have his 26" floor model. The guys at Metalmeet can hook you up. Use your regular name, not a screen name, and they'll welcome you like a long lost brother !

What's an English wheel?

An english wheel is a device used to smooth metal, or shape metal. If you look through my project journal, you'll see mine on the last page. Not a great pic, but you'll get an idea. I have a go-kart slick on mine at the time, because it will shape a radius in a single plane.

For instance: If you want to make a motorcycle fender, you need to stretch the center, and shrink the sides to get the metal to make the compound radii. The metal is squeezed between the upper wheel (flat- no radius) and the lower wheel (Radiused ) The metal is squeezed therefore stretching the metal. A faster method is to displace the metal with a mallet and a sandbag, then "wheel" out the "marbles" or "walnuts" left from the hammer.

Metalmeet is an awesome site. Try looking around!

what a great site there's truly something for everyone there

Glad that you are enjoying the site. I found it last year and have been pounding metal without a helmet for the last 40. See what you find when you just ask!


Have a good one Ian, talk to you. AL

www.metalcrafttools.com metal shaping tools built by metalshapers

I agree, Metalmeet is the place to go.

FYI, I'm lucky enough to be about 1.5 hours away from Wray, the originator of the MM site. I do my best to visit several times a month.

I'm currently in the process of putting together my own E-Wheel and P-Hammer. I already cut the arms for them both on the water-jet machine here at my work...

I've consulted with Wray on everything besides the frame...he recommends using an 8x5 upper wheel (as oppose to a 3" faced top wheel). He also recommended an assortment of lower anvils but to start off, 5" wide bottom anvils will be the focus.

I asked him "WHY?" I mean, everyone selling wheels on Ebay...all of the other shops...5" wide wheels just seem ridiculous...nobody is doing it.

Wray said it's alot easier for someone who is setup for a one-man shop...and he would know as he's been working solo for 15+ years now.

The thinner wheels will score your panel if you're not careful. A wider wheel will actually support the panel pretty well so you won't need someone else on the other end to help support it.

Again, Metalmeet is the place to go to talk about all this stuff...they'll steer you in the right direction.