[Dawger]

I have been using Evercoat finish sand high speed polyester primer surfacer on my charger. I have primered 3/4 of the car. The problem i am having is that there two small spots where the primer hasnt hardened. they were primed at different times. one is on the cowel the other is on the roof-sail panel. I believe that there is body led in both areas. Is this a common problem with this primer and how do I prevent this from happening.
Any input would be greatly appreciated
Thanks Dawger

[Kevin45]

It should not be a common spot with the primer. Also you state that you believe there is lead in those areas. Has it been taken down to the bare metal in those two spots or have you put something else over it before you primed. Need a little more info before making a call.

Kevin

[Dawger]

Kevin
I believe that I may have sanded down to the led in those areas as i have been block sanding until the highs appear and the lows dissapear.(trying to get straighter than factory) The spots are rather small (1-2 square inches) and irregulary shaped (the shape of Michigan) I have used this same stuff on three other cars and never had anv problems.

[Kevin45]

You can rule out the primer. You will have to remove what primer is in those areas and try and neutralize whatever is there. It sounds like the lead was not properly cleaned before and is contaminated. Did you ever notice any previous problems in those areas? Try cleaning it exceptionally well and spray again.

Kevin

[Dawger]

that is what i figured I am working out doors and it has been raining so I havent been messing with it.Kind of a bummer though when everything starts looking good ans straight and you have to go back a step.Not bad for wet sanding though.
thanks for the replies Dawger

[Blowing on Flames]

WOW... Spray poly will harden over lead any day of the week. Is it hard in other areas of the same application??? And what about the rain and wet sanding.....NO NO NO.... Poly is very porous. It will retain that moisture for quite some time. Once painted, it could let go....Be careful.

[Dawger]

BoF
The area that is soft ts about 1 square inch out of a full cup. the second time it happened I had allready primed the area previous with good results. It appeared after I blocked it out ans applied a second coat.
As far as the wet sanding goes me and a friend painted four cars with this stuff this year. Each was wet sanded the day before being painted with no ill efects. Maybe I was lucky. The can also says sand wet or dry ?
Next time I make it to town I will ask the guy at the paint store about this problem.

Thanks again Dawger

[F1 Owner]

Hey Dawger ,
I've used Evercoat primer for years ,and the only thing I can think of is a possible contamination of the primer. You stated that the uncured spots were only small ones ,and that there were only 2 .
The first thought I had was a chunk of unmixed primer had went through the gun . The second was possibly oil contamination either from the compressor ,or ,the air hose .Are you using a screw on type filter at the GUN ? You'ld be surprised at the crap that comes out of an air hose ,and how big the pieces are that can make their way through a tiny orifice in a paint gun .
I have never had problems with Evercoat primers over lead ,as long as the metal is clean and not contaminated . As I stated in a different post , I would NEVER use Featherfill Primer over bare metal ,without using an epoxy primer under it . If you are using Slick Sand ,however ,that is another matter .Slick Sand states right on the label ,that it should NEVER be used over acid type primers (ie, Du Pont Etching Primer etc.) You can use Slick Sand on bare metal but they recommend sanding the metal with nothing finer than #80 grit sandpaper .And ,finally ,Featherfill CANNOT be sanded wet ,HOWEVER ,Slick Sand can ,and I do it all the time !!! Hope this helps , Rick

[Dawger]

hello all
I've had Perfect painting weather ( mid 70's) so i decided to get some stuff done. I painted some on the 56 engine bay and decided to give the Charger another shot. I sanded the primer off the soft areas washed it down with thinner and shot it again. Same dam problem. This time the spots are bigger because I exposed more led. The led seems to be the problem. Next i think I'll try some cheap spray can primer over the areas first then top with the evercoat. If someone has a better sugestion please reply.
P.S. at least the chevy is looking good.

Thanks again Dawger

[Dawger]

I just recieved a reply from evercoat and they say that there should be no problem spraying over led . They sugested that i sand down the led and apply a glazing putty over it.
I'll try the spray can primer first if that does'nt work i guess i'm sanding off the led.

[daimon1054]

Who put on the lead? Was it new stuff? I can only think that the lead was contaminated had say silicon or something, then was melted in when applied. If it were me I would remove the lead and start over, even if you get something to dry over it I don't think it is going to stick very well. Sound like work but would you rather do it now or once the car is all done?

Even roughing the area up and putting filler over that would worry me, if it is oil or silicone the filler will lift before long.

[Dawger]

Diamond
The filler is all factory. It's where the A pillar meets the cowl and on the top where it meets the sail panel. the paint was good in these areas before I started messing with it . It was just a bit wavy where the factory finished it. All I wanted to do was smooth it up a bit. I'm afraid that if I remove all the led from these seams I will lose some strength in the body.(440 4-speed in a unibody) There is allready some distortion in the rear quarters that appears to be from body flex.
Thanks again Dawger

[whizzer24]

i had this problem on a 57 chevy so i called the paint store they told me to wipe it out with vinegar and prime again and it worked.

[F1 Owner]

Dawger ,
There is NO reason to remove the FACTORY applied leadwork ,unless it is cracked ,or, bubbling which usually means rust under the lead . They leaded those seams ,not for strength as much as for flexibility . Vinegar will do basically the same as metal-prep ,it is an acid , and ,as I said before ,Slick Sand should NOT be applied over acid prepped metal ,or acid based primers . I M O , I would do as Evercoat people suggested , with one exception .... I personally would sand the lead work down SLIGHTLY below the rest of the metal surface using a D A sander with #36 grit paper . THEN apply a skim coat of their brand of polyester glazing putty , OVER the lead to bring the surface level ,THEN apply another coat of the primer . They do make poly putties that are compatible with almost ANY type of metal ,just ask your local jobber what is available . Hope that helps Rick