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Old 01-16-2011, 07:32 PM
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Epoxy primer?????

Having an issue here. I sprayed some transtar epoxy last night, let it set up for about 12 hours and then laid some 2k over it early this morning. Came out about 10 hours later and started blocking(heated garage) I sanded through the epoxy in some areas and it started gumming up. Now I know this has a 72 hour window. I laid another coat of 2k over top but you can see hard edges. Am I screwed here. Will this epoxy continue to walk on me? Or should I leave it alone for a few days?

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Old 01-16-2011, 07:52 PM
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If you can wait a few days would be your best bet but if not you can water block with 800 grit until the edges or gone then reprime sand light not hard let the block do the work
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Old 01-16-2011, 07:56 PM
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Well I already reprimed both quarters, and the hard edges are clearly visible. I'll let it set up till Wednesday before I reblock. Thanks for the reply!

Last edited by orangejuiced86; 01-16-2011 at 08:05 PM.
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Old 01-16-2011, 08:37 PM
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Also, this is my first time using epoxy. I only used it becAuse the car I'm doing had a new roof and I stripped that part down to metal. I've always used etch primer on bare surfaces but keep reading rave reviews about epoxy. But this 72 hour curing windows kind of blows!
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Old 01-16-2011, 09:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orangejuiced86
Also, this is my first time using epoxy. I only used it becAuse the car I'm doing had a new roof and I stripped that part down to metal. I've always used etch primer on bare surfaces but keep reading rave reviews about epoxy. But this 72 hour curing windows kind of blows!
You may try using other brands of epoxy I have been using the PPG DP but I am looking the SPI I have no problem with the PPG other then cost I sure there are a lot of guys on here that use the SPI that could tell you more about it I see you said your garage was heated but you need to keep it at or above 58
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Old 01-16-2011, 09:13 PM
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Ya. It's it's mostly about 55 when I'm working. When I spray I'll crank it to about 60-65. Overnight it will go between 45-50.

I'm just gonna let the quarters sit for a few days and then I'll go block then again. I'll probably have to spot prime where these hard lines are after I reblock it.
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Old 01-16-2011, 09:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orangejuiced86
Ya. It's it's mostly about 55 when I'm working. When I spray I'll crank it to about 60-65. Overnight it will go between 45-50.

I'm just gonna let the quarters sit for a few days and then I'll go block then again. I'll probably have to spot prime where these hard lines are after I reblock it.
Yeah most everthing in the line of work goes dormant at 58 degrees you need to be at 65 or higher the lower the temperature the longer it takes to cure
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Old 01-16-2011, 09:26 PM
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I'm confused. Are you saying it won't cure at 50 or just take longer?
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Old 01-16-2011, 09:40 PM
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I am going to suggest you get some heat on the panels. I have cured paint in cool weather with some 200 watt incandescent spot lamps.
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Old 01-16-2011, 09:46 PM
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I'm gonna go out and turn the heat up for the night.

Edit: just went out and turned the heat up. The edges did lift pretty good. Hopefully I can feather these back in a few days.

Last edited by orangejuiced86; 01-16-2011 at 09:55 PM.
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Old 01-16-2011, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanielC
I am going to suggest you get some heat on the panels. I have cured paint in cool weather with some 200 watt incandescent spot lamps.
If I were going to use a heat lamp I would use a inferred lamp it will cure the primer from the inside out not from the out side in this could cause solvent pop
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Old 01-16-2011, 10:03 PM
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Ya, I don't have any heat lamps. Lol. All I have is my infrared style tube heater.
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Old 01-17-2011, 05:58 AM
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First epoxy is not like a 2K primer, you can spray a 2k primer at 40 degrees and next day put in a 70 degree shop and inside of a few hour you can sand it.

Epoxy once the temp or metal temp gets below 60, it just plain goes dormant and if next day put in a 70 degree shop could take days or weeks to get back to normal reactivity.

The best thing you can do is take that infrared and run two 60 minutes cycles, let it cool and you should be back to normal.

Remember infrareds cure different, do not get the panel more then 120 -125 to avoid blistering.
If medium wave that means about 2.5 feet from panel.

Another note, the worse scenario for an epoxy is a cold metal temp and a 70 degree shop, it will skim but the epoxy against the metal will go dormant, always pre-heat the metal before spraying.

One other issue but may not apply as I do not know the structure of the Transtar epoxy but some if goes dormant can create an alcohol and then never cure out, depends how its made but I think most in the auto refinishing probably are made with alcohol but we will know after 2 hours of cooking and then once it cooks down.
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Old 01-17-2011, 07:13 AM
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yikes, the transtar is what i have sitting on the shelf
that makes me go hhmmmmm
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Old 01-17-2011, 07:36 AM
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If this transtar product is this temperamental then they should put HUGE warning labels on it "not for use by a hobbiest" lol.

But on a side note, I had the garage at 60+ last night and I went out there and and lightly sanded the edges with 320. They leveled out and are gone. I hope these don't come back to haunt me.
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