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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 06-18-2013, 07:51 PM
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Used the vice grips, no issue, but now my next issue lol, last time I did this the end of the puller galled the threads in the crank and that was a btch to correct, so now I'm trying to figure out what to do to avoid that, I can't reinstall the crank bolt as its to long for my puller to bolt up to the balancer....

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 06-18-2013, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eric32 View Post
Just to throw my 2 cents in here. My 350 sits in a s10 so room at the bottom is tight and I have done three cam swaps and I never had to drop my oil pan at all even though it has a little room to drop down a hair but I just get everything off and pull the cover off with the pain tight as can be and clean everything up good and I put the timing cover gasket on then put indian head on the gasket then put the right stuff gasket maker on the bottom of the cover and I could get it back on no problem and then just took my finger and wiped the excess gasket maker stuff off the bottom in a gentle sweep and makes a nice smooth gasket after it cures and never had a problem. As far as keeping the flywheel from moving I just took some decent rope and put it through a hole through the flywheel and tied it around the frame close to it and did a nice tight not and got the balancer bolt and pulley on and torqued it down then cut the rope and took it from there. That was my way of doing it and fbirds way is a good way a lot of people use as well.
Eric
Thanks Eric, do you use a new front seal at the timing cover or just gasket maker and call it good?
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:00 PM
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And this is what I'm afraid of galing the threads. Now this balancer is brand new. So maybe it will come off alot easier then the last one I did. But still concerned tightening this into the crank snout
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:17 PM
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OK, so nope, tried it anyways, just starts chewing up the threads on the snout, stopped, cleaned up threads before I really hurt anything, but now I'm stuck...
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Old 06-18-2013, 09:44 PM
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Princess auto tommorow......they have them for $20.
So hopefully I can get it apart tommorow night back running for Thursday.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 06-19-2013, 12:49 AM
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Just put a large nut between it and the crank snout for a quick fix to save the threads.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 06-19-2013, 02:24 AM
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Originally Posted by bygddy View Post
And this is what I'm afraid of galing the threads. Now this balancer is brand new. So maybe it will come off alot easier then the last one I did. But still concerned tightening this into the crank snout
I use a thick washer and the tip rides the washer
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Old 06-19-2013, 04:36 AM
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The center of the balancer is the same size as the crank bolt...anything bigger and I'm just pushing against the balancer and going nowhere.....hmmm
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Old 06-19-2013, 08:06 AM
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Hello since my balancer was new and did not have any groove on the balancer I just used the same crank seal since it was new as well. As far as your balancer puller I don't know how that thing is eating up your threads as mine is similar but cheaper made but it does not go into the crank threads itself just spins at the end of the snout but it never touched any threads and mine was off several times. My piece ended up getting worn out so I had to buy a new one. Mine was brass looking so it had to be somewhat softer then maybe a good quality one. I like the advice on here by using a washer or a nut for it to rid up against and in the future I am going to try it that way in order to protect everything.
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Old 06-19-2013, 08:14 AM
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Looking at your puller there should be a piece that goes on the end for the puller to pull on and protect your crank snout unless its different then my cheapy one that I got at a autopart store for like 15 bucks. It came with a brass piece that goes on the end of the puller and it is a gold color so it had to be brass as it got worn out after using like 5 times and I had to get a new one. That looks like a solid piece and that would be harder then the one I used and that could eat at the end of the snout but I don't know for sure as I have only used the one I got. I was worried about my threads too and I like the idea of using some washers for future use.
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Old 06-19-2013, 09:06 AM
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Yah, they were out if stock on the new ones, I may just put a bolt that's too small in the center to thread, but stops at the head, that way I have something there to run it against.....
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Old 06-19-2013, 10:05 AM
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yeah that is a good idea as I might get a regular size bolt head to screw into the crank and let it dig into it so as not to dig into the cranks itself and the one who posted that is a genius as I never thought of that before. Mine never did do anything to my crank or threads but it was not a hardend piece cause it was brass color and after 5 times using it was done and I had to buy a new one. That is what you get with cheap stuff but I don't work on stuff for a living so I don't always need high dollar stuff.
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Old 06-19-2013, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by eric32 View Post
yeah that is a good idea as I might get a regular size bolt head to screw into the crank and let it dig into it so as not to dig into the cranks itself and the one who posted that is a genius as I never thought of that before. Mine never did do anything to my crank or threads but it was not a hardend piece cause it was brass color and after 5 times using it was done and I had to buy a new one. That is what you get with cheap stuff but I don't work on stuff for a living so I don't always need high dollar stuff.
Yah, I bought a removal tool today, and an installer that should be here tommorow. So hopefully I can get the cover on tonight. My only concern now is getting it to seal, loosening the pan bolts looks like its a nightmare.....longtubes in an S10 seems like a terrible idea lol. You actually can't get the oil filter off without moving the headers. So next week im going to order a filter remote. Yah, its amazing how tight everything is with longtubes, even more so that nothing hits or rattles at all.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 06-19-2013, 08:36 PM
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I read an article where a dude was having erratic timing. It was caused by either a cheesy nylon thrust button or a worn out aluminum one. As the cam would walk around, the cam gear altered the distributor gear quite a bit.
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Old 06-19-2013, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Silver Surfer View Post
I read an article where a dude was having erratic timing. It was caused by either a cheesy nylon thrust button or a worn out aluminum one. As the cam would walk around, the cam gear altered the distributor gear quite a bit.
Actually when I got it all apart tonight I can see what might cause eratic timing, everything was together fine, no unusual wear or extra shiny parts. But that dogbone between the cam and crank, well you could move the crank a full tooth and a bit before it would start to move the cam, the amount of movement was ridiculous. So everything went back together well, didn't use a seal at the bottom of the timing cover, used copious amounts of ultra black lol, made a lovely seal around the outer edge as well, so will see if it leaks tommorow night. Wish me luck. Balancer installer tool should arrive tommorow, will get it buttoned back up tommorow night then saterday will bring it to work, replace all the u-joints to try and cure a shudder on accel. Might throw on a pair of 2 chambers I have to give it some more "presense" lol. Then a big show an hour and a half drive away on Sunday.....that's my story.
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