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epoxy primer for dumbies?
I made the mistake of using self etching primer on some rust spots and now the rust is showing thru cuz i thought the primer would seal it but it doesnt as i now know. I want to redo when the weather gets warm im hoping to paint sections at a time strip it, epoxy prime it and paint it. Maybe a fender one day and the door the next or something is this ok to do? And can i get epoxy primer in a rattle can and if so is this ok to do? Ive only painted a motorcycle tank before and it was a few years back when self etch was the thing to use. All i have is a smaller compressor and a harbor frieght touch up gun. So any helpful painting tips and equipment and places to get these materials would be a big help. I actually have 2 cars that need paint but only one has a clear coat i need to strip off.
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I would avoid the etch primer at all cost.. stuff is garbage.. Get rid of it and start over with epoxy..
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Good advice, from both.
Also consider some of the internet listed paint sources. Some are pretty economical.
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Thanks guys that was a big help. I found an epoxy primer called kirker the # was ep611 seems like some good stuff. My question now is this stuff any good and if so do i need to mix anything into it or can i just pour and shoot. I thought the web sight may have said it was a 2 part but im not sure if it comes with the second part or if i buy it seperatly or if it comes premixed. They also had paint but it was for fleet use from what ive been reading here i want a solid color and then clear coat it for durability. When i painted that motorcycle tank years back i used a metalic pearl and it looked awesome until i put clear on it orange peeled on me in some spots. What is the trick to get clear not to orange peel? Keep in mind i used the harbor freight touch up gun for all 3 steps.
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tinman , The Kirker is a 2 part epoxy with a 1:1 mix. I use it and am very pleased with it . It sands real well also if needed. Smartshopper has a web sight and sell on ebay ,the ebay deal is a good one you will get 2 gal sprayable delivered to your door for about $86.00 . Like everything else you will hear good and bad opinions but you know what they say about opinions.. It works for me and I know a lot of others that use it and pleased with it .
Ok now for the other gang to come running. No I don't work there , Just a satisfied customer .. Take Care Earl www.ranchero65.com |
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Thank you Earl I thought i read on here that some of the guys use it and were happy with it. I found it on another sight and the price is pretty good. They said you dont have to sand it so im hoping to cheat that step. Now i just need to find a good b/c and c/c. Is it in my best interest to use a gravity gun? If so is there an inexpensive brand that works pretty good? Like i said before i never really painted before so im trying to read up and get my crash course in body work 101.
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Tin, you need to decide what you want this primer to accomplish. If it is ONLY to cover up some bare metal and get paint on it, perfect, epoxy it and paint over it without sanding. But if you want to "surface" or "smooth" out the area you need to sand it prior to painting.
The great benifit of the epoxy and being non sanding is using it as a sealer where it is not expected to make a change in the texture of the surface. This is used when the surface has already been "leveled" with a surfacing primer like a Urethane. It has been applied and then blocked or sanded smooth filling imperfections. THEN the epoxy is sprayed over the area to give a base for the paint. OR if you had something like a frame where you sand blast it and then epoxy prime it and paint it without the need for the labor intensive sanding a frame requires. THAT is where epoxy REALLY works well. But if you have some rust spots (I hope they are not coming in from the rear) or other spots where they will need to be "surfaced" the epoxy may not be your thing. OR at the very least you WILL need to sand it on those spots. Brian |
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I would definately start with epoxy. It is nice that you don't have to sand it, but the real advantage to it is that it seals the metal. Within the recoat window, you can apply any filler that is needed, or a high build primer. After all other work is done, epoxy can be used as a sealer before the base. That epoxy can be painted over, within the recoat window, without sanding, providing that it sprayed smooth enough.
If you are just looking at it as a primer that you don't have to sand, you will probably find that there is a lot more work ahead of you than you think. Aaron |
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Bar Rust epoxy question
I had the floors in and under my car sandblasted and sprayed with Glidden Bar Rust epoxy.The stuff is cheap ,$50 a gallon.I tried POR and it bubbled,found it didn't hold that well and was easily scratched off,applied to instructions.The Bar Rust seems to be hard to strip off if I try to. I have a gallon of it and wondering if I should use it as a primer as I strip the car? Anyone ever use this epoxy? Thanks Cisco
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Cisco.... You posted the same question on another thread. It was answered there. Only post the question one time, and it will be answered as soon as someone has an answer.
Aaron |
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