I am looking for an epoxy primer that has good adhesion properties without using an etch base first. I think I have read that Dupont has a good epoxy primer for bare metal.

-Does anyone have experience with this product over bare metal?
-How does it spray?
-Does it have good adhesion like the DPs of years back?
-Is it better than the DPs of today?
- Does Nason have a good adhering epoxy primer?
-Where can I get tech articles for Dupont epoxies?

Thanks in advance for the help.

Hi Ron,
I've tried several epoxies over the years, and I have to say, the "big boys" just ain't got their crap together!

Southern Polyurethanes has the absolute best epoxy primer I've used. It sprays excellent, adhesion is great, it sands very well, and has exceeded the top brands salt spray tests by some 1000+ hours. It's an impressive product!!!

This will take you to their website and you will find online tech sheets link on the left column.
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/product_page.htm

Randy Ferguson
Metalshaping & Kustom Paint
www.metalmeet.com

I've had very good experience with the line of PPG epoxy primers. They spray well and are pretty tough too.

Centerline

CL,
The old DP primers were good, but they have gone to crap!! They are experiencing bad adhesion problems now. So bad that they are requiring use of an etch primer (wash primer) prior to applying epoxy. Not a good sign!!

Randy

i got the spec sheet on the dp90lf and it says it works without an etch primer

when did they go bad?

A couple pages back I posted what a PPG jobber stated about the tech sheets. Just make sure its the latest one.

Interesting. My jobber hasn't mentioned anything about this. Did they mention any particular primers or are all the epoxy primers from PPG suspect? I also find it curious that I haven't seen this mentioned on any of the painting boards.

Centerline

The old stuff is just DP. The new is DPLF - lead free. Better for the environment and all that. I've heard a couple of complaints but most people seem to still be happy with it.

Well, I'll let you know about the Southern Poly's epoxy. I just ordered a gallon today. I hope it gets here in the 3 days they said it will. I need it for this weekend. Time to prime. In Minnesota, ya gotta go when the weather lets ya! Back to stripping the old paint---IE--many..many layers including the old DP from about 8-10 years ago. Yes that stuff did stick by the way. Any recommendations on spraying and gun set up. I will probably use my conventional set up. I have HVLP (new to me) but probably not for the filler.

One last thought here. I have found that a brown scotchbrite (coarse) disc on a 7" grinder at about 2500 rpm works great!!!! The old primer & paint strips in a controlled manner, you can control the amount taken easily. I start feathering and use a blending motion and walla. Before you know it a section is done. There is very little heat if any at all generated. It only takes light pressure and the finish is fairly smooth. I am not sure of the exact micro finish, but I would guess it in the 40 - 50ish range. It looks like about 6-10 discs will do most of my 49 Chevy. Luv those 3M reps with free samples.

If you're looking for a non-epoxy primer that has held-up on a Stock Car I painted 6-years ago (and has been left outside all smashed-up for the last 5)...

My jobber used to carry Benjamin Moore "Implement" paints and primers in addition to the DuPonts I always shot. I used the grey implement primer (like the stuff farmers would use) on frame and interior of the stock car, and used DuPont (don't remember which model at the time, but I know it wasn't Prime&Sand) on the sheetmetal.

I don't know if BM still sells that line of Implement primer, but it sprayed well, dried well, but was almost rubbery after dried (absolutely SUCKED to try and sand any runs).

Now, 5-years later, the twisted-up frame, engine-compartment, and interior look like I just sprayed it, and the DuPont sheetmetal actually has rust-holes!

-Kustomizer

I've been using the Kirker brand of epoxy primer. Its cheap and it sands pretty well also. I didn't even use any high build. Just the epoxy and then block sand. The cost, 67.50 for 2 sprayable gallons of product with the epoxy and activator (reducer).....JMHO...GlennK

i got some ppg phillips industrial epoxy to try out, the local ppg dealer suggested it over the dplf....so i'm gonna give it a try shortly (once the panels are ready). Was told that it'll weather better as well as it's somewhat gloss

i'll let you guys know how it turns out

do all epoxy's hold up well to weather, i've read the dplf doesn't need to be topcoated, but wondering if this will be somewhat porus or something

Usually the topcoats are recommended over the epoxy primers because topcoats have UV-inhibitors in them, while the epoxy does not. I don't think it's a requirement to cover ANY of the epoxy primers, however be prepared for chalking or discoloration if you don't.

BTW, when I took my refresher course for Dupont Chroma-Refinisher a year ago, the instructor couldn't speak highly enough about the new Dupont Epoxy primers. However, I never find the Environmentally-friendly paints as bullet-proof as the killers, and I've yet to use them (I have so-many gallons of POR15 that I'll probably never use it all!).

-Kustomizer

To RON M.
Let us know how your southern epoxy worked. Also, give us the specs as to outside temp, gun setup, compressor psi etc. Let us know how smooth the primer went on and how easy the sanding is. Thanks, Cameo

We used the DP's and the DPLF's and still use them. Using an Etch Primer is just another way to insure your work & is basically painless to do.