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Epoxy Primer Question

80K views 48 replies 20 participants last post by  white72gs455 
#1 ·
I am looking for an epoxy primer that has good adhesion properties without using an etch base first. I think I have read that Dupont has a good epoxy primer for bare metal.

-Does anyone have experience with this product over bare metal?
-How does it spray?
-Does it have good adhesion like the DPs of years back?
-Is it better than the DPs of today?
- Does Nason have a good adhering epoxy primer?
-Where can I get tech articles for Dupont epoxies?

Thanks in advance for the help.
 
#2 ·
Hi Ron,
I've tried several epoxies over the years, and I have to say, the "big boys" just ain't got their crap together!

Southern Polyurethanes has the absolute best epoxy primer I've used. It sprays excellent, adhesion is great, it sands very well, and has exceeded the top brands salt spray tests by some 1000+ hours. It's an impressive product!!!

This will take you to their website and you will find online tech sheets link on the left column.
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/product_page.htm

Randy Ferguson
Metalshaping & Kustom Paint
www.metalmeet.com
 
#3 ·
I've had very good experience with the line of PPG epoxy primers. They spray well and are pretty tough too.

Centerline
 
#7 · (Edited)
Randy Ferguson said:
CL,
The old DP primers were good, but they have gone to crap!! They are experiencing bad adhesion problems now. So bad that they are requiring use of an etch primer (wash primer) prior to applying epoxy. Not a good sign!!

Randy
Interesting. My jobber hasn't mentioned anything about this. Did they mention any particular primers or are all the epoxy primers from PPG suspect? I also find it curious that I haven't seen this mentioned on any of the painting boards.

Centerline
 
#9 ·
Well, I'll let you know about the Southern Poly's epoxy. I just ordered a gallon today. I hope it gets here in the 3 days they said it will. I need it for this weekend. Time to prime. In Minnesota, ya gotta go when the weather lets ya! Back to stripping the old paint---IE--many..many layers including the old DP from about 8-10 years ago. Yes that stuff did stick by the way. Any recommendations on spraying and gun set up. I will probably use my conventional set up. I have HVLP (new to me) but probably not for the filler.

One last thought here. I have found that a brown scotchbrite (coarse) disc on a 7" grinder at about 2500 rpm works great!!!! The old primer & paint strips in a controlled manner, you can control the amount taken easily. I start feathering and use a blending motion and walla. Before you know it a section is done. There is very little heat if any at all generated. It only takes light pressure and the finish is fairly smooth. I am not sure of the exact micro finish, but I would guess it in the 40 - 50ish range. It looks like about 6-10 discs will do most of my 49 Chevy. Luv those 3M reps with free samples.:thumbup:
 
#10 ·
Epoxy?

If you're looking for a non-epoxy primer that has held-up on a Stock Car I painted 6-years ago (and has been left outside all smashed-up for the last 5)...

My jobber used to carry Benjamin Moore "Implement" paints and primers in addition to the DuPonts I always shot. I used the grey implement primer (like the stuff farmers would use) on frame and interior of the stock car, and used DuPont (don't remember which model at the time, but I know it wasn't Prime&Sand) on the sheetmetal.

I don't know if BM still sells that line of Implement primer, but it sprayed well, dried well, but was almost rubbery after dried (absolutely SUCKED to try and sand any runs).

Now, 5-years later, the twisted-up frame, engine-compartment, and interior look like I just sprayed it, and the DuPont sheetmetal actually has rust-holes!

-Kustomizer
 
#11 ·
Kirker

I've been using the Kirker brand of epoxy primer. Its cheap and it sands pretty well also. I didn't even use any high build. Just the epoxy and then block sand. The cost, 67.50 for 2 sprayable gallons of product with the epoxy and activator (reducer).....JMHO...GlennK
 
#12 ·
i got some ppg phillips industrial epoxy to try out, the local ppg dealer suggested it over the dplf....so i'm gonna give it a try shortly (once the panels are ready). Was told that it'll weather better as well as it's somewhat gloss

i'll let you guys know how it turns out

do all epoxy's hold up well to weather, i've read the dplf doesn't need to be topcoated, but wondering if this will be somewhat porus or something
 
#13 ·
Epoxy Topcoat

Usually the topcoats are recommended over the epoxy primers because topcoats have UV-inhibitors in them, while the epoxy does not. I don't think it's a requirement to cover ANY of the epoxy primers, however be prepared for chalking or discoloration if you don't.

BTW, when I took my refresher course for Dupont Chroma-Refinisher a year ago, the instructor couldn't speak highly enough about the new Dupont Epoxy primers. However, I never find the Environmentally-friendly paints as bullet-proof as the killers, and I've yet to use them (I have so-many gallons of POR15 that I'll probably never use it all!).

-Kustomizer
 
#16 ·
To Cameo

I posted my response in a thread titled SPI Epoxy Primer Opinion.
AWESOME stuff so far. Sprays like paint, covers well, seems to stick like glue and the finish is smoooth and semi glossy. Like I have posted, the blitz black fans gotta look at this stuff. Outside temp was about 72-75 and went down to upper 60s a few hours later and down to upper 50s at night. The day before it was in the upper 80s raining and humid - Minnesota ya know. I have not sanded it as of yet, maybe tomorrow. I was around 30lbs psi with a conventional gun trigger pulled. It reminds me of some of the marine resin based products I have used, almost like a heavy bodied LPU at first glance. I cannot comment on how it holds up as that would take more time. At this time, I recommend this product without hesitation. I am not a professional, but of all the primers I have sprayed, this was the most user friendly. The mix is 1 to 1, easy! When I first opened the can, I had to mix the heavy solids from the bottom for a couple of minutes. After that mixing was a piece of cake. They also send you a tech manual on how to use of all their products as well as painting tips. The product arrived at my door in 3 days like they said. This is the stuff for me in future projects. I just wish everything worked out this well. By the way, a tad over a hundred bucks for 2 gallons of product!!!!
 
#17 ·
i am a big fan of souther poly's products. in my shop we strictly use only their primers and clears and find them to work great. i have used the epoxy primer and found it to be comparable to the top brands but the only thing i didn't like was that those solids in the bottom of the can you talked about we a little on the gritty side so when i sprayed it and it dried, if you look across the surface there would be thousands of small specks in it. if you are spraying a 2k surfacer over it then this doesn't matter but you could never use it as a sealer without having to sand it first to smooth it out. i was curious if you had the same results??? i also have this problem with the regular and high build urethane primers but they always get sanded. thier turbo primer doesn't have this problem, it spays wet and slick.
 
#18 ·
I went and looked at my car very carefully. I do have some small particles here and there, but for the most part, the finish is very level and smooth. From the DP I used to spray, it has a higher gloss and seems to be more of a resin base than the PPG. In my case it does not matter either way as I sand everything prior to finish. Just a habit or maybe saving grace for me.
 
#20 ·
Engine bay paint

Need to do some touch-up painting in the engine bay on my Mercury and the posts seem to really favor the Southern Poly Products paint. Could someone give me their web site address so I could see if maybe they have a dealer near here or are they a mail-order only? Also, do they sell the finish coats too?
Tks, Charlie
 
#21 ·
hi, the web address is www.southernpolyurethanes.com. you probably wont find a local dealer. you will need to goto www.bakerpbe.com. that is the main distribution warehouse. get the phone # off the site and give them a call and tell them what you need. be sure to use the part #'s. they usually ship the same day and i could be wrong but i believe the more you order the more they discount the shipping and even if they dont the shipping really isn't bad at all.
 
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