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Old 06-11-2013, 05:39 AM
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Epoxy primer questions

I'm going to try my hand at paint on the new project. Need a recommendation for a primer that can go over bare metal and sit for a while before actual body work begins.

I've read that SPI is fantastic. Does it make sense to grab a gallon of their epoxy primer and start there?

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Old 06-11-2013, 05:42 AM
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yes. then you can do your filler work over it as well.
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Old 06-11-2013, 06:56 AM
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Yes X2 on Lizer"s post. When you apply an Epoxy primer, make sure that the metal or surface that you are going to apply it on is roughed up with 80 grit sand paper. Make sure it is clean and rust free, apply your Epoxy primer, usually 2 coats. Read your tech sheets to make sure that proper flash times have been met before applying filler. If you are planning on going the SPI route, they recommend waiting a minimum of 4 hours before applying filler if only one coat of Epoxy has been applied...if you apply 2 coats, wait an additional 8 to 12 hours before applying filler. You have a 7 day window to apply filler without sanding SPI Epoxy primer...not to worry, if you go over the 7 day window, the primer sand extremely well for an Epoxy primer.

Hope this helps.

Ray
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Old 06-11-2013, 11:18 AM
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If I cross the 7 day window, does it just need to be scuffed with say 120 grit?
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Old 06-11-2013, 11:23 AM
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I just checked my tech sheets and it doesn't recommend a grit...but if 80 grit is coarse enough to rough up metal, 120 grit should be coarse enough for filler...If you like i can contact BarryK and get an answer from him.

Ray
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Old 06-11-2013, 02:20 PM
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I put poly filler over epoxy scuffed with 180-220. Seeing as it's still on 4 years later on a [still] unpainted 67 Mustang, take your pic on the grit. I don't like to use too aggressive of a grit because I don't want to actually sand away the epoxy, just scuff. I scuff with red scotchbrite if I'm just priming 2k over it.

When I'm too aggressive with grit on this epoxy is when I get rust-through.
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Old 06-13-2013, 08:07 AM
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Here's a tip: Put 3 coats of SPI epoxy on, that 3rd coat will give you more build and then even after a bit of too aggressive scuffing there will remain adequate film for proper protection.
No matter what the paint is, you sand through it and the bare metal is exposed - rust will form.

Best bet after the "window" is to scuff and shoot a reduced seal coat of epoxy, that way you assure yourself of getting the best adhesion.


No body needs to call Barry or any of the crew at SPI for you, Barrys cell is a public number and he takes all calls, even when you aren't using his product and just need some Help!

Barryk cell 7 days a week 404) 307-9740
SPI- mon-fri. (706) 781-2220
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Old 06-13-2013, 12:39 PM
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SPI service and products are the best
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Old 06-14-2013, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangsal View Post
If I cross the 7 day window, does it just need to be scuffed with say 120 grit?
You could scuff with a maroon scotchbrite pad and shoot a fresh seal coat of reduced epoxy.
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Old 06-28-2013, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangsal View Post
If I cross the 7 day window, does it just need to be scuffed with say 120 grit?
heres what I do....
2-3 wet coats over bare metal let it cure.... guide coat then block with 180 do your filler work where needed and spray two more coats let cure...guide coat and block with 180 again do your finishing filler work with EZ sand poly putty sanding the putty with 180 also then 2-3 wet coats of epoxy,guidecoat and wet block with 320 then 400 ..You dont need any other primers just SPI epoxy....
This proceedure will not work with ALL epoxy primers SPI is sandable and buildable so it works like a champ...I always sand window or not
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Old 06-28-2013, 08:17 AM
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Thanks all... Just ordered Primer, Activator and their waterborne wax and grease remover. I have to say... I'm excited about this.
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Old 06-28-2013, 01:56 PM
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well lets get some pics posted then.....
My brother lives in Jersey ....
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Old 06-28-2013, 09:44 PM
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Sorry, but I just think it's bad advice to suggest the notion of use epoxy as a building primer to an amateur. If you sand it too much, you will get rust through. It doesn't build like the 2k, takes more work to get to build as much, doesn't sand as nice as the 2k, and is more expensive than the 2k. The 2k doesn't require induction, isn't so temperature finicky, and can be sanded sooner. Not to mention when you're trying to pile it on real thick and wet to make it build you're more prone to run it. Not as much of an issue with 2k. Though I actually did run 2k a few days ago. I had to laugh. I think that was a new low; I didn't know it was even possible. Ok, I did have some reducer in there.
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Old 07-22-2013, 05:38 AM
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Its always best to epoxy the bare metal 2-3 coats....
do your body filler work and epoxy again 2-3 coats (an epoxy sandwich)
after that guide coat and hand block, chances are you wont need any more filling but if you do its ok to use a 2k...but when your ready to paint use epoxy as a sealer its more chip resistant....
Something I do that not a lot of others do is use the EZ sand finishing putty in place of 2k because I can sand it in a few minutes and put it exactly where its needed....no over spray ,no taping, no waiting for it to cure....so after I sand my filler to 180 i'll spread the putty insted of using 2k primer, then sand the putty with 180 and 320, if I've done a good enough job the epoxy does all the minor filling thats left.
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Old 07-22-2013, 06:24 AM
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i use spi epoxy as a build primer . i can do anything with it i could do with 2k urethane primer. i shoot with a 2.3 gun and block within 24 hrs. i have no 2k urethane primer in the shop and have not for years.
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