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Epoxy vinyl dash edges?
I've read a lot on here but have not seen this answered. I read elsewhere that you should epoxy the vinyl on the underside of the dash and in recesses, like the ashtray, etc. I've never seen that mentioned here and I know some of you are professionals so I wanted to get your opinions. I actually recovered my dash last year and it didn't turn out horrible but I'm not completely happy with it and the glue I used was not the better DAP that I have now. So! I'm redoing it.
Here is where I read about the epoxy (scroll down to the "Applying the Covering" part): http://www.vtr.org/maintain/dash-recovering.shtml It all seems pretty reasonable to me, but I thought I get some other opinions on that part. |
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DAP Weldwood HHR (high heat resistant) top and trim contact adhesive, when properly applied, will be all you should need. Make sure that whatever you spray the glue on is as clean as you can get it. The glue needs to be applied to the back of the vinyl and whatever you are gluing it to and allowed to dry. If it gets too dry and won't bond, you can re-activate it with another coat. Aerosols do not work as well as bulk packaged spray grade adhesive. If you don't have spraying equipment, you can still use spray grade contact adhesive by brushing or rolling it on.
BTW, whoever wrote that article doesn't do it for a living. There shouldn't be any need for "5 minute epoxy" on the back of the dash, and no professional cuts out the holes on anything before gluing down the vinyl and after the glue has set up. Even large openings that have to be glued on the back of the dash turn out better when you wait to do the back side until the front is more cured. If your dash is in good shape, and you just don't like the color, the best course of action that provides the best results, the lowest cost is to re-color the dash.
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__________________________________ No one lives forever, the trick is creating something that will. __________________________________ |
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Thanks Dan, I do have a gallon of DAP, that I've seen in the other posts (http://www.yourautotrim.com/noname37.html). So, I'll just use that then. I tried to use a roller last time, I'm going to pick up another cheap spray gun this time!
Do you deviate from the instructions on the can at all? Like in how long you wait for it to tack, how many coats you apply before you put the material to it, etc.? I realize there are variables with weather at play, but just in general. Also, I've read about "scuffing" the foam before gluing, what do you use for that, just some sand paper real lightly? Btw, my dash is far from being able to just recolor. I'm confident I can get this, just want to get all my facts straight beforehand. |
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The only deviation in the amount of time you let the glue dry is based on how much humidity is in the air. The higher the humidity the longer the glue will take to dry completely.
If you're covering the dash with closed cell foam, both sides of the foam need to be scuffed so the glue can adhere to the foam better. You can do this with a scotchbrite pad, a DA sander, a fine wire brush, or sandpaper. The idea is just to take the gloss off the surfaces, so you don't really need to bear down too hard. A spray gun is great, and a lot easier, especially for recessed areas, but a brush will work fine too. The only thing you have to do is get complete coverage, so if that happens in one coat, one coat is all you need. Tons of extra glue does not help, and is actually bad. Good luck with your project.
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__________________________________ No one lives forever, the trick is creating something that will. __________________________________ |
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